rainton's True To The Original PULTEC EQP1-A chassis kit discussion thread

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core13

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there is still mistakes about the turrets

on the layout we can see
4X1P
2X2P
1X3P

in the bom there is only 1X2P and the 3P is not mentioned
https://www.mouser.fr/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=809virtualkey53400000virtualkey534-809
 

rainton

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core13 said:
there is still mistakes about the turrets

on the layout we can see
4X1P
2X2P
1X3P

in the bom there is only 1X2P and the 3P is not mentioned
https://www.mouser.fr/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=809virtualkey53400000virtualkey534-809

Thanks a lot!!
Fixed
 

hugo

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0.25uf amp caps are marked 500v, but what is the max current here ? Is it possible to use 200v caps there ?
Thank you
 

kosi

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No, you need 400V,  the peak voltage across this cap will be over 350V

hugo said:
0.25uf amp caps are marked 500v, but what is the max current here ? Is it possible to use 200v caps there ?
Thank you
 

hugo

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Yes thank you...i just asked because on the la-2a the output capacitor is 450v and can be replaced by 250v... Thank you very much !
 

core13

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is it ok to use 0,22uf instead of 0,25?
what did you use please?

the 0,33 across the can capacitor need to be polypro or electrolytic?

what did you use for
-270 pf interstage
-20 pf plate
-3,3nf output


thank you

 

hugo

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core13 said:
is it ok to use 0,22uf instead of 0,25?
what did you use please?

the 0,33 across the can capacitor need to be polypro or electrolytic?

what did you use for
-270 pf interstage
-20 pf plate
-3,3nf output


thank you

270pf and 20pf i used mica  3.3nf i used clarity cap polypro...fits well.
 

salomonander

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Hey,
Maybe someone can help me here. Im wondering if i could get away with a 1x12 for the high end selection.... Could i connect the one wafer rotary directly to the caps and those directly to the inductor taps or am i missing something? Cheers
 

hugo

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Hi all, regarding filter caps, is there a best orientation for polarized caps ? Which wires do you recommend...i plan to go with awg ptfe silver plated ? any advice ?
Thank you
 

kosi

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salomonander said:
hi,
i cant see moltenows picture. thanks though and i take that as a "yes"?

I don't think so ! How do you manage the connected positions ?
Have a look at Vintage Wirings Wiring guide. 
Deck one, Pos 1 (3k) is connected to 18n. Deck One, Pos 2 (4K)is also connected to 18n. But you use 2 different windings of the filter in this example. When you solder them directly, you connect also the 3 and 4k winding, so you will have the same connection on Pos 1 and 2, if I'm thinking correct.
 

hugo

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My URSS nos switches are really really hard to turn, which switchs were used on original units ? I have to tight so much, some paint has been removed by the switch washers...
 

salomonander

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kosi said:
I don't think so ! How do you manage the connected positions ?
Have a look at Vintage Wirings Wiring guide. 
Deck one, Pos 1 (3k) is connected to 18n. Deck One, Pos 2 (4K)is also connected to 18n. But you use 2 different windings of the filter in this example. When you solder them directly, you connect also the 3 and 4k winding, so you will have the same connection on Pos 1 and 2, if I'm thinking correct.

hey Kosi,
thanks. you are right. but i guess i could simply use two 18nf and two 8,2nf caps... that would still be lots cheaper than using a double 1x12 switch. plus the cable lenght would be diminished by half. please correct me if im wrong :)
 

salomonander

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hugo said:
My URSS nos switches are really really hard to turn, which switchs were used on original units ? I have to tight so much, some paint has been removed by the switch washers...

all those URSS switches are rubbish. i had to learn the hard way. ordered 6 different types for a neve build and all were like yours. they are just poorly designed. i assume the original used something like mallorys or centralab. i dont know for sure though. and i do not know if they feel any better. im using elmas on my build.
 

kosi

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that's good thinking !

salomonander said:
hey Kosi,
thanks. you are right. but i guess i could simply use two 18nf and two 8,2nf caps... that would still be lots cheaper than using a double 1x12 switch. plus the cable lenght would be diminished by half. please correct me if im wrong :)
 

kosi

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I took a screwdriver and bowed the "double metal spring" back pretty drastic, and now, most of them behave "good".
But I'm also not superhappy about the action. But on the other hand: it works and I don't want to spend any more time and money.

hugo said:
My URSS nos switches are really really hard to turn, which switchs were used on original units ? I have to tight so much, some paint has been removed by the switch washers...
 

salomonander

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kosi said:
I took a screwdriver and bowed the "double metal spring" back pretty drastic, and now, most of them behave "good".
But I'm also not superhappy about the action. But on the other hand: it works and I don't want to spend any more time and money.

ill try that on my neve switches. good thinking on your side :) brute force!
 

kosi

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Here they are, btw. first studio test drive  ;D
Finished the second one yesterday and they behave very nice. The sound is absolutely fantastic !

Biggest thing at the moment: The right one is 2db lower than the first one

Will play with tubes
 
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