Opening a AliExpress TLM107 clone

[doqmemory]

I bought a cheap TLM107 clone from AliExpress to use as a donor body, but cannot figure out how to open it.

It doesn't have any screws, except the XLR screw. I have looked under the black label that substitutes for the decal, but nothing is underneath.

The headbasket is slightly loose, if I twist and pull on it. I can see that there is some kind of tab that is likely what is holding the headbasket on, but other than bending the body, I have not figured out how to open it.

Does anyone have any experience with this type of body or have any suggestions?

 

[Андрій Чубака]

I am looking for a cheap body can you send me a link for buy it?

Try turn it in any direction from bottom

 

[doqmemory]

I am looking for a cheap body can you send me a link for buy it?

Try turn it in any direction from bottom

Thanks, I have tried turning and twisting many different ways. I have pulled out the XLR connection, but cannot see anything inside that can release the headbasket. It is a decent microphone, at least until I pulled out the circuit board. It is the typical small Scheops-style circuit board soldered directly to the XLR connection.

Here is the link https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256...t_main.58.21ef18025P43Ey&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

 

[Андрій Чубака]

Yes it is interesting. Thanks. But i have nothing more to solve your problem. If you can open it later with out damage please let know about it here.

 

[Icantthinkofaname]

Maybe try a heat gun or hair dryer if it's soldered or held together with contact cement. Also if you're not already wearing them, try thick rubber gloves. I had a mic I couldn't get open a few years back because of how the base was threaded but reusable rubber gloves solved that.

 

[doqmemory]

Maybe try a heat gun or hair dryer if it's soldered or held together with contact cement. Also if you're not already wearing them, try thick rubber gloves. I had a mic I couldn't get open a few years back because of how the base was threaded but reusable rubber gloves solved that.

Those are great suggestions. I will try the heat gun first.

 

[wlinart]

I've got the same ones a while back, and it's a bit scary to open them. You need to press gently on the mesh of the headbasket. After removing the mesh there are screws between the headbasket and the rest of the body.

 

[aazaa]

I put the head basket upside down in white spirit. After 2 hours the glue is completely dissolved. The microphone can be easily opened without any damage.

 

[doqmemory]

I put the head basket upside down in white spirit. After 2 hours the glue is completely dissolved. The microphone can be easily opened without any damage.

Thanks, I'll try that.

 

[doqmemory]

Some acetone dissolved the glue so I could pull out the screens.

I'm glad that I only bought 1 of these.

 

[aazaa]

I'm glad that I only bought 1 of these.

Why? If you put the frame and screens for 2 hours in white spirit all glue residue will be gone. It is easy to glue them back after installing a new circuit and a performant capsule.

 

[doqmemory]

Why? If you put the frame and screens for 2 hours in white spirit all glue residue will be gone. It is easy to glue them back after installing a new circuit and a performant capsule.

I would rather use screws than glue. Imagine trying to pull it apart for troubleshooting.

 

[aazaa]

OK. You have a point.

I only use 4 drops/side to glue them back. It is possible to open the mesh quite easily for repair using the wlinart/kinkorg 'gentle push-pull way'.
Also opened the first microphones in this way. They were glued only in a few small points. The third was glued so thoroughly that I came up with the white spirit idea.

 

[doqmemory]

The third was glued so thoroughly that I came up with the white spirit idea.

Yes, that was how mine was. I will try to use the smallest amount of glue to reattach the sceens, once I get all of the residual glue cleaned out.

 

[Khron]

Can't imagine the shielding is too great, if the mesh is just glued into the frame. Doesn't exactly scream "reliable electrical contact"...

 

[kingkorg]

On the other hand you absolutely get what you paid for if not more. Not traditional sort of construction, but with some diy spirit you get a great body. I have modified several of these, including a tube m50 with spherical capsule, and have no issues whatsoever. No ringing of the body, sturdy construction, great looking mic, minimal headbasket resonance and reflection issues. 3 layers of mesh, but you do need to provide secure ground connection to it, which isn't too difficult.

 

[k brown]

On the other hand you absolutely get what you paid for if not more. Not traditional sort of construction, but with some diy spirit you get a great body. I have modified several of these, including a tube m50 with spherical capsule, and have no issues whatsoever. No ringing of the body, sturdy construction, great looking mic, minimal headbasket resonance and reflection issues. 3 layers of mesh, but you do need to provide secure ground connection to it, which isn't too difficult.

I use silver-bearing epoxy for this kind if thing.
https://www.amazon.com/Electrically...=electrically+conductive+epoxy,aps,176&sr=8-4
https://www.amazon.com/Resist-Elect...=electrically+conductive+epoxy,aps,176&sr=8-1
Then figure some other way of attaching the basket head to the body that's electrically conductive and reverseable/repairable. How did you attach yours, @kingkorg ?

 

[kingkorg]

I use silver-bearing epoxy for this kind if thing.
https://www.amazon.com/Electrically...=electrically+conductive+epoxy,aps,176&sr=8-4
https://www.amazon.com/Resist-Elect...=electrically+conductive+epoxy,aps,176&sr=8-1
Then figure some other way of attaching the basket head to the body that's electrically conductive and reverseable/repairable. How did you attach yours, @kingkorg ?

I guess i use the similar thing, i don't have the original box, a friend shared some with me, he has huge amounts of it.

 

[k brown]

So, you epoxied the head basket onto the body?

 

[kingkorg]

So, you epoxied the head basket onto the body?

Just the corners, used more flexible stuff around in case i have to disassemble it again.