The input stage is equipped with a carefully selected subminiature tube.
All voltages and currents necessary for operation are transferred via a transverter circuit
provided.
can we try to make a circuit like this? do you have an ID? How do we get it onto a circuit board?
That particular one is a rectifier tube, but that's alright, as it's not connected either..I think this one you posted in another thread is even more intriguing. Wonder what the device is? Maybe a nuvistor? Also doesn't seem to be connected.
Not sure what you're trying to accomplish, but the capsule polarization voltage is probably not your biggest problem. Sure you need some kind of a voltage booster for that, but the biggest hurdle is to find a tube with low enough heater current draw, so you have something left for the rest of the circuit. This is the least current hungry tube I know. Probably almost impossible to find a good enough speciment for microphone use.Can I connect it like this or am I completely wrong? I need more power for the capsule
Where's the tube in the video??I have a question about these micros
what is it tube mic why doesn't it have 7 pin like normal tube mics? and does that actually do anything? I would buy one and then install better components to reduce the noise. Do you think it's worth it? I have a lot of tube mics but I've never seen anything like this
https://www.alibaba.com/product-det...l?spm=a2700.shop_plgr.41413.93.63837121qRZkHk
Before you start building Frankentube make sure you have skills and everything necessary to solder those LM2665. Both POL and VCC points you marked are at ground. I also think you need to understand the Frankentube schematic, it is not a straightforward build. Many, if not most have failed.I also think it's a fake
Many tubes can work with that (I assume you still want to build a phantom powered tube mic?). Voltage is not the problem, current is. Phantom power is speced to provide 10mA IIUC. The tube I linked draws 10mA for the heater alone. You don't have anything left for the rest of the circuit unless you under heat it.Soldering is not the problem. First of all, finding a circuit that can work with 60-80 VDC
I'll keep trying, I find it really exciting
I think that circuit is more an idea than a real working thing - it wont work as advertized: If you e. g. activate ground lift, there is no power to the circuit.what are these values?
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