PASSIVE RELAY-BASED CONTROLL ROOM KITS BUILD/SUPPORT TREAD

[CapRock]

Hey Igor,
Payment Sent For 1 CRM full kit.  Let me know if you need any other info besides what I sent in the paypal notes section.  How long till you do another shipping? thanks...Chris

 

[choko]

Hi Igor,
Payement sent for 3 CRM full kit...Everything is ok? do you need further informations?
regards

choko

 

[juniorhifikit]

From the other side, I did design for very similar CRM project, active, without digital control
and quite more DIY-able.

New CRM has: 4 inputs (1 of 4), 3 outputs (can be 1 of 3 or paralelled),
mono, mute (dim), AND great A/B option.
It can be used as simple mastering console with 2 inserts or CRM
with A/B test compatibility.
Talkback can be easy added here.
It is not hi-end as relay-based, passive CRM, but quite more DIY-friendly,
and, trust me, better than monitor section of $$L G4000 (G6000).

Hey Igor,

On this new CRM design would it be possible to link 3 boards together for a surround controller?

 

[Igor]

Hi, I think, you will receive the kits within 3 weeks, depending on post office speed
2 CRM kits were shipped last week, we have some orders to be shipped now...
Address..everything correct...cool than!

On this new CRM design would it be possible to link 3 boards together for a surround controller?

Hmmmm....... The previous version is surround-friendly, just parallel 3 audio board's controls....
For new version, if you can find 5 or 6 decks 24(21)-pos. switch, yes, it is possible.
The rest is parallel selector's relays, mono, dim...Yes, possible, after some thinking

 

[CapRock]

Hi igor,
    I just ordered 1 CRM kit from you.  Is it the passive relay based kit or the new version kit?  I was hoping to have the passive relay kit.  The only reason I am asking is because I ordered the case for it from TAT and I would like to know if the new version will work with his case?

 

[Igor]

Old, passive, proved and built many times, Christmas edition.
When the new once will be available, there will be kinda announce.
I have to be more specific, anyway
This make laugh hard:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8104PLAI_N0

 

[tomcat]

Verrrry nice avatarrrr you have now

Pls, if you find time, check my post on one page before, regarding the buffering for the meters

Thanks!

 

[mik]

Hi Igor, I Have 7 segment Led display
http://uk.farnell.com/avago-technologies/5082-7651/led-display-0-43-he-red/dp/1175582?_requestid=354031

they Has 2 pin more then the holes on the PCB,
do I have to cut those 2 ?

 

[plumsolly]

What have people been using for their knobs? I really like the white one Igor used on page one, but I haven't had any luck finding something similar - everything has indicator marks of some kind. I've had mine finished for more than a year and I still haven't found anything.

Thanks, Ben

 

[tomcat]

Alps has a nice knob in black. White i dont know.

EDIT: Fits, but doesnt clamp too well to the encoder (well its also alps, so how could i suggest a good fit  : ) and looks a little bit cheap .. so not the perfect solution

 

[Igor]

Hi Tomcat, thanx, I love this avatarrrrr

THAT1246 ... isnt that overkill? We dont need sonic capabilities for a meter feed, or do we for some other reasons?

I was thinking just to add non-inverting buffers to avoid getting noise or other stuff from the control box/cable back into the audio part. Like to keep the one wire solution. Do i miss something?

I usually have INA137/THAT line receivers in-stock...instead of inventing balanced line receiver
with op-amp and some parts across it, less time and money. One INA2137 can do perfect job here.
Put it on small breadboard in audio box, supply can be feed from dc/dc converter like:
http://il.farnell.com/xp-power/ia1215s/converter-dc-dc-1w-15v/dp/8727597

It will be better IMHO to feed "buffered" audio by separate cables to controller.  
VGA cable has no enough lines to do it.

 

[DAN_000]

Hi Igor,  What is  U20 ?  Everything works like expected, but everytime I boot I see U20 on screen for a sec. 

Thanks!

 

[Igor]

Great news!!!!

Hi Igor,  What is  U20 ?  Everything works like expected, but everytime I boot I see U20 on screen for a sec. 

Thanks!

Software version, V2.00

 

[tomcat]

Finished the build today after a looong wait for the red LEDs.

What should i say ... click click click ... its so cooool  ;D


Thanks a lot Igor!

 

[Igor]

HURRAYYYY!!!!!
How's the sound, BTW?

 

[tomcat]

Well, was just bench / function testing. Need to build a new case for my remote/meters idea.

Im still unsure if i should use the 1U case i have + the Tascam DB25 cables (which i dont have right now) or build a 2U version with XLRs on the back. I dont like these adapter cables so much.

P.S. Was an easy build. The only thing which didnt happen to me since a long time ... i reversed two electrolytics. The bug was easy to find: bang .. smoke  ;D

 

[Igor]

lol
Wash the PCB after capacitor's blown, if they put some electrolyte on pcb, it can contaminate.
I hate reversed electrolitycs-it smells soooo bad!

Try Mogami 8 snakes (thin, nice, cool cable).
I saw many DB25's on some mastering units, so.....hmmm...dunno
Many people use them, and it become standard.
Anyway, I hate DB-25's too.
My personal taste goes to ELCO 56 pin for case like 4 stereo unit's insert cable (K-1).
But this is not DIY frendly thing (soldering=real hardcore).

 

[rob_gould]

Hey Igor,

Disaster strikes!

I powered up my monitor controller today (its been working fine for a year or more), and hear one click from the relays, then nothing.

Button LEDs are dead, 7 segment displays are dead, and when I turn the volume control, no clicks from the relays.

I tried turning it off, waiting, and then powering on with trim held down following your instructions on the last page.  Again - nothing...

The interesting thing is, when powered on, the unit does pass audio (at 0dB), there's no way to control the gain though.

Any idea what might be the problem?  Is the microcontroller dead?

EDIT - Panic over! 

After a bit of prodding about inside I found one of the leads on the main board going to my DIY veroboard control board had come loose.  Should be a simple job to fix...

 

[tomcat]

Igor,

The 3 data lines between the remote and mainboard (Data_in, Clock, Strobe) ... necessary to use shielded wire per line or do you think it will work if i take 2 twisted pairs with common shield for Clock&Strobe or another combination.

Im still trying to figure out a way to just use one cable to my remote (+ my add on for the vu/ppms). A HDMI cable could possibly work, there i have 4 twisted pairs with shield/pair + a couple of extra wires for power.

 

[Igor]

After a bit of prodding about inside I found one of the leads on the main board going to my DIY veroboard control board had come loose.  Should be a simple job to fix...

Duh. It was adrenaline'ish!

The 3 data lines between the remote and mainboard (Data_in, Clock, Strobe) ... necessary to use shielded wire per line or do you think it will work if i take 2 twisted pairs with common shield for Clock&Strobe or another combination.

Depending on cable length. I think it is OK to go with simple ribbon computer cable for up to several meters,
just hook it like strobe-gnd-clock-gnd-data-gnd.

Im still trying to figure out a way to just use one cable to my remote (+ my add on for the vu/ppms). A HDMI cable could possibly work, there i have 4 twisted pairs with shield/pair + a couple of extra wires for power.

Why not use 2xVGA's?