CLX-VU Build Thread (DBX 160VU ) UPDATE: REV 3
- Thread starter abechap024
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abechap024
Well-known member
supiarmando said:
Yes! Or you can take it from the pad closest to the little "ST" on C16. But it all connects to the same place.
Best,
Abe
Hi all,
I will be stocking meters for this project. The meters will be 1mA FSD with the scale pictured. The pointer will be white and the LEDs will also be white.
Please see attached meter scale. The meter will fit the DIY racked and Collective Cases case.
The meter will cost $33.00AUD each plus postage to your destination.
If you order more than 2 meters the price is $30.00AUD each.
I will be ordering the meters next month. I will post back when they are in stock. PM me if you are interested.
Kind Regards,
Ladislav
I will be stocking meters for this project. The meters will be 1mA FSD with the scale pictured. The pointer will be white and the LEDs will also be white.
Please see attached meter scale. The meter will fit the DIY racked and Collective Cases case.
The meter will cost $33.00AUD each plus postage to your destination.
If you order more than 2 meters the price is $30.00AUD each.
I will be ordering the meters next month. I will post back when they are in stock. PM me if you are interested.
Kind Regards,
Ladislav
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abechap024
Well-known member
Looks nice. Are they the same dimensions as the hairball meters?
RATMNL
Well-known member
Looks really nice. Following closely!
Guys I have another batch of CLX cases coming as well! Should be well stocked for a while then.
abechap024
Well-known member
late said:
As mentioned before, any part that says "TRIM" is exactly that, faithful to the original schematic, used to trim the other parts. Its up to the user themselves if they feel the need to trim any part. Nowadays with more precision parts I haven't ever found the need to "trim" any part, but better to have a space if you need it than not.
Matching cans? Wouldn't hurt. Sometimes the cans have a number on them, and they are the same number in stereo equipment (the old noise reduction units) I haven't personally run any tests.
shot
Well-known member
Hi!
I got my board today and I'm starting to gather BOM to order from Farnell and some local shops.
I already have few 500 uA VU meters here so I would like to use one. Those are cheap chinese from dealextreme - CHECK THE LINK
I'm wondering what resistor should I use for this type of meter?
Since 1mA meter uses 3K3 and 100uA uses 10K, is my assumption correct I should use 6K8 resistor?
Or it is impossible to use 500uA and I should get 1uA or 0.1uA VU meter?
thanks!
Luka
I got my board today and I'm starting to gather BOM to order from Farnell and some local shops.
I already have few 500 uA VU meters here so I would like to use one. Those are cheap chinese from dealextreme - CHECK THE LINK
I'm wondering what resistor should I use for this type of meter?
Since 1mA meter uses 3K3 and 100uA uses 10K, is my assumption correct I should use 6K8 resistor?
Or it is impossible to use 500uA and I should get 1uA or 0.1uA VU meter?
thanks!
Luka
Guys..
I am building a 160VU rev 2 with the original VCAs... I wired up one PCB. What I'm getting at the output is a mild triangle wave (with no input) and nothing happens if I apply any input. More over, if I wiggle the ratio knob between 1.5 and 2 it makes (physically, not on the output) a sizzling sound from the knob as if it were in short circuit or something. And there's a bit of resistor cooking stink from it as well.
I got the 200 VCA which the seller says is for the 160VU. The footprint obviously matched, except for one pin which wasn't present on my VCA modules, so there was nothing to solder into the hole on the PCB. I don't have the PCB here, but it should be either the GND, 112 or COMPH, but probably GND.
Any ideas? Should I abandon all hope and build the THAT version?
I am building a 160VU rev 2 with the original VCAs... I wired up one PCB. What I'm getting at the output is a mild triangle wave (with no input) and nothing happens if I apply any input. More over, if I wiggle the ratio knob between 1.5 and 2 it makes (physically, not on the output) a sizzling sound from the knob as if it were in short circuit or something. And there's a bit of resistor cooking stink from it as well.
I got the 200 VCA which the seller says is for the 160VU. The footprint obviously matched, except for one pin which wasn't present on my VCA modules, so there was nothing to solder into the hole on the PCB. I don't have the PCB here, but it should be either the GND, 112 or COMPH, but probably GND.
Any ideas? Should I abandon all hope and build the THAT version?
usekgb
Well-known member
Have you checked for DC on your ratio pot?
abechap024
Well-known member
baadc0de said:
Thats what you want for the ratio. Double check your wiring, thats were my builds usually get fouled up. (Make sure your using the rev 3 build manual)
Also don't worry about extra holes on the PCB that is fine. enless its something simple like ground then just solder a wire to the mu-metal cover and ground it, but they usually had ground on them.
Did you take note of all the different components you have to install for the 200 series vca?
try bypassing the control voltage, and see if signal is even getting through the vca.
abechap024 said:
Yup, using rev 3 manual (but Rev 2 PCB!).. going to check the wiring again, and see if there's anything funny happening there.. my case has IN / OUT / GR instead of IN / GR / OUT that the manual has so maybe I did something there, I know I was aware of it, but it might have slipped..
I have grounded the 200 can to no effect. Yes, I did use the silkscreen values of resistors that didn't have (T) in parenthesis, and installed the R27 trimmer, Q7 transistor, R28 resistors etc..
I'm not sure how to bypass the CV..
btw, I just saw this: http://www.acsoundstudio.com/DIY/160vu/BOM/2ndREV/Information/PCB_Board.jpg is this also a problem on the REV2 board? If so, I have it rotated the wrong way (same as on silkscreen) so maybe that's why I'm getting triangle wave output?
Thanks for the help guys!
EDIT: having changed the transistor orientation, the output pot now works and the unit passess a weak sine signal. So far so good, off to see if I can up the signal to normal level or if something else is amiss
but my scope died, so I can't test everything else, I'll just have to improvise or wait for a new one..Majestic12
Well-known member
I finished one side of my dual unit today. It's working perfectly on the first power up but I haven't calibrated it precisely yet.
Very nice compresson on kick and snare drums !
Very nice compresson on kick and snare drums !
abechap024
Well-known member
Board Pre order!
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=51031.msg647827#msg647827
Whos in??
THanks!
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=51031.msg647827#msg647827
Whos in??
THanks!
shot
Well-known member
Hi!
I've started shopping parts for my V3 board.
I noticed that BOM file for THAT build on the first page is not the same as BOM included in V3 pdf!
When I bought resistors from the CLX_VU bom THAT CHIP.pdf and stuffed most of them, I noticed that some are missing. Then compared it to clx_manual_rev3.pdf and saw there's a difference. So advice for everyone - make sure you use latest BOM!! And that would be the one included in manual_rev3 document!
Now I have few questions.
1) Some resistor values are unobtainable in my local shops. If I for instance need 23K2 value, is it ok to use two resistors in series (22K1+1K1) or in parallel (2x47K)? I have this issue with values 23K2, 6K04, 5K49, 133K, 22Meg.
Whould there be issues if I do paralleling and serial connecting to achieve required value?
2) What if I use closest obtainable value? For instance if I use 6K19 instead of 6K04, since this 6K19 actually measures 6K13 would that be okay?
3) Also I have weird situation with 4M7 resistor (R52). When reading color code on it, it says it is that value. But when I measure it with my multimeter I get 5M6 value. That is too much off! Should I trust its actually 4M7 and assume my multimeter is acting weird on such high values (it is set to max 20Meg range... can't use lower setting since lower is 2Meg)?
I've started shopping parts for my V3 board.
I noticed that BOM file for THAT build on the first page is not the same as BOM included in V3 pdf!
When I bought resistors from the CLX_VU bom THAT CHIP.pdf and stuffed most of them, I noticed that some are missing. Then compared it to clx_manual_rev3.pdf and saw there's a difference. So advice for everyone - make sure you use latest BOM!! And that would be the one included in manual_rev3 document!
Now I have few questions.
1) Some resistor values are unobtainable in my local shops. If I for instance need 23K2 value, is it ok to use two resistors in series (22K1+1K1) or in parallel (2x47K)? I have this issue with values 23K2, 6K04, 5K49, 133K, 22Meg.
Whould there be issues if I do paralleling and serial connecting to achieve required value?
2) What if I use closest obtainable value? For instance if I use 6K19 instead of 6K04, since this 6K19 actually measures 6K13 would that be okay?
3) Also I have weird situation with 4M7 resistor (R52). When reading color code on it, it says it is that value. But when I measure it with my multimeter I get 5M6 value. That is too much off! Should I trust its actually 4M7 and assume my multimeter is acting weird on such high values (it is set to max 20Meg range... can't use lower setting since lower is 2Meg)?
sr1200
Well-known member
Shot, whats the tolerance of that resistor? Best to stick with 1% (or better in certain circumstances) when you can, less issues with variation, but when you get up there into the Mohms, the swing can get pretty hairy.
