The official GroupDIY 511 Help & Support Thread

[geoff004]

[quote author=[silent:arts]
the only difference between 500 and 51X is the 18pin card edge connector.
which is a problem with some fully enclosure modules.
[/quote]

This morning I pulled the side off the rack so I could take a closer look at what was happening with the Chandler.
It appears that the 18 pin connector is keeping the module from seating as far down as it wants to go.
In this instance, pulling the metal chassis off from around the module doesn't help.  I'm not sure I want to try to change the 18 pin connector to a 15 pin connector either.

Unless I can find a decent way to grind down the connector I'll probably just live with it.
The unit's been working just fine with the gap.
Thanks for helping me sort this out.

 

[Denyle Guitars]

I was looking at mine last night and wondering if it might be hitting those jumper pins. Looks like you have it figured out now though.

 

[[silent:arts]]

This morning I pulled the side off the rack so I could take a closer look at what was happening with the Chandler.
It appears that the 18 pin connector is keeping the module from seating as far down as it wants to go.

could you please do a photo?

 

[geoff004]

I also thought about the jumpers being in the way - you can see they're bent over.
With the 15 pin connector they might actually be in the way.
I don't think I'm up to the task of unsoldering the connector though.

 

[[silent:arts]]

thanks for the pic

...
In this instance, pulling the metal chassis off from around the module doesn't help.

I think it would. it is only the metal chassis which doesn't fit.
unless they did a PCB shape which spares out the 15 pin connector.
any chance for a pic of the "naked" module?
card edge without metal would be enough.

 

[zayance]

Wow, those PCB pins look pretty long, i tought of using long ones, but i've tried with normal ones, doesn't go thru but it was easy enough for soldering, at least i will not have that kind of problem of bending it, because it's not even passing the depth of the connector on my side.
But the picture clearly shows that the metal case is on the way of the card on the bottom side, so seems like it will not be straight on the front side  ???, if you really don't think of selling this one, then maybe dremel the hole a little longer so the card will not be on the way????, not very nice tough  :

 

[geoff004]

...
In this instance, pulling the metal chassis off from around the module doesn't help.

I think it would. it is only the metal chassis which doesn't fit.
unless they did a PCB shape which spares out the 15 pin connector.
any chance for a pic of the "naked" module?
card edge without metal would be enough.

The problem is the chassis holds a lot of the thing together.  Under the first layer is another piece of metal holding the edge connector of the PCB and one of the transformers.  There's not a lot to see either.  Basically the pots and switches and transformers, and then a large potted box with the goods in it.

 

[ultra-alex]

finally ready for action! now i need to fill the slots...  ;D
thanks, mates! cheers, alex

 

[[silent:arts]]

nice custom blank panels - what will you do with them once the rack is filled ???
and Jeffs MicPres - do I see a phantom power LED added ;D

cool! 8) 8) 8)

 

[ultra-alex]

nice custom blank panels - what will you do with them once the rack is filled ???

put them in the next 511... ;D ;D ;D

and Jeffs MicPres - do I see a phantom power LED added ;D

jep, but actually it´s still a hole. 

 

[unlikekurt]

Is 22AWG wire adequate for wiring the PSU connector to the pcb?

 

[Curran]

I have an Old School Audio 11 space 500 series rack and PSU. the PSU has two four pin XLR power hook ups. i am using one of them for the 500 rack and I would like to know how I can test the 2nd four pin XLR to figure out how to use it for one of the DIY51x racks. from what I can tell you guys are using a 7pin hook up for power, I am not gonna need the 24v power since I am really only using the rack for the classic api stuff from Jeff. any help or info will be awesome!!!

 

[unlikekurt]

Some of my neutrik jacks do not fit in the back panel cutouts.  The only thing I can think of doing is to open up the holes a little bit to allow the jack to fit.  But, this will take off the powdercoating and create a contact between the jack and chassis.  After looking over the pcb, I realized that the only physical connection between "chassis" and the board is from the female neutriks, but that they do not make contact because of the powdercoating.  Is the chassis contact made on the PSU chassis and carried over by the cable?  If so, how can I make my neutriks fit the panel without creating a contact?

Thanks.

 

[babyhead]

I have an Old School Audio 11 space 500 series rack and PSU. the PSU has two four pin XLR power hook ups. i am using one of them for the 500 rack and I would like to know how I can test the 2nd four pin XLR to figure out how to use it for one of the DIY51x racks. from what I can tell you guys are using a 7pin hook up for power, I am not gonna need the 24v power since I am really only using the rack for the classic api stuff from Jeff. any help or info will be awesome!!!

Open up the PSU and take a look at. Then take a look at sahib's PSU. In the OSA PSU you wont find a single heatsink. With all of Jeff's stuff, the max a card will draw is <60ma so you could be alright, but all of these cool 500 projects that use more than a single opamp may load you down. Is your 11 space rack filled? Fire it up, send all of your preamps into clipping with a sine wave and see if the PSU starts to get hot. I would be more interested in ditching the OSA and building the GDIY with  4 pin and 7 pin connections. Everything is an extension of the PSU.

 

[Sammas]

They do not have enough clearance on the inside .
Unless there is a shorter part you have  a number for?

Holger did it, and regarding my CAD drawing it should work:

as mentioned it has to be mounted from the outside.

Just a note on this,

If you are only using the +/-16v, and 48v rails you can fit the neutriks connector inside the case. Use bus wire to create "PCB pins" off the back of the connector (keep the pins long. 2 inches + and cut them all slightly different lengths. It will help you position the PCB on the back panel easily). Bolt the PSU XLR to the backpanel before putting the PCB and back panel together.

You will only need to use 5 pins. The "solo" via hole at the bottom of the XLR silk screening on the pcb is a duplicate of the chassis ground. +16v, -16v, 48v, Ground and chassis ground all occur on the 5 via holes in that sort of half-circle shape.

 

[sahib]

Some of my neutrik jacks do not fit in the back panel cutouts.  The only thing I can think of doing is to open up the holes a little bit to allow the jack to fit.  But, this will take off the powdercoating and create a contact between the jack and chassis.  After looking over the pcb, I realized that the only physical connection between "chassis" and the board is from the female neutriks, but that they do not make contact because of the powdercoating.  Is the chassis contact made on the PSU chassis and carried over by the cable?  If so, how can I make my neutriks fit the panel without creating a contact?

Thanks.

It really should not be the case but I know where you went wrong.
Although it is in the earlier posts on this thread I gave special instructions on how to assemble the kit. You should solder only one pin at a time of each connector. Then mount the pcb onto the back panel and screw all the connectors, then solder the remaining pins. Otherwise there will be a natural drift . The connectors should sit onto the pcb perfectly parallel. You may have to de-solder the connectors. Filing the backplane is not a good idea.

 

[[silent:arts]]

If you are only using the +/-16v, and 48v rails you can fit the neutriks connector inside the case. Use bus wire to create "PCB pins" off the back of the connector (keep the pins long. 2 inches + and cut them all slightly different lengths. It will help you position the PCB on the back panel easily). Bolt the PSU XLR to the backpanel before putting the PCB and back panel together.

You will only need to use 5 pins. The "solo" via hole at the bottom of the XLR silk screening on the pcb is a duplicate of the chassis ground. +16v, -16v, 48v, Ground and chassis ground all occur on the 5 via holes in that sort of half-circle shape.

if you only want the VPR voltages easiest is to just use the according 5 pin neutrik like silkscreened on the PCB ;D
we supply this on request, like we do with the 15 pin card edge connectors

 

[Sammas]

argh yes, but once a 15 pin api rack, always a 15 pin api rack. At least this way it only regards a small addition to operate at +/-24v

 

[[silent:arts]]

argh yes, but once a 15 pin api rack, always a 15 pin api rack. At least this way it only regards a small addition to operate at +/-24v

true - it won't be fun desoldering the card edge connectors

 

[unlikekurt]

It really should not be the case but I know where you went wrong.
Although it is in the earlier posts on this thread I gave special instructions on how to assemble the kit. You should solder only one pin at a time of each connector. Then mount the pcb onto the back panel and screw all the connectors, then solder the remaining pins. Otherwise there will be a natural drift . The connectors should sit onto the pcb perfectly parallel. You may have to de-solder the connectors. Filing the backplane is not a good idea.

Sahib:
No, I haven't soldered any neutriks to the pcb yet.  In preparation I took one male and one female connector and dry fit them into each back panel cutout.  There are four holes (2 male / 2 female - where channel 1 and 2 are) where the connectors simply do not properly fit through the holes.  There are also two other holes where they fit but require some extra thumb force applied to the back of the connector.  Again, no soldering performed at all.  Almost as if the powdercoat is built up in those holes or something? 

James