Racking Amek Einstein - Project COMPLETED!!!

[Didierterrific]

There's no Toroid 0V, I think you mean the Center Tap.

Yes, sorry for the bad vocabulary...

You should read the Rane links I provided, then it would be more clear

Yes, I try to understand, but at times I miss the basics...

 

[Didierterrific]

Hi Whoops,

Ok !
New try, as I think I understood the Rane Links. But maybe I'm wrong...
As you can see on my new layout, I connected all the Pins 1 to the chassis, and 0v and ground to the star point.
The signal is totaly clean !!

Is it ok for you ?

But this way the 48v doesn't work, I linked the Pin 1 of the mic input to the channel strip, it's working but there is a Hum...

Is there a way to improve this?

I didn't use the cap and resistor for the moment.


Thank you Whoops !

 

[Whoops]

I didn't use the cap and resistor for the moment.

Why not?
I tried to help mate, but you keep not doing what I advised.

Remove all 3 connections from Symetrizer module to Chassis
0V only connects to Chassis at one point,and one point only, and through a resistor and a CAP
If 0V from PSU is connected to Chassis and if PIN1 is connected to Chassis, then you should have 48V at pin2 and Pin3

 

[Whoops]

At the moment, without seeing the schematic for the Symetrix module I would do it like this:

Although if it was working perfectly before the way you did it, I dont see if there enough reasons reasons for changing it. But I would do the grounding this way and test it out

 

[Didierterrific]

At the moment, without seeing the schematic for the Symetrix module I would do it like this:

Although if it was working perfectly before the way you did it, I dont see if there enough reasons reasons for changing it. But I would do the grounding this way and test it out

You link Pins 1 to the Chassis bolt, is it the same with Pin 1 direct to chassis ?
Or do I need to unlink Pin 1 to chassis and connect them to chassis bolt ?
Thx

 

[Didierterrific]

At the moment, without seeing the schematic for the Symetrix module I would do it like this:

Although if it was working perfectly before the way you did it, I dont see if there enough reasons reasons for changing it. But I would do the grounding this way and test it out

So this way, I have the Phantom but there is a buzz.

 

[Whoops]

So this way, I have the Phantom but there is a buzz.

Well, I don't understand why.

Best thing to do is go back to the wiring were you had no Buzz and leave it like that and move on.
If it works and performs well , dont touch it

 

[Didierterrific]

Hi Whoops and everybody...
I finished my project !
All is ok now !!
I would like to thank Whoops for all his advice and responsiveness.
here is some final pictures. Front, back and inside ...

 

[Didierterrific]

Back

 

[Didierterrific]

Grounding

 

[Didierterrific]

inside

 

[Whoops]

Looks very nice

Congrats for your build

 

[the_inventor2]

Hey everyone!

My dad had a 32 channel AMEK Einstein back in the day, but he cut the frame and only kept 8. So there's 24 channels lying around and since I always wanted to get into this hobby, I decided to try racking a pair as my first DIY Audio project! (Plenty of room to screw up I guess..)
I am now based in the US, so the transformer would need to have a primary of 115V.. I did some digging around, and this is what I found:

https://www.newark.com/vigortronix/vtx-146-030-218/30va-toroidal-transformer-2x18v/dp/99AC4557
Does this look good to you?

Also, where did you guys get your PSU board? Is there a schematic out somewhere? I want to start by building the power supply, and I'll make it external! Looking forward to it, and thank you in advance!

 

[Whoops]

Hi,
The transformer you linked is perfectly good for this.

For PSU any PSU PCB with 3 rails will work, any that uses 78xx/79xx or LM317/LM337 regulators is fine.
You need a positive and negative rail for the + and - voltage supply, and then another positive rail for the +48v phantom power voltage.
There’s many pcbs for this around,
Check the White Market.

This was the first project I ever did in this forum, I didn’t knew much at the time and I was able to do it, had to learn a lot along the way for sure.

Have Fun

 

[Brian Roth]

@the_inventor2

This combo should work for the PSU for one or two modules:

https://www.antekinc.com/an-0218-25va-18v-transformer/
https://jlmaudio.com/shop/ac/dc-3-rail-power-supply-kit-v5-easy-mount.html?display_tax_prices=1
Of course, you'll need a metal case, AC mains cord and fuse and various other misc. parts.

Bri

 

[the_inventor2]

Thank you very much for your help, I really appreciate it!
For the PSU, I think I'll go with this one:

https://www.fivefishstudios.com/sho...roduct_id=81&search=PSU-2448+Power+Supply+Kit

 

[Brian Roth]

@the_inventor2

Since you have so many modules in hand and you are new to this whole process, I have a random idea for you.

Years ago a friend/client had some Trident 80B(C??) modules he had acquired from a desk that had suffered water damage from something like an overhead fire sprinkler system mishap. Some of the modules were not affected. But, the insurance company "totaled" the desk for the original owner.

We came up with this idea. Have a local wood cabinet builder build some wooden frames and I concocted the internal wiring and PSUs. Some pix below. Nope, NOT a rack mount, but usable as a "sidecar" item.

Only reason I'm suggesting this is a way to get into "racking" the modules as your first adventure. Getting into chopping down the circuit boards and panels for mounting into a 19" rack box is a Second Adventure! lol

 

[Brian Roth]

Thank you very much for your help, I really appreciate it!
For the PSU, I think I'll go with this one:

https://www.fivefishstudios.com/sho...roduct_id=81&search=PSU-2448+Power+Supply+Kit

Five Fish sells good products. They used to sell a less expensive 3 output version which I used several years ago. They are kind of "proud" with the price for their transformer....hence my suggestions.

And, besides me, folks on this forum also use/like JLM kits and Antek transformers.

Nevertheless, the FF products should be just fine at the higher price point.

Now you have the entire Rabbit Hole for the box, cables, mechanical hardware....etc etc....that goes with any of these kits! lol

Bri

 

[the_inventor2]

Hey all!

I have realized, that many of the Potentiometers in the channels are not working properly anymore. I believe they are OMEG Potis..
Does anyone know if and where you can still get replacements for the Einstein channels?

Thanks!

 

[Whoops]

I have realized, that many of the Potentiometers in the channels are not working properly anymore.

Are they Scratchy?


If they are scracthy you should do 2 things before thinking about replacing them,
Scratchy pots can be due to DC leakage in the Electrolytic capacitors, so do a ReCap of all the lytic caps, those modules are more than 30 years old, so it's a good idead to do recap job anyway.

It's this doesn't work, it's probably dirt on the carbon track and oxidation inside the pot, so use Deoxit D5 and spray it through the small opening on the back of each Pot, Rotate very well and many times the POT after spraying.

One of these should fix