The official GroupDIY 511 Help & Support Thread

[sahib]

Got it. This should not be the case either. Is yours from the first or second batch?

If it is a paint build up, a light scrub with a fine sand paper (800-1000 grit) will solve the problem.

 

[unlikekurt]

The first batch.  Ok.  I'll try a light sanding.  Trying to maintain the powdercoat between the chassis and the jack?
So, should there no contact between the neutrik / pcb and the physical "chassis" plane?

 

[sahib]

So far you are the only one reporting a problem like this. It must be a paint build up. As i said a light scrub will sort it out without actually taking the paint completely off.

I don't think there will be a problem if you have the chassis contact.

 

[unlikekurt]

The 1K grit, a little bit of elbow grease, and some old fashion force did the trick.

 

[TomWaterman]

Hey just about to finish my rack off.

Had a few spare BAE supplies kicking it around and want to use one as not needing the +/-24V for the first rack. It is a 4-pin xlr out.

Thinking of using the following locking lumberg connector on the rack seems to fit the 20mm mounting centres and gives me some depth.

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=5332526
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=6989195

Question: You guys are recommending a 5-pin to bring chassis ground back... do you think I should go 5 and replace the BAE XLR with a 5-pin and tie chassis ground at the psu or do you think I can get away with the chassis grounded at the 51X rack and use a 4-pin?

Also the molex 8-way, these are crimp only, does anyone have a link to a cheap crimp tool for these SPOX connectors?

Cheers Tom

 

[Echo North]

Done!

(sorry for the crappy pic.  Trust me the LEDs are glowing nicely)

Finally finished my 51x rack and PSU today.  I was lucky enough to get an enclosure and parts from Cemal. Everything works great!  I also built a 312 kit from Jeff which is sounding awesome.

I have to say the 312 and the 51x rack and supply were a joy to build.  It was a lot of fun and a very rewarding project.  Thanks to Cemal, Jeff and Volker for all the hard work.  All the parts are top notch!

Mike

 

[sahib]

Mike,

Great stuff. Although I can't see the picture I am sure it looks good.


Tom,

That is a nice connector. I don't know why I did not notice it. I would normally say use it for both the 511 and the psu but if you have something in your stock you might as well use it. Connector is a connector.  Saves you money.

In terms of crimp tool I am using a cheap one from Radio Shack which is great.

 

[TomWaterman]

Looking great mike!!

Cemal, I think the connector is a new part! I'm ordering some to see how they are! Nice price and ratings.

BAE supply is just +/-15V power one linears. Do you think I should bring chassis ground back to the supply via its own path and link to PSU chassis common in star ground or just link in the connector or rack?

Kinda wishing I had the cash to upgrade the BAE to your supply!

-Tom

 

[sahib]

Hi Tom,

That linear is a good design. Why would you change that? I would keep it and make an additional one for + -24V.

PSU comon is the circuit common. I don't see any point in connecting that to the chassis neither on psu nor on 511 connector.

 

[TomWaterman]

Yeah the design is good. Solid supplies, just wish I could get one of your sexy gold ones! lol

OK, so what do you suggest I do in terms of connecting the chassis ground? In holgers pics with your PSU I see he brought it back to the star at the PSU case.... maybe I'm being retarded?

Thanks!
Tom

 

[[silent:arts]]

just connect GND and Chassis in the case.
while it is theoretically better in the PSU I don't see any problem.
we will hear ;D

 

[TomWaterman]

Ah cool, OK keep it simple.

Thanks!

-T

 

[Echo North]

I do have a question.

I didn't build a 7 pin cable, I actually had one laying around from an old tube mic.

On my cable the pin I have assigned to ground (the shield) is also attached to the xlr casing tab on both ends of the cable.  This means ground is connected to the chassis at both XLR connection points.  I'm worried that having the ground also attached to the chassis at each end is negating my star ground.

What would be the best practice here?  Keep the ground and chassis ground separate from the XLR casing that way they only meet at the start ground? 

Thanks,

Mike

 

[Echo North]

Wait,

I think I just basically asked what Tom asked.  Maybe I should read theses posts ^

I'm going to remove the ground from the tab.

Mike

 

[TomWaterman]

seems to be similar to my question. I think the best possible solution is to only join in one place, using the star. Another question on a similar note, is a shielded power cable essential or would any normal mutlicore cable do as long as it meets the v/a spec using one of the cores for common?

-T

 

[TomWaterman]

lol

 

[Echo North]

lol

Yes that was one of my dumber posts and there are a few.  

 

[unlikekurt]

I finally got around to putting together the metal work for my rack this morning.
After putting the top, bottom and sides together I found that it was impossible to get the back panel on.
The screw holes would line up perfectly on only 3 edges (top, bottom, and one side).
Did anyone else experience this problem?

I was able to get it together by attaching everything to the back panel and then screwing the sides to the top/bottom.
However it seems like things aren't exactly "square", that (excuse the pun) it is somewhat racked, if only by maybe 1/8".
I believe I have found the source of the problem to be that on one edge of one side of both the top and bottom panels the flange is at an obtuse angle and not 90 and it is putting some flex into the frame as a whole.

Square Flange

Bent Flange

When I began inserting modules I found that it required pulling the bottom to the left in order to get the screw holes to line up.  And the module in the first position does not not meet up flush with the rack ear.  At the top it does, but at the bottom there is roughly a 1/16" space.

Are these simply "metalwork isn't perfect" things or should I be doing something to relieve this?

Thanks

 

[RedNoise]

I had the same problem.I just corrected the 90 angles to 90° and everything fit then nicely.
My x cts.

 

[sahib]

I must confess that I discussed this issue with Red which I thought he was wrong, but seeing the second close up picture I can see the problem. The fold is not at right angle.

Some side panels may have had this problem but I can assure you that this is only the second one that we have been made aware of, unless people were polite and did not point out. Otherwise we had many many positive feedback.

If you don't think it is acceptable please e-mail me and I will send you a new side panel immediately.