Klark Teknik KT-2A

[JohnX]

As for capacitor value, is the one in question sitting in the audio path? If so, it's likely to be about frequency response.

The consistent description that I keep finding in this thread is to replace “the big yellow capacitor” (thread #28, 55, 59, 117) - on my PCB, the biggest yellow capacitor is C8 and is the one that I have circled in the previous screenshot.
I am trying to confirm whether that is actually the correct capacitor to replace and if the value specified (10uf/250v also from this thread #95) in my previous comment is the correct value to replace it with. Or should I find an exact replacement for how it is actually labeled on the PCB(104J400)?

 

[kags]

The consistent description that I keep finding in this thread is to replace “the big yellow capacitor” (thread #28, 55, 59, 117) - on my PCB, the biggest yellow capacitor is C8 and is the one that I have circled in the previous screenshot.
I am trying to confirm whether that is actually the correct capacitor to replace and if the value specified (10uf/250v also from this thread #95) in my previous comment is the correct value to replace it with. Or should I find an exact replacement for how it is actually labeled on the PCB(104J400)?

Check out post #30….

 

[JohnX]

Check out post #30….

I have read that paragraph so many times and I don’t think I ever noticed the words “It's mounted on the vertical PCB” until today.
This explains why the big yellow one I had selected didn’t seem particularly big. I believe that I have located it correctly now in the attached photo.
thanks

 

[thelivingroom]

I’m preparing to do some of the suggested mods to my 2A-KT.
1 - Replace Opto attenuator - Kenetec T4B on the way. Arrives Saturday.
2 - Replace 1 12AX7 at V2 (farthest left): I have a JJ E83CC to try for now.
3 - Replace EL84: also have a JJEL84
4 - Replace 12BH7: have a NOS Sylvania we bought for a guitar amp but never used.

I may swap out these tubes for some older NOS at some point, but I think these should still be an upgrade.

Those all seem fairly simple, but I’ve got a few questions about this:
5 - Replace what is traditionally described in this thread as the “big yellow capacitor” C8? (thread #28, 55, 59, 117) I have circled what I am assuming to be the correct one in one of the photos. It is labeled on top 104J400 - the only reason I’m not sure whether the one I have circled is correct is because the value that I read in this thread to replace it with appears to be slightly different: 10uf/250v (thread #95)
Have I circled the correct capacitor to replace?
Should I replace with higher quality 10uf/250v OR did I miss the correct value in this thread?


Before I can remove and replace that capacitor, I will have to remove the PCB. I have noticed that there is a yellowish adhesive on a few of the connectors that are attached to the PCB. I have attached some screenshots. Is there any special handling that I should be utilizing when “breaking that seal”?

​

Solen 10uF 250v fits perfectly as a replacement for “big yellow”. I did the mods for a friend of mine last year (except for the EL84 - that didn’t seem necessary), and I also changed the red capacitor below that Midas trans to a Sprague 716P .022uF 600v “orange drop” and the two yellow “104J250” to the right of it to Solen .1uF 630v. I thought the unit sounded like harsh trash when I listened to it before starting the mods, compared to the real deal and my DIY versions, but was very useable after the changes. You should be much happier with it after.