D-AOC PCBs - the building and help Thread

[[silent:arts]]

 

[diyfanatic]

Hi guys,

i'm interested in the BOM.
if someone can email me this...

Lolo, very interested in your farnell bom.
ça serait super sympa de ta part!

jreakee_at_hotmail.com

thanks!

 

[lolo-m]

Hi guys,

i'm interested in the BOM.
if someone can email me this...

Lolo, very interested in your farnell bom.
ça serait super sympa de ta part!

jreakee_at_hotmail.com

thanks!

e-mailed it to you... Anyway for the others (  please check any mistakes , I don't have a lot of time so ... HELP ME !!! I will update it if there's an error) :
http://pagesperso-orange.fr/NBNS-Studio/D-AOC/DAOCBOM+Farnellcodes.doc
Note : - If you want to make the the kubi advanced version you'll have to take 4 VACTROL, if you want to make the stock version take only 2.
          -  The numbers of each value isn't the number of Farnell codes to order... Be carefull, some item are sold with a minimum quantity !!! 

 

[diyfanatic]

thanks Lolo!
email received...

I need to understand better the Kubi mod...4 vactrol!!! 

I tought it was only 2.

1 on the upper side of the pcb and 1 under (in paralell), and then a switch with the differents leds.
like this:

 

[lolo-m]

thanks Lolo!
email received...

I need to understand better the Kubi mod...4 vactrol!!!   

I tought it was only 2.

1 on the upper side of the pcb and 1 under (in paralell), and then a switch with the differents leds.

You can mount both on the top side of the board (wires are long enough). Just plug one with writing up and the other writing down.

But I still don't understand why the paralleled led (green,blue,red...) are not 2 leds plugged opposite way, like the double Vactrol's leds... Can someone explain me the role of those leds  ??? ??? ??? ?

 

[diyfanatic]

Kubi says that with the second vactrol the comp is more sensitive but with 4?
but what will be the behavior now?
is it worth it and if it's so good why analag and [silent:arts] didn't do that on the stock version???

I'm afraid I don't understand either the role of the led...excuse me I'm so french... :
I thought you guys want you comp look like christmas tree... 8)
from my understanding, you can choose between soft and hard knee with these, is that right?

 

[[silent:arts]]

Kubi says that with the second vactrol the comp is more sensitive but with 4?
but what will be the behavior now?
is it worth it and if it's so good why analag and [silent:arts] didn't do that on the stock version???

I think there is some missunderstanding: the kubi version needs 4 vactrols, which is two each side, while the original version needs 2 vactrols which is one each side.

the D-AOC PCBs are designed for analags original schematic.
kubi was part of the beta testers, and I tried to implement his suggestions.
nobody can tell you which version fits your taste best.

 

[lolo-m]

You answered while I was...
Can you tell me more about the paralleled leds (green, blue... ) ?

 

[[silent:arts]]

fixed some dead links ...

MODDING THE SLOPES (& THRESHOLD)

 

[diyfanatic]

ok....misunderstanding!!!

I thought, WTF 8 vactrols!!!! 

BTW I'm not a real engineer, just workin in my home studio.
my primary thought for this comp was, "mastering" but more in the "glue" way...master not my job.
I'm making Hip Hop beats and my style is more "beat and bass in front"...so I thought to use it as a bus comp.

maybe the good thing for me is, a switch to select 1 or 2 vactrol...

but I'm interested by the leds too...will read the thread about!

thanks guyz!

 

[MartyMart]

Before I power up tomorrow can someone confirm that I have the "colour codes"
right for the musikding power transformer  >>>???

I have :

Primary : Yellow and Purple to pwr switch and AC Live and Neutral
yellow/green as ground

White and Orange are soldered together and insulated.

Secondaries :

Brown is 250v 0.1 amp
Red is 9v
Green is 24v

Many thanks,
Marty.

 

[flight]

hi there ,

-The TL783 seems to be out of stock everywhere , what can be a good substitute ?? ( farnell is searching for me because the only TL783 is stock in Usa ! )

-Every Bom there Left D14 and D5  which are 1N4004 on schematic  ,  what should i do there ?

Thanks

 

[Kingston]

-The TL783 seems to be out of stock everywhere , what can be a good substitute ?? ( farnell is searching for me because the only TL783 is stock in Usa ! )

It's not out of stock. This is a very standard part and it would be a serious screw up for any electronics supplier not to have it on stock.

http://fi.farnell.com/texas-instruments/tl783ckcse3/linear-regulators/dp/1666099

or

http://www.banzaieffects.com/TL783CKC-pr-16099.html

I have no clue what the KC means, but it really doesn't matter either, it's the same part. As long as the package is TO-220 (easy to mount on a heatsink), you're fine.

 

[Jonkan]

quick question: Looking at the pcb at psu3 area. Am i supposed to link the pads that say GND and PSU3 NEG?

My pcbs has been lying on my shelf for too long, its time i got back into the diy game!

I have too many projects at once going, so it seems that nothing at all is being done (4xMK7 mics, 2xpm660, 1xD-AOC, and 6xBaby Animal at this moment, all of them half finished basically)

Seems I cant stop starting on new projects and never finishing the old ones. Anyone else that has the same problem here?

/J

 

[bernbrue]

quick question: Looking at the pcb at psu3 area. Am i supposed to link the pads that say GND and PSU3 NEG?

Yes
regards
Bernd

 

[MartyMart]

In my D-AOC R1 seems a little "stressed" and is starting to show a bit of "browning" on the
outside  !!
It's a 2W and quite large ( stands off the PCB at an angle due to it's size )

Any tips on this, do I need to lower the Voltage from the 250AC secondaries before it hits the board ?

I think I have a couple of large metal 25W 22 ohms or similar somewhere ....

Thanks a Million,

Marty.

 

[MartyMart]

little "bump" on this one

 

[[silent:arts]]

...I think I have a couple of large metal 25W 22 ohms or similar somewhere ...

Marty,
R1 is 470R.
what are your voltages before and after IC1 ?
(and before R1 ?)

 

[MartyMart]

Yes of course, R1 is a 2W 470R and before ( outer edge of ) R1 is @ 333v DC inner side of R1 is 313v
It's real hard to get to the pins on the 783 and I DON'T want to short anything out.

If the "casing" of the 783 is the "out" voltage, then that is 250v DC

Where the AC from the 250v windings enters the board it's 300v AC  !!

I was just worried that R1 is "browning" a little and may be getting "cooked" !

The 25W 22 ohm comment is just a question, if I need to get the B+ down a little before R1.

At the moment I have added nothing to the circuit other that 2 x cap changes suggested by Kubi
It operates fine and is all working other than this.

Thanks,

MM.

 

[MartyMart]

I can't find your voltage readings in the thread Volker, I think your page is still down ?

I'm guessing that this is all a little high and the 783& heat sink is getting VERY hot, too
hot to touch just about.

The 2W 10k's and 2k2's are showing around 230v and 213v to the tubes, do IRC that this
should be more in the 145v region ?

Pin 1 VX01's = 108v ( V201 is closer to 101v )
Pin 1 VX02's = 213v
Pin 1 VX03's = 239v

Thanks a bunch,

MM.