PASSIVE RELAY-BASED CONTROLL ROOM KITS BUILD/SUPPORT TREAD

[TheGuitarist]

Will do soon, just trying to trouble shoot some problems with my TB combiner, mic isn't working... but that could be the mic, works with my computer, just gotta work that out.

 

[syn]

Hi
   anyone have part no. for green display (farnell or digikey). I found this one at digikey  but
i'm not sure is it the right thing- data sheets are so confusing, for this stuff.
Thank you

 

[Igor]

http://il.farnell.com/jsp/level5/module.jsp?moduleId=en/206269.xml
Common anode, 8.
HDSP-4601 should work, according to datasheet.

 

[dtonthept]

Hi folks,

There are two chips which I just wanted to understand a bit better - they both have A6833SEPT printed on them on one line, but then below they are different:

1 - 0834
  - 0834023MDAA

2 - 0710
  - 0710347MDAA

Are they both exactly the same (and can go in either socket) with the different numbers indicating they are from different batches, or are they different and do they each need to go in a specific place?

The schematics say A6833 in both places so my guess is that they are the same, I just wanted to double check.

Thanks!

D

 

[dtonthept]

One other very quick question - I have a dead LED on one of the buttons, does anyone know if it's possible to swap the LED itself for a new one, or would I need to get a whole new switch?

And if anyone has a part number (and/or link in North America) for either or both of these I'd be hugely grateful.

Thanks in advance,

D

 

[crisotop]

make sure it's not just reversed

 

[dtonthept]

Hahaha that is a VERY good point!

I checked it with my multimeter and it is definitely not working, all my other LEDs light when I tested them...

I wish it had been such simple solution though!

Anyone else with any insight about those chips or a replacement LED?

Thanks,

D

 

[rob_gould]

Yes - you should just be able to replace them with a 3mm LED of the correct colour.  The dome topped kind, not flat top.

The only issue you may run into is a slightly different brightness if the LED is not exactly the same spec.

If you want to source a whole new switch, search your normal supplier for MEC.  I'm not in the US, but here's where I get them from in the UK.  You should be able to find part numbers here :

http://www.rapidonline.com/Electronic-Components/Switches/Tactile-Switches/3FTL6-IP67-Tactile-switch-for-cap/80566

You need to order the cap separately.

 

[DIY-solder]

I just bought new monitors (Event Opal) and with Igor's CRM I hear loud clicking when switching between all monitors.  ???
The click only comes from these new monitors. Looks like they are sensitive to some changes when switching....

Is there anything it could be done inside the CRM to reduce or avoid these clicks?

 

[Tim Campbell]

The problems I was having seemed to be caused by poor construction ( not me!!). I changed the encoders to Alps STEC16B02 but they only work correctly in reverse ( to left turns up/ right turns down). I assume this is because of an incorrect pulse length. I'm hesitant to use specified original EC12E encoders because of the problems I had. Is there another  high quality encoder you would recommend?

 

[Igor]

The problems I was having seemed to be caused by poor construction ( not me!!)

Can you please point me to this person?

I changed the encoders to Alps STEC16B02 but they only work correctly in reverse ( to left turns up/ right turns down). I assume this is because of an incorrect pulse length.

To change PULSE LENGTH, swap the encoder's signal output pins, this will give you
correct PULSE LENGTH to get right direction.

@diy-solder: had same question from Purusha by mail....strange.
Check fro DC offsets. Maybe, input stage of new speakers has a tendency to oscillate.

 

[DIY-solder]

Check fro DC offsets. Maybe, input stage of new speakers has a tendency to oscillate.

How exactly do I check this?

BTW, I never got any replay by email... strange.

 

[dtonthept]

Hi all, just a bump for an earlier question:

There are two chips which I just wanted to understand a bit better - they both have A6833SEPT printed on them on one line, but then below they are different:

1 - 0834
  - 0834023MDAA

2 - 0710
  - 0710347MDAA

Are they both exactly the same (and can go in either socket) with the different numbers indicating they are from different batches, or are they different and do they each need to go in a specific place?

The schematics say A6833 in both places so my guess is that they are the same, I just wanted to double check.

Thanks so much,

D

 

[Igor]

Hi, A6833 is serial input 32-bit relay driver. Both are same.
Please check for "key" both socket and chip, when installing them.

 

[dtonthept]

Awesome, thanks Igor!

D

 

[bluesbaz]

So I've read every page of this thread and still don't see a BOM. If one exists, I would love to see it.

 

[Igor]

PM me your mail address, for BOM.

 

[gec]

HI, In the kit I received I got 24V relays...
-without talkback combiner can I use a 24Vdc switching power supply like this?:
http://il.farnell.com/xp-power/acs40us24/psu-open-pcb-40w-24v/dp/1109811

thanks for your help, Gec

 

[Igor]

There are two options...
Please check if relays are marked:
M4-12H
1A/24VDC
0.5A/120V DC

M4-12H is 12 v relays. "1A/24VDC 0.5A/120V AC" related to contacts current.
This is good option.

If they are marked M4-24 or something like this...this is not bad option as well,
my first CRM design was running on 24 volts for all relays.

You can do it on 24V of course. Be sure heatsinks are instaled on 7805.

If relays are wrong type (I doubt, but all can be
please pm me your shipping address, I will send 12V relays without a charge,
just send me back 24V relays.

 

[gec]

:-[ I'm an idiot, it's the M4-12H...sorry. gec.