bkbirge
Well-known member
Nice build Winetree, looks super clean. I've thought about something similar and have wondered if one of those toroids is rated with enough juice to power more than one PCB power board. Anyone have the ratings?
official GDIY51PSU Help & Support Thread
- Thread starter [silent:arts]
- Start date
Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:
No can do. The toroids are only for 1 PCB, no more. Specs are here. http://classicapi.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=87_112&products_id=191 Winetree does have 2 toroids & 2 PCB's.bkbirge said:
bkbirge
Well-known member
jsteiger said:
Figured as much or otherwise someone would have done it already. Had to ask though.
![[silent:arts]](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/groupdiy/data/avatars/m/0/172.jpg?1620371656){kind=avatar}
[silent:arts]
Well-known member
bkbirge,
if you are planning one rack with 11 mic pres running @ +/-16V,
and another with 11 EQs running at +/-24V one PSU transformer and one PSU PCB will be fine 8)
however, since it is a modular system, and we don't know which modules customers are installing, our official statement - to be on the safe side - will always be:
one PSU transformer and one PSU PCB for each Rack
if you are planning one rack with 11 mic pres running @ +/-16V,
and another with 11 EQs running at +/-24V one PSU transformer and one PSU PCB will be fine 8)
however, since it is a modular system, and we don't know which modules customers are installing, our official statement - to be on the safe side - will always be:
one PSU transformer and one PSU PCB for each Rack
Hi,
I have some troubles for sourcing connector.
The 8 way, no problems, but the AC connector 10 way it's more problematic.
The hole of the pcb are very small and i think this part
http://fr.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Phoenix-Contact/1935242/?qs=DAHzmYU9cu0ldFZvOUkKdw%3d%3d
can't fix to it.
What kind of connector you put on it ?
Thx a lot
I have some troubles for sourcing connector.
The 8 way, no problems, but the AC connector 10 way it's more problematic.
The hole of the pcb are very small and i think this part
http://fr.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Phoenix-Contact/1935242/?qs=DAHzmYU9cu0ldFZvOUkKdw%3d%3d
can't fix to it.
What kind of connector you put on it ?
Thx a lot
I use a Tyco part #1-282836-0.
sr1200
Well-known member
i believe you just bend the wire and punch it down inbetween the blades for each channel in the connector. When the blades cut through the insulation, the wire inside makes contact and holds everything in place. I like dealing with those over the molex little snap in deals any day.
sr1200
Well-known member
Theres always that option, just as long as you dont need to disconnect them and reconnect them any number of times.
acoustix said:
Yes and no, the ones Ptownkid is providing is good, used in consumer stuff etc... Less headache compared to Molex from what they say...
I use Molex because that's what's in stock, and more used in here so... crimp, add solder and voila, no troubles, time consuming yes, but common DIY is time consuming.... and when opening guts, even less troubles.
sahib
Well-known member
This is some info on the dual psu. We did a small batch of only 13 to respond to primarily the inquiries I was receiving. There are now only 5 left which are available through myself and shipped from UK.
On this version we have the status LEDs on the front panel as usual but the fuses are included inside the cases on a board named FB (Fuse Board).
The mains connection is now also made through the mains connection board (MCB) which greatly simplifies the transformer connections.
Mains Connections
The earth connection from the IEC connects to the chassis point. Again it leaves the chassis point and comes to the 3 way terminal block on the MCB. It is clearly marked.
Live (L) and Neutral (N) from IEC go to the mains switch. Come out of the mains switch and go to the MCB. Again these are clearly marked.
For transformer connections there are two windings marked on each of the five block terminals on the MCB. These are the two 120V windings of the transformer. On the transformer these two windings are paired as White and Yellow.
So you connect, White-Yellow / White-Yellow.
The last one is the earth connection from the transformer which is Yellow with Green stripes/bands.
DC Output Connections
The DC outputs from the regulator board and the inputs to the fuse board are clearly identified. The DC outputs from the fuse board to the 7 pin Neutrik are also clearly marked.
DC connections on the 7 pin Neutrik are as follows;
1 = Chassis
2 = Gnd
3 = +16V
4 = -16V
5 = +48V
6 = +24V
7= -24V
The 7 core cable is numbered from 1 to 6 + Yellow/Green. I know it is a bit of a pain in the back side but the Yellow/Green connects to Pin 1 and the others go in staggered order. Wire no 1 to Pin no 2, wire no 2 to Pin no 3 etc.
The status LED connections are shown on the schematic image. On the LED the long pin is positive (+) and the short pin is negative (-). Simply wire them the way they are shown.
In the component pack fine gauge wires and shrink tubing are included. Solder the wires directly onto the LEDs and shroud them using shrink tubing.
If you do not have a crimping tool for the crimps you can shorten the tabs (that normally bend over the wire to lock it) and lock the wire using a pair of long nose pliers. If this is too fiddly for you, although not recommended, you can solder the wires directly onto the Molex headers and shroud them using shrink tubing.
The series current limiting resistors for the LEDs are normally included in the psu board electronic components package. The values are as follows;
4K7 for +48V
2K2 for + - 24V
1K5 for + - 16V
If you have already soldered them onto the regulator board and can not be bothered removing them e-mail me and I'll send you a set.
Note on the regulator connections to the regulator PCB.
Mount he LM350 regulators onto the heatsink using the mounting screws/washers provided. Silpad insulators are included in the electronic components kit. Make sure that the tabs of the regulators do not have electrical conduction with the heatsink. The surface of the heatsink is normally non conductive, so this may mislead you. Check it between the mounting screws and the regulator tabs.
The connections to the regulator board is made through the 3 core wire that I supplied. Shrink tubing is also included. Cut the wire in sufficient length. Do not make it longer than necessary.
The 3 way headers solder onto the other end of the wire and then solder onto the board in place of the regulators. Nice and clean.
There are good examples of psu connections in this thread. Therefore I strongly recommend that make a cup of tea/coffee and read them throughly. Chunger's thread alone deserves a few cups of tea/coffee. However, if you are still not sure of something please do not hesitate to contact me at info_at_robotica_dot_co_dot_uk
Chunger;s impressive build thread for both the 511 rack and psu
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=41617.0
511 rack support thread
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=37438.0
On this version we have the status LEDs on the front panel as usual but the fuses are included inside the cases on a board named FB (Fuse Board).
The mains connection is now also made through the mains connection board (MCB) which greatly simplifies the transformer connections.
Mains Connections
The earth connection from the IEC connects to the chassis point. Again it leaves the chassis point and comes to the 3 way terminal block on the MCB. It is clearly marked.
Live (L) and Neutral (N) from IEC go to the mains switch. Come out of the mains switch and go to the MCB. Again these are clearly marked.
For transformer connections there are two windings marked on each of the five block terminals on the MCB. These are the two 120V windings of the transformer. On the transformer these two windings are paired as White and Yellow.
So you connect, White-Yellow / White-Yellow.
The last one is the earth connection from the transformer which is Yellow with Green stripes/bands.
DC Output Connections
The DC outputs from the regulator board and the inputs to the fuse board are clearly identified. The DC outputs from the fuse board to the 7 pin Neutrik are also clearly marked.
DC connections on the 7 pin Neutrik are as follows;
1 = Chassis
2 = Gnd
3 = +16V
4 = -16V
5 = +48V
6 = +24V
7= -24V
The 7 core cable is numbered from 1 to 6 + Yellow/Green. I know it is a bit of a pain in the back side but the Yellow/Green connects to Pin 1 and the others go in staggered order. Wire no 1 to Pin no 2, wire no 2 to Pin no 3 etc.
The status LED connections are shown on the schematic image. On the LED the long pin is positive (+) and the short pin is negative (-). Simply wire them the way they are shown.
In the component pack fine gauge wires and shrink tubing are included. Solder the wires directly onto the LEDs and shroud them using shrink tubing.
If you do not have a crimping tool for the crimps you can shorten the tabs (that normally bend over the wire to lock it) and lock the wire using a pair of long nose pliers. If this is too fiddly for you, although not recommended, you can solder the wires directly onto the Molex headers and shroud them using shrink tubing.
The series current limiting resistors for the LEDs are normally included in the psu board electronic components package. The values are as follows;
4K7 for +48V
2K2 for + - 24V
1K5 for + - 16V
If you have already soldered them onto the regulator board and can not be bothered removing them e-mail me and I'll send you a set.
Note on the regulator connections to the regulator PCB.
Mount he LM350 regulators onto the heatsink using the mounting screws/washers provided. Silpad insulators are included in the electronic components kit. Make sure that the tabs of the regulators do not have electrical conduction with the heatsink. The surface of the heatsink is normally non conductive, so this may mislead you. Check it between the mounting screws and the regulator tabs.
The connections to the regulator board is made through the 3 core wire that I supplied. Shrink tubing is also included. Cut the wire in sufficient length. Do not make it longer than necessary.
The 3 way headers solder onto the other end of the wire and then solder onto the board in place of the regulators. Nice and clean.
There are good examples of psu connections in this thread. Therefore I strongly recommend that make a cup of tea/coffee and read them throughly. Chunger's thread alone deserves a few cups of tea/coffee. However, if you are still not sure of something please do not hesitate to contact me at info_at_robotica_dot_co_dot_uk
Chunger;s impressive build thread for both the 511 rack and psu
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=41617.0
511 rack support thread
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=37438.0
Axelerator
Well-known member
Wow just got the dual power supply from cemal
-best packaging ever seen so far ! period !
and very nice doku i got from him btw.
..shure i soldered the resistors ( R3,13,23,33,43 )when they came with the psu board.. :
do i have to remove them ? keep them where they are and solder another ones on the board you send me ?
greets
axel
-best packaging ever seen so far ! period !
and very nice doku i got from him btw.
..shure i soldered the resistors ( R3,13,23,33,43 )when they came with the psu board.. :
do i have to remove them ? keep them where they are and solder another ones on the board you send me ?
greets
axel
sahib
Well-known member
No probs Axel. I'll post you some tomorrow.
Axelerator
Well-known member
ok thanks alot !
i suggest i can leave the others floating with no led onboard then.
btw did anybody compared snubbered version against unsnubbered ?
having some switch mode psu´s in the near it is maybe better leaving them out ?
greets as always
axel
i suggest i can leave the others floating with no led onboard then.
btw did anybody compared snubbered version against unsnubbered ?
having some switch mode psu´s in the near it is maybe better leaving them out ?
greets as always
axel
I got my dual psu case too, a work of art!!
I made the same mistake with the resistors R3,13,23,33,43....
Mr Cemal had been nice and sent a bag of resistors I thought were for the led' s, and they probably are, so I just soldered them in.
But today I pulled the resistors from the psu regulator board and put them in the fuse board because two of the resistors in the bag were 2k4 insted of 1k5.
By reading the schematic I can't see any harm done.
A BIG thank you to the team behind this, and a special thank you to Mr Cemal for all the extra' s, his informative mails and patiance with me!!
Now it' s time for a meta on 51X compatible modules running +/- 24V don't you think....
/ Magnus
I made the same mistake with the resistors R3,13,23,33,43....
Mr Cemal had been nice and sent a bag of resistors I thought were for the led' s, and they probably are, so I just soldered them in.
But today I pulled the resistors from the psu regulator board and put them in the fuse board because two of the resistors in the bag were 2k4 insted of 1k5.
By reading the schematic I can't see any harm done.
A BIG thank you to the team behind this, and a special thank you to Mr Cemal for all the extra' s, his informative mails and patiance with me!!
Now it' s time for a meta on 51X compatible modules running +/- 24V don't you think....
/ Magnus
sahib
Well-known member
Another member asked the same question by e-mail.
Yes, you will have five resistors on the regulator board sitting, doing nothing. 8)
However, they were there originally for exactly the same reason, status LEDs. However, once they are re-introduced in the fuse board, after the fuses, they become redundant on the regulator board.
I don't know what you mean by snubbered and the switch mode. The regulator board is all linear.
Kind regards.
Yes, you will have five resistors on the regulator board sitting, doing nothing. 8)
However, they were there originally for exactly the same reason, status LEDs. However, once they are re-introduced in the fuse board, after the fuses, they become redundant on the regulator board.
I don't know what you mean by snubbered and the switch mode. The regulator board is all linear.
Kind regards.
Axelerator
Well-known member
hi there
sorry for this ! i wanted to ask if anybody has compared a psu fitted with the rectifier shunt (´snubber´) caps to the´ oldschool´ version without.
The Switch mode Power supplys i wrote from (PC,some small ones from synthies) will surround my nice dual511 PSU rack . so i am getting possibly lots of HF rubbish
on the AC Side.
don´t know if the caps will shunt it to my regulator..?
axel
sorry for this !
i wanted to ask if anybody has compared a psu fitted with the rectifier shunt (´snubber´) caps to the´ oldschool´ version without.The Switch mode Power supplys i wrote from (PC,some small ones from synthies) will surround my nice dual511 PSU rack . so i am getting possibly lots of HF rubbish
on the AC Side.
don´t know if the caps will shunt it to my regulator..?
axel
