All things G1176 - the new "repost" thread.

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[quote author="astrovic"]I take it you meant -10, not -30?

I checked for -10 after R85 rather than checking after the 1N4003's. This is the spot to check - see here. I'd work through the first part of this dealing with getting the PSU section right to see if it throws any light on your situation.[/quote]If I measure after R85 I would surely want -10, but if I measure right after the diodes, with nothing but the diodes and transformer in the circut, I don´t understand why I shouldn´t have -30?, well I have another board and another transformer so I´ll just build the PSU up on that one and see what I get. Thanks for the link, very informative. :thumb:
 
I changed the 1N4003s cleaned up the soldering and replaced the TL072 that I had installed in the 071 socket :oops: unit is working!!!! I had a feeling that something wasn´t quite right with it soundwise but now it´s behaving much more like I expected it to.
 
Hi!
I hope you guys don't mind answering this question one more time.
After good success and little problems with mass around in/out circuitry on Gyraf's GSSL i'm buying pcb for 1176. I would like to know if all problems with Gyraf's boards for 1176 are now solved.
Thanks in advance!
Miha
 
Mnats specifies a 2.2M carbon resistor for R7 and R9, while Jacob's and Greg's parts lists don't specify metal or carbon. Is there any reason or benefit in using a carbon resistor here?
 
hi MattiasC,
just use whatever you have. generally metal film are used because they have lower tolerances (usually 1%) and are less noisey than carbon film, but it really shouldn't matter in just R7 and R9. Just use which ever is more available to you.
regards,
grant
 
is there any danger in having the heatsink of the 7825 touching the top plate of the box? I´m building in 1U case and things are getting tight.
 
I'd make sure your 7825 is isolated from the heatsink with a mica washer or similar. Otherwise the centre pin will be shorting to ground.
 
Thanks again, Sintech. I'm a noob, so forgive me if these questions seem redundant.

The potentiometers have a metal tab which I assume is there to attach to the faceplate. Is the only way to attach it to drill a hole? I don't want to risk cutting through the front of the faceplate. What are my options here? I'm about 5 seconds from cutting that sucker off.

mail1uj5.jpg
 
[quote author="MattiasC"]Thanks again, Sintech. I'm a noob, so forgive me if these questions seem redundant.

The potentiometers have a metal tab which I assume is there to attach to the faceplate. Is the only way to attach it to drill a hole? I don't want to risk cutting through the front of the faceplate. What are my options here? I'm about 5 seconds from cutting that sucker off.

mail1uj5.jpg
[/quote]

I cut them off 99% of the time... go for it. Won't hurt a thing. Just tighten the nut as firm as you can so the pot doesn't spin :wink:

Kevin
 
Well, I had mine up and working for a short time. Thanks for all the help here. It definitely added some cool character. Unfortunately, I fried R89 while trying to measure the VU meter voltage. I don't know if the 7824 is cooked as well, but hopefully not. Any advice at this stage?
 
Changed the 7824 and r89 and everything is back to normal. Thanks to Sintech, Mnats, Bill Putnam, and especially Jakob for putting it all together.
 
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