Mini SSL 5000 Mixer build thread (Revisited 2015)

[helterbelter]

ah, yes, pin 28a :

http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=23597.msg439867#msg439867

 

[helterbelter]

I just purchased this PSU for the 5K standalone stuff that I have :

http://www.ebay.nl/itm/110835039307?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

I didn't know raindirk produced these.  I'm very curious !

 

[baadc0de]

Nice find! let us know how it fares.

 

[DigitalMetal]

Hey guys !
Sorry ive been off the radar for a while but ive been incredibly busy with other things,
Well the good news is i finished my Mini SSL Mixer and it all worked great, but the bad news is i wired the 25pin D's round the wrong way so channel 1's input is routing to channel 8's input module and 8's in put is going to 1's module, its  wired in 2 banks (3 dsubs) so channel 9's input is going to channel 16's and vice versa and channel 17's to 24's module if that makes sense to you, so i need to rewire it all
BUT ! at least it works!
I also have not cut my ventilation slots in the wooden rack yet so i still have a lot of work to do, i cant use it yet anyway as i dont have space at the moment so i have plenty of time to sort it out,
Ive also been trying to Repair a DIY 1176 belonging to a friend that is proving to be an absolute nightmare, and considering building the rest of My IMO's into summers with built in Bus comps, ah so much to do so little time !

So helterbelter !

How did that PSU work out?

I actually got a lot of my modules and rails from Raindirk, Cyril is a really nice guy and really knows his stuff!

 

[kante1603]

Hi Neil!

Nice hearing from you!
Well,your wiring,I'd say sh.. Happens,no. ;D
But good to hear that the modules are working.Has anybody found a solution for a battery backup buffer to keep the last state after powering off?
Just curious.
I have too much work in my real life too,it's the yearly peak at the moment.Must wait until summer or so to go ahead with my projects.
Patience is the key.

Have a good time,

Udo.

 

[DigitalMetal]

Hi Udo,

Good to hear from you too!
Yeah, lesson learned with my wiring do one channel and test it befor going further
With regards to battery backup personally i havent bothered to investigate it because i will end up making written recall sheets for everything i do (maybe even just photos of the current settings to be saved in my project folders) so the state of the buttons memory is no big deal for me.
Yup ive got so many other projects on the go that its going to be a slow process moving forward!

 

[helterbelter]

Regarding the battery backup, I once tested a 6v battery between the -18v BU and -24v lines. This works, but I didn't use a chargeable battery. Something I still need to do. I need to buy a 6v acid battery for this, something to do for later.

My console is ready for now. it does work the way it should, but there are a few modules that need to be done later. The internal wiring is ready, with the exception of a few aux lines, PFL/AFL stuff, and talkbackstuff.
I'll finish it up later this year, yesterday I started recording again, at last. The only thing that needs to be done soon on the console is the calibration of everything. Not done in a second, there are more than 100 modules in it....

 

[atticmike]

in case i just want to rack it 19", do I need the -24 and -6 voltages?

Are they needed for using the unit + accessing trim, hpf & lpf?

Mike

 

[DigitalMetal]

in case i just want to rack it 19", do I need the -24 and -6 voltages?

Are they needed for using the unit + accessing trim, hpf & lpf?

Mike

You only need + and - 18V and -24v (the +/- 18 is for the whole module, and the -24v is for the logic).

 

[atticmike]

in case i just want to rack it 19", do I need the -24 and -6 voltages?

Are they needed for using the unit + accessing trim, hpf & lpf?

Mike

You only need + and - 18V and -24v (the +/- 18 is for the whole module, and the -24v is for the logic).

alright.

-24v for the logic?

current modules just need +5 (xrack)

Guess having to do with it being digital.

God, I'll put one hell of a frankenstein unit together.

 

[DigitalMetal]

in case i just want to rack it 19", do I need the -24 and -6 voltages?

Are they needed for using the unit + accessing trim, hpf & lpf?

Mike

You only need + and - 18V and -24v (the +/- 18 is for the whole module, and the -24v is for the logic).

alright.

-24v for the logic?

current modules just need +5 (xrack)

Guess having to do with it being digital.

God, I'll put one hell of a frankenstein unit together.

-24v for switching logic to make the buttons work etc,

X-rack modules have nothing to do with the 5000 series stuff this thread is about.
All the info here is 5000 series not Xrack.

 

[atticmike]

in case i just want to rack it 19", do I need the -24 and -6 voltages?

Are they needed for using the unit + accessing trim, hpf & lpf?

Mike

You only need + and - 18V and -24v (the +/- 18 is for the whole module, and the -24v is for the logic).

alright.

-24v for the logic?

current modules just need +5 (xrack)

Guess having to do with it being digital.

God, I'll put one hell of a frankenstein unit together.

-24v for switching logic to make the buttons work etc,

X-rack modules have nothing to do with the 5000 series stuff this thread is about.
All the info here is 5000 series not Xrack.

i know, was just saying.

thanks for the info

 

[DigitalMetal]

in case i just want to rack it 19", do I need the -24 and -6 voltages?

Are they needed for using the unit + accessing trim, hpf & lpf?

Mike

You only need + and - 18V and -24v (the +/- 18 is for the whole module, and the -24v is for the logic).

alright.

-24v for the logic?

current modules just need +5 (xrack)

Guess having to do with it being digital.

God, I'll put one hell of a frankenstein unit together.

-24v for switching logic to make the buttons work etc,

X-rack modules have nothing to do with the 5000 series stuff this thread is about.
All the info here is 5000 series not Xrack.

i know, was just saying.

thanks for the info

No problem, thought you might be confusing the two different systems.

 

[atticmike]

in case i just want to rack it 19", do I need the -24 and -6 voltages?

Are they needed for using the unit + accessing trim, hpf & lpf?

Mike

You only need + and - 18V and -24v (the +/- 18 is for the whole module, and the -24v is for the logic).

alright.

-24v for the logic?

current modules just need +5 (xrack)

Guess having to do with it being digital.

God, I'll put one hell of a frankenstein unit together.

-24v for switching logic to make the buttons work etc,

X-rack modules have nothing to do with the 5000 series stuff this thread is about.
All the info here is 5000 series not Xrack.

i know, was just saying.

thanks for the info

No problem, thought you might be confusing the two different systems.

Well regardless of this thread, I'll be coupling the 5000 input module with the x-rack e series classic brown knob + black knob eq, which runs at +/- 15 and +5v. I'm aware of their completely different architecture approach

 

[DigitalMetal]

Cool, start a thread about it so we can see your progress, good luck 

 

[atticmike]

Cool, start a thread about it so we can see your progress, good luck 

are the +6 necessary to run the modules?

you may take a closer look at my thread if you want to:

http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=49400.0

Also, why didn't you pick a 100 VAC at 18V secondary voltage since + - 18 are required? <--- Ah got it, because of the 3 A.

 

[atticmike]

also what's the 10k doing at the -24 dc voltage?

 

[helterbelter]

to pin 1a ?
That's to keep the master-reset "low". Otherwise it could happen that some switches accidentally reset.

 

[atticmike]

to pin 1a ?
That's to keep the master-reset "low". Otherwise it could happen that some switches accidentally reset.

ah, alright, thanks, makes sense.

Also what I'm wondering is why did you choose 15 secondary and not instead something lower since the * 1.4 rule of thumb?

 

[atticmike]

is it actually possible to do the negative doubler rail mod with the +48 rail as a regular one with the ac/dc kit from jlm as well?

also, isn't the headroom of 18 v secondary at about 25 a little low for 24 dc?