D-AOC PCBs - the building and help Thread

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Haaaa, so I was right. Have you ever thought of doing a DIY Altec in original Altec cases? There was a member here, who designed Altec 436 pcbs, as far as I can remember. Anyway, very nice built!!
regards
Bernd
 
[quote author="bernbrue"]...Have you ever thought of doing a DIY Altec in original Altec cases? ...[/quote]

Often, Bernd, often...
Currently I have 6 unfinished projects hanging around (counting 8 channels of S800 EQs a one)... :sad:

Maybe next year I'm starting with a 43x clone
 
wondeful !!!

from where did you get the case and how did you made the frontpanel?
looks very impressive!

btw. i tested my DAOC yesterday on bass. found out that on hard compression like ~5-10 dB GR the bass sounds like crackling. someone else this behavior?
maybe caused by a fixed attack time?
 
[quote author="maxheadroom"]
from where did you get the case and how did you made the frontpanel?
[/quote]
Case is from Modushop.biz, frontpanel is done by Schäffer/FrontPanelExpress.
 
Possible WARNING

Can any of the gurus validate (and hopefully resolve) my concerns?

Built 2 DOAC - 1st one I can't get my hands on it as me mate is constantly using it for mastering! Now I've finished the 2nd (Kubi advanced version), I've started to confirm my niggling suspicions re. the power supply caps.
PCB ident is for 400V rating - BOM is for 350V and if like me, any UK builds using 350V may have a problem.
Musikding power transformer has 250V HT secondary. Doing the basic math 250 x 1.414 = 353Volts :sad: This is before taking into account UK mains - mine measures a rock steady 240V :!: Accounting for this increase, DC after rectifier is calculated at 369V :shock:
While valves are warming up - no current is drawn, and I measured 370V after the rectifier. This stayed this high for 15 - 20 seconds until the valves conduct :!:
Is there an easy fix for this (inclusion of a power resistor somewhere) or do I need to take out the PCB and upgrade the caps to 400/450V rating
:roll: Will this be the case for all 12 HT caps or just the 3 pre-regulator?
Will do a bit more measuring and observation before reporting back :shock:
 
Got some questions on the d-oac (mine is labeled wrong on the frontpanel d-aoc btw..)
I use it for mastering and love it for that, it's clean and glue's things together in a nice way (edcor trafo's) but there are some practical things that i'd like to change, i allready did the cap mod which makes it more useable and sounds even a bit better now the original design.

First of all, the meters are drifting away from 0 after some time (an hour or so) because the unit gets warm (ofcourse) and so it needs adjustments on the metertrim so i want to take that to the frontpanel with a potmeter (it's racked up ofcourse).
The thing is, the multiturn trimmer is 1m and i don't think a regular potmeter will be precise enough so i was thinking of paralleling/serial it with the 1m trimmer on board to get a small range for zero adjust.
Has anybody done that yet and how did you do it?

I'd also like to make the threshold pots into stepped switches (24 steps elma) so that it's easier to set L/R at the same value, in and outputs are allready stepped (12 steps) and this works great.
What value's would you choose to make the range decently working, i don't need a really wide range, just a couple of DB will do the job for me.
Has anybody done that yet?
 
Meter drift:
since it is the same circuit as in the LA2A - this is normal.
as far as I remember the LA2A has a normal pot at the front for adjustment, will work here too.
if you use the neon it could help to use the zener diode instead, but I haven't tested this.

to change the pots to a stepped switch you can use the Log Pot To Switch Excell sheat I posted in the Poor Man thread.
 
Very nice looking
wink.gif


analag
 
Hey Volker,

it appears that your website http://groupdiy.silentarts.net/ is down. I have finally got around to start building the D-AOC's and was looking for the schematics and BOM as linked on page 1 of this thread, no luck though.

Cheers
Michael
 
Junction, I've sent you an EMail! ;D

Got some of the DAOC info stored on PC including pdf schematics & layouts if anyone needs it until the Silent Arts site comes back, just PM me & I'll EMail it out.
 
yes, http://groupdiy.silentarts.net/ is gone.
it is a pain in the *** to edit all this links, but Im working on it.
they are not gone, just "temporally unavailable"
 
Yes same thing here
Can someone send us the volker BOM please , the link to the german bom on first post didnt work anymore .

TY -

Volker and Team : Really a nice design and nice projet for Diy !!!
Congrats for your work


 
flight said:
Yes same thing here
Can someone send us the volker BOM please , the link to the german bom on first post didnt work anymore .

TY -

Volker and Team : Really a nice design and nice projet for Diy !!!
Congrats for your work
Bonjour !!!
If you need farnell france codes, I can send you this...
 
lolo-m said:
If you need farnell france codes, I can send you this...

Would like the Farnell codes as well Lolo? Cheers ;D

BTW Ive got some of the DAOC info stored on PC including pdf schematics & layouts if anyone needs it until the Silent Arts site comes back, just PM me & I'll EMail it out to anyone who needs it
 
Hey Guys, I need some help with the relay boards..................

I've built mine with the 24v relays, and I'm pretty sure I've got all the correct parts in place, but for some reason I can't seem to get it out of bypass...............arrrgh!!!

Is there an overlay somewhere? I'm pretty sure everything is in the correct way round, I've been comparing to most of the build photos on this thread. There was something that Volker posted a while back, but the pic is gone.
I hope I've got my +volts around the right way.

It's my first time using relays, so I'm kinda back to ******* stage............... A no bainer layout would be awesome... Do I need to cut any of the traces?????

BTW I had a bit of a play with the comp without the bypass boards.................Very Nice ;D ME like valves.............
 
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