rainton's P2P LA2A chassis "original style" discussion thread

GroupDIY Audio Forum

Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
audiosway said:
Hope I'm not stepping on anyone's toes here. If I am let me know and I'll move this to another thread. I bought one of the cases from the second run. Amazing case! I got it with a certain logo added on the front  ;). Unfortunately, I'm not able to build it because I'm selling to raise money for something personal that's happened to us.  So, I'm selling the case, which is mint condition, and as mentioned has a certain logo on it and the case looks perfect. I've also got a NOS UTC A-10 transformer and a NOS Triad power transformer still in the original box. I'm just selling them for what I paid for them. Just PM me. I'm posting this in the black market section also.  If this isn't an appropriate place for it please delete the post.

Case - $215 + shipping
A-24 - $149 + shipping
R4A power - $80 + shipping

PM'd  :)
 
Gambaholic said:
audiosway said:
Hope I'm not stepping on anyone's toes here. If I am let me know and I'll move this to another thread. I bought one of the cases from the second run. Amazing case! I got it with a certain logo added on the front  ;). Unfortunately, I'm not able to build it because I'm selling to raise money for something personal that's happened to us.  So, I'm selling the case, which is mint condition, and as mentioned has a certain logo on it and the case looks perfect. I've also got a NOS UTC A-10 transformer and a NOS Triad power transformer still in the original box. I'm just selling them for what I paid for them. Just PM me. I'm posting this in the black market section also.  If this isn't an appropriate place for it please delete the post.

Case - $215 + shipping
A-24 - $149 + shipping
R4A power - $80 + shipping

PM'd  :)
Just wanted to say that all of these parts are sold.
 
Hey guys,
I'm preparing a White Market thread at the moment where I'll offer my chassis, so I renamed this thread to remain the place to discuss all build related questions and discussion :)

Martin
 
Hi all,
I'm new on P2P projects, and i would like to know what do you use to insulate the turret board from the chassis... Thank you
 
hugo said:
Hi all,
I'm new on P2P projects, and i would like to know what do you use to insulate the turret board from the chassis... Thank you

In the vintage units they used something called fishpaper.

I used electrics insulation tape between chassis and turret board terminals and some used nuts as spacers...
 
Hi all,
Just to share my last build...not powered up yet...pray for me ^^
-A-10 input
-CC resistors 1w
-sowter output
-NOS sical output capacitor, the french touch
- tubes RCA, GE, VALVO, all NOS

Cheers!

Hugo
 
My unit works normaly except for the high freq, i have a substancial "roll off" (not sure about the term)..so high freq seems filtered even when no peak red... I used a 150pf orange drop in place of C4...Could it be that ?..
 
hugo said:
My unit works normaly except for the high freq, i have a substancial "roll off" (not sure about the term)..so high freq seems filtered even when no peak red... I used a 150pf orange drop in place of C4...Could it be that ?..

Yeah. I had to crank my C4 as high as it would go to prevent high frequency loss. Try a 380pf and see if it suits you.
 
Just a question. I'm gathering parts for an LA2A build, with one of Rainton's excellent chassis - when he has them in stock again. I've gathered the input/output transformers, and I'm sourcing other parts slowly.

I'm having a bit of trouble finding the right rotary switch for the GR/-4/+10 section. Of course there's the one from StudioElectronics but as you may know it's $72. http://www.studioelectronics.biz/sunshop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=4287

I'd like to stick with a ceramic rotary. I've found tons of them on eBay. But I can't seem to find a 3 position 2 pole switch that is a 45 degree angle turn.

For those that have already built with a ceramic rotary, is your switch rotating at 45 degrees? I believe the original must be a 45 degree angle, based on my menial analysis without having used a real LA2A - see attached.

Yeah, I'm obsessive but when turning the knob I'd like it to correctly point to the right position. Finding this combination so far has proven elusive.

What have you guys done about any of this? Or is a 60 degree angle turn what was on the original?

Thanks a lot,

Mike
 

Attachments

  • Screen Shot 2017-07-24 at 2.41.27 AM.jpg
    Screen Shot 2017-07-24 at 2.41.27 AM.jpg
    144.5 KB · Views: 26
I'm pretty sure the switch-angle is 30°
The vintage units used Centralab switches - those russian ceramic switches also work very well.
They might be a little harder to turn but that can be adjusted by bending the spring a little.

I attached a pic of an original unit and that's exactly how it looks on my own units...

 

Attachments

  • Bildschirmfoto 2017-07-24 um 12.03.46.png
    Bildschirmfoto 2017-07-24 um 12.03.46.png
    90.6 KB · Views: 25
rainton said:
I'm pretty sure the switch-angle is 30°
The vintage units used Centralab switches - those russian ceramic switches also work very well.
They might be a little harder to turn but that can be adjusted by bending the spring a little.

I attached a pic of an original unit and that's exactly how it looks on my own units...
Thanks Rainton. The pic is not dead on and it looks halfway between both angles.

What exact switch did you use? I guess I can just order a couple and try them after your next run of cases.

Thanks - your projects are exciting and inspiring.

Did you use the cayacosta wiring layou?
 
Phrazemaster said:
Just a question. I'm gathering parts for an LA2A build, with one of Rainton's excellent chassis - when he has them in stock again. I've gathered the input/output transformers, and I'm sourcing other parts slowly.

I'm having a bit of trouble finding the right rotary switch for the GR/-4/+10 section. Of course there's the one from StudioElectronics but as you may know it's $72. http://www.studioelectronics.biz/sunshop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=4287

I'd like to stick with a ceramic rotary. I've found tons of them on eBay. But I can't seem to find a 3 position 2 pole switch that is a 45 degree angle turn.

I've been hunting for the same parts, and I have a couple of observations related to the switches on ebay, that may help. 

The series of vintage Centralab switches I see most commonly are the PA-1000, PA-2000, and PS-100 series.  PA-1000 and PA-2000 are the same size and features, except PA-1000 use phenolic wafers, and PA-2000 ceramic, so if you want to stick with ceramic, PA-2000 is the way to go.  The PS-100 series are subminiature ceramic, and a little less flexible.  Most of these have 30 degree detents, but there are a few variations that use 60 degrees.

You may be aware of this, but one useful thing about both PA series is that they have a movable stop that allows you to use them "up to" a maximum number of positions, limited by the physical contacts on the wafer.  So, if you find a two pole six position (PA-2003, for example, with one deck that has two poles, up to 6 positions each), it is often listed as "2-6 positions," and then for the LA-2A, you would set the stop to only use the first 3 positions. 

The PA-2003 is a single deck with two poles on it, but we could also probably use a PA-2005, which has two decks with 12 poles each, and still just set the stop to allow the first 3 positions ("wasting" 9 positions on each deck, and assuming a two deck switch will fit behind the faceplate without bumping into any other internal components, which I haven't confirmed).

The PS series are sub-miniature ceramic, and as far as I know, don't have the movable stop, so in that case, we would need a fixed three position switch, like PS-109, which is 3 poles / 3 positions (and just ignore one of the poles).

The other thing you can even do, if you want to get really creative, is modify a switch with more decks by removing decks.  Usually switches with more decks are a lot more expensive, but I've sometimes found them cheap in surplus stores (where ridiculously large assemblies sometimes seem less useful), and they are pretty easy to disassemble.  For the LA-2A, with limited space inside, you might have to actually use a dremel cut-off disc or something like that to shorten the central flatted shaft that indexes to the contacts on each wafer, plus switch the screws the hold the decks together to be shorter, but it might be worth the hassle if the price is right.
 
Yes thanks Adadan. I had thought about removing switch decks. Also yes, I noted some of the switches have removable stops. I ordered a couple of USSR switches so I'll see if they might work.

I still maintain, just by using Adobe Illustrator and checking angles, that perhaps the correct angle for the switches may have been 45 degrees and not 30. I did find a Grayhill that would fit the bill, but I'm trying to make this be an authentic build.

I'll look into some of those Centralab options you shared. I bought a couple of the PA-2003's as suggested. If you find a "submit offer" button be sure to negotiate lower than the listed price; I saved $3/switch and I suspect I could have gone lower.

Thanks!
 
Glad to help!  I bought a PA-2003 too, but I'm not quite ready to start this build yet, I'm still getting a few small items together.  (I'll have to hunt down another PA-2003 before I can build a second LA-2A, but first I have to turn up a second UTC A-24 at an affordable price, which is going to be the hard part!)

One thing I probably should have also pointed out: the odd numbered Centralab PA part numbers are break-before-make (or "non-shorting"), and the even numbers are make-before-break (or "shorting").  So the PA-2003 is non-shorting, single deck, dual pole, 2-6 positions per pole.

I actually don't know if this has been discussed at length here for the LA-2A, but I gathered that in this position, we want a non-shorting switch, to avoid any accidental/momentary connection between the compressor output and the "gain reduction" meter signal created by the pin 5/6 photocell in the T4B. 

With a shorting switch in that position, there might be brief moments while moving the switch when the meter "gain reduction" signal would be connected across the compressor output, which doesn't seem good to me...
 
Adadan said:
Glad to help!  I bought a PA-2003 too, but I'm not quite ready to start this build yet, I'm still getting a few small items together.  (I'll have to hunt down another PA-2003 before I can build a second LA-2A, but first I have to turn up a second UTC A-24 at an affordable price, which is going to be the hard part!)

One thing I probably should have also pointed out: the odd numbered Centralab PA part numbers are break-before-make (or "non-shorting"), and the even numbers are make-before-break (or "shorting").  So the PA-2003 is non-shorting, single deck, dual pole, 2-6 positions per pole.

I actually don't know if this has been discussed at length here for the LA-2A, but I gathered that in this position, we want a non-shorting switch, to avoid any accidental/momentary connection between the compressor output and the "gain reduction" meter signal created by the pin 5/6 photocell in the T4B. 

With a shorting switch in that position, there might be brief moments while moving the switch when the meter "gain reduction" signal would be connected across the compressor output, which doesn't seem good to me...
Excellent observation. I would imagine BBM is what you want, and it's what I ordered.

Here's a link to another PA-2003 switch for you and anyone else who wants one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Centralab-PA-2003-Non-Shorting-Steatite-2-POLE-6-POSITION-NEW-IN-BOX-/361900770218?hash=item5442f783aa:g:JW8AAOSwLEtYm6GU

I made an offer for $15. It was an automated response, instantly accepted. If I was buying it again I'd try for $13 and see if it was accepted. Note: if you're going to submit multiple offers - trying say $10, then $11, then $12, understand eBay only gives you 3 tries and then you're out. So I would try two low-ball offers first, and if they fail, you already know that $15/ea will be accepted.

HTH and thanks for the great discussions!

Mike
 
Phrazemaster said:
I'm having a bit of trouble finding the right rotary switch for the GR/-4/+10 section.

Not in for a debate. If you prefer a certain switch of course you should get it!  :) Just wanted to mention I got this for $2.50
https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/switch-rotary-3-poles-3-position
 
Unit7 said:
Not in for a debate. If you prefer a certain switch of course you should get it!  :) Just wanted to mention I got this for $2.50
https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/switch-rotary-3-poles-3-position
It looks solid. I ended up getting the same switch used in the original off eBay for a good rather low price too. It’s a Centralab; I believe the part number is in this thread.

I also found some killer diller Russian switches that put them all to shame: I’m probably going to use those!
 
BluegrassDan said:
Yeah. I had to crank my C4 as high as it would go to prevent high frequency loss. Try a 380pf and see if it suits you.

Closely related? On later revisions of the circuit's schematic, there is an identical (50-380 pf) variable cap with the designation C14. I'm assuming it has the same function as C4.
What would be the proper setting for this cap? Would I be better off just not going with a variable cap and replacing it with a 380pf to pass full frequencies?
 
Back
Top