All things G1176 - the new "repost" thread.

[Whoops]

The Case I'm using is 3,9cm / 1.5"  high.

I'm looking for the Sifam Al19M or AL19B in the Canford website but can't find them there.

If I look for meters in Farnell what should be the sepcs to look for?

thanks

 

[MartyMart]

Give canford a call, I got AL19B's from them a while ago  but they had to order them in.
They don't stock them so not on the site.

MM.

 

[mac]

Hi all,
I am building a version of the dual 1176 on mnats rev J boards, and already had decided upon using lorlin switches and mnats ratio boards.

Therefore I had already understood that I could not achieve the "all buttons" function with this setup. I remember reading the ratio of "all" somewhere but cant find it now (was like 1:2500 or something - being the sum of all the resistors for the four ratios as I understand it).

However, is it possible to modify the ratio board so that the lorlins fifth switch position can provide another ratio and just use a resistor with correct value to achieve somewhere near the ratio of "all buttons"?

I guess I am just concerned that due to budget and trying to use the parts I have - I may be limiting the potential usability of my unit, and i dont have enough experience using original 1176's to know if not building in the "all" function is poor judgement.

Regards,
Mac  

 

[goldenGeek]

Hello!
I`m trying to troubleshoot my 1176 (built on a PCB from Gustav). The problem is that it doesn`t compress, and the levels are varying every time it`s powered up. I`m tring to learn how to use my scope, and I`m feeding a 1k sine to the input. I get a sine also on the output, but as I said the level vary from time to time its powered up. I`ve disconnected the OEP output iron just to rule that out (it did make the signal about half in power from before the transformer, but that`s varying with the "normal" signal strength so I guess that`s fair enough).

Should I read a clear sine at the attack pot? I read a fine sine on the rest of the pots though. It seems like there`s something happening around the 333-diodes... anyone who maybe has a hint for me?

Thanks

 

[MartyMart]

Hi all,
I am building a version of the dual 1176 on mnats rev J boards, and already had decided upon using lorlin switches and mnats ratio boards.

Therefore I had already understood that I could not achieve the "all buttons" function with this setup. I remember reading the ratio of "all" somewhere but cant find it now (was like 1:2500 or something - being the sum of all the resistors for the four ratios as I understand it).

However, is it possible to modify the ratio board so that the lorlins fifth switch position can provide another ratio and just use a resistor with correct value to achieve somewhere near the ratio of "all buttons"?

I guess I am just concerned that due to budget and trying to use the parts I have - I may be limiting the potential usability of my unit, and i dont have enough experience using original 1176's to know if not building in the "all" function is poor judgement.

Regards,
Mac  

Mac, it's not possible to do with the standard Lorlin but have a look at mnats site, there's a SLAM mode
mod for the "all buttons in" that uses a DPDT switch IIRC.
Have tried that mode and it's totally OTT for me, I would never use it to be honest, I think it's just one of
those "producer myths" to keep us guessing !!

Marty.

 

[diyfanatic]

hi Guys!

I finally found some time to work on my 1176, everything's soldered and I will start the wiring...

I use the bank switch and configured the meter board as follow: GR/+8/+4/OFF
I realised that my 25k attack pot as no switch for GR disabling and I can't find one in France for a decent price...

no issue using a normal pot and a SPDT switch instead?
or maybe connecting GRN --->22, no disabling but it should work while I'll finally found a good pot? (maybe the better solution since a new hole in my front pannel make me sick)

oh and BTW:
there's two x pads on the metering board (Hairball) if I understand well I just need to wire the first to the board an the second to the first, is that right?

cheers.
Jr.

 

[skal1]

Hello!
I`m trying to troubleshoot my 1176 (built on a PCB from Gustav). The problem is that it doesn`t compress, and the levels are varying every time it`s powered up. I`m tring to learn how to use my scope, and I`m feeding a 1k sine to the input. I get a sine also on the output, but as I said the level vary from time to time its powered up. I`ve disconnected the OEP output iron just to rule that out (it did make the signal about half in power from before the transformer, but that`s varying with the "normal" signal strength so I guess that`s fair enough).

Should I read a clear sine at the attack pot? I read a fine sine on the rest of the pots though. It seems like there`s something happening around the 333-diodes... anyone who maybe has a hint for me?

Thanks

Hey have you inserted your fet's the right way round ,i had the same problem untill i changed the fet's round. if you are using a bf245 ,insert that fet  as is into the board ,i f you are using  a 2n5457 tun it around so as the oval edge is in line with straight edge on the board.

skal1

 

[goldenGeek]

Hey have you inserted your fet's the right way round ,i had the same problem untill i changed the fet's round. if you are using a bf245 ,insert that fet  as is into the board ,i f you are using  a 2n5457 tun it around so as the oval edge is in line with straight edge on the board.

skal1

I think they are the right way, I`m using BF245 the way it shows on the PCB. I also built another 1176 last year but that one was working right away so I didn`t get any chance to learn troubleshooting then Maybe I should unmount the opld 1176 from the rack and start comparing the scope readouts? Or should I just start changing the transistors? (I`ve ordered new ones)

 

[skal1]

@goldenGeek

Do not think ,check if they are the right way round  and also, compare your voltages with the ones in the first post of this thread from Q12 to q15.

is your meter showing out level ?

skal1

 

[diyfanatic]

I use the bank switch and configured the meter board as follow: GR/+8/+4/OFF
I realised that my 25k attack pot as no switch for GR disabling and I can't find one in France for a decent price...

no issue using a normal pot and a SPDT switch instead?
or maybe connecting GRN --->22, no disabling but it should work while I'll finally found a good pot? (maybe the better solution since a new hole in my front pannel make me sick)

oh and BTW:
there's two x pads on the metering board (Hairball) if I understand well I just need to wire the first to the board an the second to the first, is that right?

bump

 

[mac]

Mac, it's not possible to do with the standard Lorlin but have a look at mnats site, there's a SLAM mode
mod for the "all buttons in" that uses a DPDT switch IIRC.
Have tried that mode and it's totally OTT for me, I would never use it to be honest, I think it's just one of
those "producer myths" to keep us guessing !!

Marty.

Hey Marty, Thanks for the response - (and sorry to the others trying to carry on conversations at the same time  - this "all things" thread is a challenge sometimes).

Yeah I was aware of using a twin deck pot and wiring it appropriately - I have dutifully read all of Mako's docs - I was just trying to use parts I had in stock to minimise costs. I guess my point was that it didnt seem too hard to mod the ratio board and provide one more really high ratio (even if it isnt wired to correctly provide the proper "all in" outcome).

I was comparing the original schematic to the Geoffs AXT systems drawing which shows the additional ratios and was just thinking maybe configuring an additional ratio that was off the charts would be similar to the craziness of the "all in" function.

But as you say, i have read many peoples comments that they find it hard to believe that the "all in" function would be used much. Mostly l am tracking classical - folk duos and a few harder funk bands so I am not sure when I would need to do something that extreme to a signal !!

Mac.

 

[goldenGeek]

@goldenGeek

Do not think ,check if they are the right way round  and also, compare your voltages with the ones in the first post of this thread from Q12 to q15.

is your meter showing out level ?

skal1

Sorry about that one, I`m a bit rusty at english so I guess I was quite sloppy there. I KNOW that it`s the right way My meter shows the output level, but from time to time it seems like the levels get stronger or weaker without turning any knobs, and sometimes the sine wave gets distorted (the tops and bottoms gets flat, I guess this is distortion..?).

I will check those voltages as you suggested. Thanks so far

 

[gswan]

Sorry about that one, I`m a bit rusty at english so I guess I was quite sloppy there. I KNOW that it`s the right way My meter shows the output level, but from time to time it seems like the levels get stronger or weaker without turning any knobs, and sometimes the sine wave gets distorted (the tops and bottoms gets flat, I guess this is distortion..?).

Sounds more like a bad solder joint in the first gain stage causing it to lose the feedback and clip.

 

[mac]

Does anyone else have any words of wisdom? Is an addtitional super high ratio as easy as spinning the lock nut on my Lorlin one more place, a few cuts on the ratio board, and some additional resistors, or am I fooling myself that it could be this easy.

;D Mac.

 

[gswan]

I think you would need an extra pole. What is the rotary switch you are using (3pole 4way)?

Electrically the effect of pushing the 4:1 and 20:1 switches together is the same as pushing all 4 together.

There are two parts to the ratio switch.
1. The signal from the output pot is fed via a divider to the input of the GR amp. Pushing the 4:1 and 20:1 feeds the signal from the 56K resistor to the GR amp, with the 4:1 switch shorting teh divider, placing a 47K resistor to GND. So you are getting slightly less than half the signal into the GR amp.

2. The -ve offset applied to the rectifier and Qbias is upset when the 4:1 and 20:1 switches are pushed together. This is probably the most noticeable part of the effect, since it will probably cause the top of the signal waveform to be squashed as saturation is reached earlier.

Using a double pole switch to short out parts of the resistor dividers would achieve the same effect.

 

[mac]

Thanks Geoff,
So perhaps I could use the fifth position on my Lorlin to trigger a small relay that shorts the relevant parts of the 4:1 and 20:1 resistor dividers.

I may experiment with this...but first to get these boards off my bench and working.

Mac.

 

[gswan]

Only with another free pole, since the two poles are already committed to other signals and cannot be used to switch a relay.

 

[Whoops]

About the  "ALL mode" / "SLAM" / "ALL Buttons In"

Just to let you know that I use this function all the time, I find it really useful.
It gets used also a lot in the studio I work by other engineers.

the effect being extreme or not it just depends on the way you use it. If you don't have tons of gain reduction it can be subtle, if you use it has parallel compression you can also use the fader to mix it with the original signal and just add character.


Actually have 4 x 1176 original units in the studio, 2 of them are always locked with the buttons ALL In, and get used in every mix that leaves the studio, really they are used in all the mixes.
They are connected in parallel to the Drums mix bus, it gives Punch-ness, character and attack.

just my 2 cents...

 

[skal1]

ok finally made my first 11xxn work like a charm, the only thing i do not like is the oep role top end role off , to dark for me , i have try the 2.4k resistor across out put no real change also try no termination same as 2.4k termination.
i am using oep 1+1:2+2  configuration ,is this the right way for me to achieve full bandwidth, or should i chose a differrent tx to achieve the  full bandwidth .

any suggestions on transformers welcome.

skal1

 

[mac]

Actually have 4 x 1176 original units in the studio, 2 of them are always locked with the buttons ALL In, and get used in every mix that leaves the studio, really they are used in all the mixes.
They are connected in parallel to the Drums mix bus, it gives Punch-ness, character and attack.

just my 2 cents...

Hey Whoops,
thanks for your insights. Yes, I am afraid that i dont have the experience with original units to make this judgement call, and I was keen to gain the opinion of others. I just didnt want to splash solder all over my ratio boards and abandon the "all" function if it means i am missing out on something special, and want to try and desolder them down the track.

Mac..