BrickByBrick
Member
I was quoted $170 each. Of course that won’t cover shipping. Still waiting for the holiday festivities to blow over and I’ll have more info.
D47 Fet New Body Style PCB now available
- Thread starter poctop
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BrickByBrick
Member
From the looks of it I’ll order everything and then ship it out. I’m in NYC. Seems like a lot of people are interested and I’m worried about the up front costs I’ll have to absorb to do this. I’m waiting on an email response from Jenny before moving forward on this.
I will buy 2.
There should be a special page or form within this forum software for group buys where people can sign up. Something more organized and with greater commitment than one of these threads with people randomly chiming in with "I'll take one". I don't envy anyone trying to organize one of these group buys with this way of doing it.
Is there a site admin who could maybe look into a form plugin or at least a forum section for group buys? I've done a small amount of website work for my own websites and have seen all the offerings in Softaculous that you can install on your site and there might be a plugin that could be installed that would interface with the forum software (zenforo).
Just a thought since the idea of group buys is a good one considering the OEMs don't want to deal with onesey-twosey orders from us individually, but I can see why few want to undertake all the work involved in getting one off the ground.
I'll look around to see if I can find a plugin or separate SW package that would work with Zenforo and can pass it along to the site admin.
Just found this:
https://xenforo.com/community/resources/ozzmodz-advanced-forms.5632/
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- Mar 15, 2022
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- 111
I'm also down to help try and streamline this process if one isn't already setup beyond the "I'll take one" forum posts of the past.
I've had my eyes on doing something with Limited Run for a long time (not to be confused with Limited Run Games), but haven't had any product to sell. They work with a lot of small bands and festivals and have done an amazing job from my experience and in general seem to fit the same DIY ethos we're into.
Their pricing is transparent, only charging 5% of anything sold and look like they can handle pre-orders as well. I just created a site there for fun and if this seems useful to folks will continue investigating it. Not sure how that collides with the more granular details of folks on the forum getting orders together and getting product from some other source into that system and delivering on it, but it all feels exciting and I would love to help!
I've had my eyes on doing something with Limited Run for a long time (not to be confused with Limited Run Games), but haven't had any product to sell. They work with a lot of small bands and festivals and have done an amazing job from my experience and in general seem to fit the same DIY ethos we're into.
Their pricing is transparent, only charging 5% of anything sold and look like they can handle pre-orders as well. I just created a site there for fun and if this seems useful to folks will continue investigating it. Not sure how that collides with the more granular details of folks on the forum getting orders together and getting product from some other source into that system and delivering on it, but it all feels exciting and I would love to help!
- Joined
- Mar 15, 2022
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Here's a test example I threw together (NOTE: I claim own no rights to images or product, just took what's on this thread and played around with the idea and website, I will take down immediately if angering anyone).
I upped the price to $200 flat as hopefully a worst case example. Breakdown of pricing rationale:
now to get back to my day job...
I upped the price to $200 flat as hopefully a worst case example. Breakdown of pricing rationale:
- $170 for each mic body
- $8.50 baked in for Limited Run's 5% = $178.50
- (remove if not necessary) $8.50 baked in as another 5% if I need to help with any physical shipping / storing / handling or upfront order buy-in costs - can be split with anyone else doing legwork to make it happen - not sure how y'all want that to work = $187.00
- (remove if not necessary) $13.00 baked in for flat-rate shipping to U.S. per mic?
- Limited Run has a shipping calculator built-in that I haven't used yet, might be helpful to remove this all-in pricing and use their shipping calculator since a lot of folks on here aren't in the U.S. and I'm assuming this would be an international group buy.
now to get back to my day job...
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- Joined
- Mar 15, 2022
- Messages
- 111
Thanks for the heads up @neowalla ! My bad. To open the store up requires connecting a PayPal account which I can do but for now for sake of example screenshots attached below of the idea from my "owners" view.
Also my apologies @BrickByBrick once my manic idea phase ended I realized you can do all this yourself - you don't need me for it at all. I just want to help make this happen, including if you don't want to go it alone on fulfillment, but no pressure!
You can get this started in 30 minutes easy:
1. Create site at Limited Run (free to create, they only get that 5% cut of what sells)
2. Create product page, set your prices and pre-order item quantity details for your...Limited Run and figure how to handle shipping costs (LR helps with labels too)
3. Post your page here when it's ready, we go and pay you thru LR+Paypal (whatever other payment options they offer)
4. You complete the mic order from Jenny, receive shipment, and then fulfill the orders
5. Everyone gets to build and make some tunes
Screenshot examples:
Also my apologies @BrickByBrick once my manic idea phase ended I realized you can do all this yourself - you don't need me for it at all. I just want to help make this happen, including if you don't want to go it alone on fulfillment, but no pressure!
You can get this started in 30 minutes easy:
1. Create site at Limited Run (free to create, they only get that 5% cut of what sells)
2. Create product page, set your prices and pre-order item quantity details for your...Limited Run and figure how to handle shipping costs (LR helps with labels too)
3. Post your page here when it's ready, we go and pay you thru LR+Paypal (whatever other payment options they offer)
4. You complete the mic order from Jenny, receive shipment, and then fulfill the orders
5. Everyone gets to build and make some tunes
Screenshot examples:
Attachments
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I’d be in for 4 as well. I’d probably be up to put the order in if @BrickByBrick is not available to do it.
klem
Well-known member
I'd buy 4.
And I’m still In for one, she hasn’t gotten back to me individually since the holiday.
BrickByBrick
Member
Hey all, sorry to being MIA last couple weeks, busy busy in the studio!
Finally heard back from Jenny at the factory. Looks like bodies would ship out before March 10th. Thanks for all the ideas on how to get this moving.
Finally heard back from Jenny at the factory. Looks like bodies would ship out before March 10th. Thanks for all the ideas on how to get this moving.
egroys
Well-known member
If it’s not too late, I’d love to snag one please!
EarthTone
Well-known member
Hey @poctop and/or anyone else who's built this: Could we (please) have some pictures of the round version build from this thread? Especially the hi-z deck. It would be helpful for all of us who are now building this version to have pics to reference a properly built unit since there is some complex connections with the capacitors and stuff on the top PCB. I would realllly appreciate it! I think it's fairly clear but so far all I could find was this and it's hard to see exactly what is connected and where.
I'm also a little confused about the switch PCB for the body we're buying and where to connect it to the main PCB. It seems that there are 3 sets of JP1 and JP2. Should they all be connected to each other?
I am studying the schem and reading the original thread and looking forward to this build.
Thanks!
I think it's fairly clear but so far all I could find was this and it's hard to see exactly what is connected and where.I'm also a little confused about the switch PCB for the body we're buying and where to connect it to the main PCB. It seems that there are 3 sets of JP1 and JP2. Should they all be connected to each other?
I am studying the schem and reading the original thread and looking forward to this build.
Thanks!
Yes next week I upload the picsHey @poctop and/or anyone else who's built this: Could we (please) have some pictures of the round version build from this thread? Especially the hi-z deck. It would be helpful for all of us who are now building this version to have pics to reference a properly built unit since there is some complex connections with the capacitors and stuff on the top PCB. I would realllly appreciate it!
I'm also a little confused about the switch PCB for the body we're buying and where to connect it to the main PCB. It seems that there are 3 sets of JP1 and JP2. Should they all be connected to each other?
I am studying the schem and reading the original thread and looking forward to this build.
Thanks!
View attachment 104957
vinylwall
Well-known member
EarthTone
Well-known member
That would be great! I’m going to start building mine this weekend so that will be perfect. Thanks.
EarthTone
Well-known member
Wow thank you! Very helpful. This clears up some questions I had already, The more the better! For all interested parties, ample photo documentation will be super helpful.
Check the post above yours
vinylwall
Well-known member
A few notes for this build...
Make sure your Transistors are properly oriented.
R18 & R19 6.8k resistors need to be MATCHED.
R20 & R21 680k resistors need to be MATCHED.
R5 & R5+ = if you have R5 at 30M (to 33M) use only R5. If you have 2*68M then use R5 and R5+ as they are in parallel.
Float the connections between C1, C3, R3, R5 & T1
Float the connections between R1 & C1
CONNECTING THE TWO CIRCUIT BOARDS TOGETHER:
(use Qty 1 mouser 6-pin header: 474-PRT-11894)
The Hi-Z and amp PCBs connect together through the 6 pins marked JP1 & JP2 - Pin 1 to Pin 1, Pin 2 to Pin 2, etc.
To be able to separate the Hi-Z and Amp PCB's at a later time, solder a 6-pin header to the amp PCB. Insert wires through the Hi-Z board and into the header (I used resistor wires I previously trimmed off while stuffing PCBs). Solder on the Hi-Z PCB and cut off excess.
SWITCH PCB:
The switches themselves should be provided with the mic body.
(use Qty 4 mouser pins: 855-M20-9750342)
The switch PCB does NOT make any connections between the Hi-Z and amplifier PCBs. Electrical connections are only made on the Hi-Z PCB at JP3/JP7 & JP2/JP8 (so only solder the pins to the Hi-Z board). DO NOT SOLDER JP3 & JP4 ON THE AMP PCB or you will not be able to separate the PCBs if needed later.
CAPSULE CONNECTION:
front diaphragm connect = floating to the 1G resistor
backpate = a jumper-pad labeled BCK, only one of the pad goes to gnd
(the back diaphragm in this build is not connected just isolate the wire)
CM-13101 TRANSFORMER CONNECTION:
P+ - pad 1 - brown
P- + pad 2 - red
S- - pad 3 - yellow
S+ - pad 4 - orange
Ground - to XLR screw ground - black
XLR OUT connections:
(JUMPER GROUND SCREW TO PIN 1 - NOT PIN 3 OR PHANTOM POWER WILL NOT REACH THE PCB)
GND - Pin 1 to pin 1 - black (transformer black also connects on XLR here)
POS - pin 2 to Pin 2 - red
NEG - Pin 3 to pin 3 - yellow
"ENDOSKELETON" STANDOFF INFORMATION (NEED 3 EACH):
These should be provided with the mic bodies so this is just FYI.
(watch that those brass pieces, particularly the top one which is thicker, does not 'step over' any traces on the board. That will cause a short)
Capsule Plate to Hi-Z PCB:
Brass Female-Female
Thread: M2.5-0.45
Side Thread: M2.5-0.45 drill/tap through middle of hex
Hex: 8mm (5/16")
Length: 10mm (3/8")
Hi-Z PCB to Amp PCB:
Brass Male-Female
Thread: M2.5-0.45
Hex: 4mm (5/32")
Length: 16mm (5/8")
Amp PCB to Transformer PCB:
Brass Male-Female
Thread: M2.5-0.45
Hex: 4mm (5/32")
Length: 25mm (1")
Make sure your Transistors are properly oriented.
R18 & R19 6.8k resistors need to be MATCHED.
R20 & R21 680k resistors need to be MATCHED.
R5 & R5+ = if you have R5 at 30M (to 33M) use only R5. If you have 2*68M then use R5 and R5+ as they are in parallel.
Float the connections between C1, C3, R3, R5 & T1
Float the connections between R1 & C1
CONNECTING THE TWO CIRCUIT BOARDS TOGETHER:
(use Qty 1 mouser 6-pin header: 474-PRT-11894)
The Hi-Z and amp PCBs connect together through the 6 pins marked JP1 & JP2 - Pin 1 to Pin 1, Pin 2 to Pin 2, etc.
To be able to separate the Hi-Z and Amp PCB's at a later time, solder a 6-pin header to the amp PCB. Insert wires through the Hi-Z board and into the header (I used resistor wires I previously trimmed off while stuffing PCBs). Solder on the Hi-Z PCB and cut off excess.
SWITCH PCB:
The switches themselves should be provided with the mic body.
(use Qty 4 mouser pins: 855-M20-9750342)
The switch PCB does NOT make any connections between the Hi-Z and amplifier PCBs. Electrical connections are only made on the Hi-Z PCB at JP3/JP7 & JP2/JP8 (so only solder the pins to the Hi-Z board). DO NOT SOLDER JP3 & JP4 ON THE AMP PCB or you will not be able to separate the PCBs if needed later.
CAPSULE CONNECTION:
front diaphragm connect = floating to the 1G resistor
backpate = a jumper-pad labeled BCK, only one of the pad goes to gnd
(the back diaphragm in this build is not connected just isolate the wire)
CM-13101 TRANSFORMER CONNECTION:
P+ - pad 1 - brown
P- + pad 2 - red
S- - pad 3 - yellow
S+ - pad 4 - orange
Ground - to XLR screw ground - black
XLR OUT connections:
(JUMPER GROUND SCREW TO PIN 1 - NOT PIN 3 OR PHANTOM POWER WILL NOT REACH THE PCB)
GND - Pin 1 to pin 1 - black (transformer black also connects on XLR here)
POS - pin 2 to Pin 2 - red
NEG - Pin 3 to pin 3 - yellow
"ENDOSKELETON" STANDOFF INFORMATION (NEED 3 EACH):
These should be provided with the mic bodies so this is just FYI.
(watch that those brass pieces, particularly the top one which is thicker, does not 'step over' any traces on the board. That will cause a short)
Capsule Plate to Hi-Z PCB:
Brass Female-Female
Thread: M2.5-0.45
Side Thread: M2.5-0.45 drill/tap through middle of hex
Hex: 8mm (5/16")
Length: 10mm (3/8")
Hi-Z PCB to Amp PCB:
Brass Male-Female
Thread: M2.5-0.45
Hex: 4mm (5/32")
Length: 16mm (5/8")
Amp PCB to Transformer PCB:
Brass Male-Female
Thread: M2.5-0.45
Hex: 4mm (5/32")
Length: 25mm (1")
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Even if you don't solder the 4x3 switch board pins it will work well,as the body spacers hold them tight.
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