D47 Fet New Body Style PCB now available

[vinylwall]

The upper pins on the switch PCB are what make the connection to the circuit on the Hi-Z PCB. You have to solder them.

 

[materials to outlet]

Hey all, sorry to being MIA last couple weeks, busy busy in the studio!

Finally heard back from Jenny at the factory. Looks like bodies would ship out before March 10th. Thanks for all the ideas on how to get this moving.

If it's not too late, I would be interested in one as well!

 

[soapfoot]

@BrickByBrick If it’s not too late I’d also like one

 

[EarthTone]

A few notes for this build...

Make sure your Transistors are properly oriented.

R18 & R19 6.8k resistors need to be MATCHED.
R20 & R21 680k resistors need to be MATCHED.

R5 & R5+ = if you have R5 at 30M (to 33M) use only R5. If you have 2*68M then use R5 and R5+ as they are in parallel.

Float the connections between C1, C3, R3, R5 & T1
Float the connections between R1 & C1

CONNECTING THE TWO CIRCUIT BOARDS TOGETHER:
(use Qty 1 mouser 6-pin header: 474-PRT-11894)
The Hi-Z and amp PCBs connect together through the 6 pins marked JP1 & JP2 - Pin 1 to Pin 1, Pin 2 to Pin 2, etc.
To be able to separate the Hi-Z and Amp PCB's at a later time, solder a 6-pin header to the amp PCB. Insert wires through the Hi-Z board and into the header (I used resistor wires I previously trimmed off while stuffing PCBs). Solder on the Hi-Z PCB and cut off excess.

SWITCH PCB:
The switches themselves should be provided with the mic body.
(use Qty 4 mouser pins: 855-M20-9750342)
The switch PCB does NOT make any connections between the Hi-Z and amplifier PCBs. Electrical connections are only made on the Hi-Z PCB at JP3/JP7 & JP2/JP8 (so only solder the pins to the Hi-Z board). DO NOT SOLDER JP3 & JP4 ON THE AMP PCB or you will not be able to separate the PCBs if needed later.

CAPSULE CONNECTION:
front diaphragm connect = floating to the 1G resistor
backpate = a jumper-pad labeled BCK, only one of the pad goes to gnd
(the back diaphragm in this build is not connected just isolate the wire)

CM-13101 TRANSFORMER CONNECTION:
P+ - pad 1 - brown
P- + pad 2 - red
S- - pad 3 - yellow
S+ - pad 4 - orange
Ground - to XLR screw ground - black

XLR OUT connections:
(JUMPER GROUND SCREW TO PIN 1 - NOT PIN 3 OR PHANTOM POWER WILL NOT REACH THE PCB)
GND - Pin 1 to pin 1 - black (transformer black also connects on XLR here)
POS - pin 2 to Pin 2 - red
NEG - Pin 3 to pin 3 - yellow


"ENDOSKELETON" STANDOFF INFORMATION (NEED 3 EACH):
These should be provided with the mic bodies so this is just FYI.
(watch that those brass pieces, particularly the top one which is thicker, does not 'step over' any traces on the board. That will cause a short)

Capsule Plate to Hi-Z PCB:
Brass Female-Female
Thread: M2.5-0.45
Side Thread: M2.5-0.45 drill/tap through middle of hex
Hex: 8mm (5/16")
Length: 10mm (3/8")

Hi-Z PCB to Amp PCB:
Brass Male-Female
Thread: M2.5-0.45
Hex: 4mm (5/32")
Length: 16mm (5/8")

Amp PCB to Transformer PCB:
Brass Male-Female
Thread: M2.5-0.45
Hex: 4mm (5/32")
Length: 25mm (1")

This is incredibly helpful! Thank you so much for taking the time to do this. I really appreciate it! Literally andwered all of my questions preparing to do this build and also some I didn’t know I had. Thanks again!

 

[doqmemory]

@BrickByBrick If it’s not too late I’d also like one

I'm still in for 1, too.

 

[egroys]

I just got quoted $158/each with a minimum order of 10 pieces. The order would be ready in March.

Is anyone here moving forward with organizing the group buy? If so, is there a form/list or something like that?

Edit: I was able to get 2x pieces directly from Shuaiyin so I am all set

 

[BrickByBrick]

I just got quoted $158/each with a minimum order of 10 pieces. The order would be ready in March.

Is anyone here moving forward with organizing the group buy? If so, is there a form/list or something like that?

I have 10 pieces on order right now. I'll get an ETA and update yall. I'm going to go back in the thread and and reach out to everyone that asked for a unit in order they commented.

 

[soapfoot]

Ah, okay.

Looks like the rest of us would need to make another order then… seems like considerably more than ten pieces were spoken for

 

[Electrobumps]

I'm also interested in a couple of these.

 

[EarthTone]

I just finished 2 of these bad boys- U47FET with @poctop PCB's for the case we've been talking about in this thread. I am SO STOKED with the outcome, they really sound awesome. It was a really fun build. I used Dan's D7 capsule and a Cinemag CM-13101 transformer in both. The capsule is really nice, darker than the Heiserman K47 in my H47FET and full bodied. I like it more than that mic. The build was only easy-ish because of @vinylwall 's suuuuper helpful post. Thank you again Vinylwall, that was awesome of you! There were a few things I probably would've done wrong had it not been for that help. As it was, this build was a bit of a challenge, as although I've done a lot of outboard gear builds I have never completely scratch built a mic ordering the parts and sourcing the body all myself. Only done kits before. This was really fun. I feel like I have vintage quality mics now, they really sound awesome. I have attached photos in opposite order, from finished to all the parts laid out on my desk unbuilt. I have also attached a music file here so you can hear how it sounds on my sax. I only play sax so I have to test with that but I plan to use these mics on kick drums, center kit drums, amps, bass, and anything else that needs to sound good. Thanks for the PCB's and capsule Dan!

Some things people might find helpful: It's pretty much impossible to find 220Mohm resistors these days. I just used a 200Mohm and 20Mohm in series for the spot where you need one on the hi-z deck. Put the mounting arm on BEFORE you put the built exoskeleton into the mic case and install the capsule. You can't install the mounting arm once the PCB's are installed. You will need to remove the hex nut at the front of the mic when you install the PCB's. The switches get in the way and it's the only way. Then screw it back in after the switches are past the holes where they live. You'll have to bend that tantalum cap on the top hi-z deck lower than a regular upright installation so it doesn't conflict with the capsule mount plate- It's too tall so just bend it towards the Wima cap near it to clear the capsule mounting plate. Clean the PCB's before you install the styro caps so you don't melt them. I didn't do that on this build, but learned that a long time ago. Otherwise pretty much everything else was covered in Vinylwall's long how-to post on page-3.

Cheers,
Matt

demo file:

 

[soapfoot]

Excellent.

As soon as I can figure out how to get one of these bodies, I’ll build one

 

[EarthTone]

PM me!

 

[mesajoe]

I still want to buy 2 bodies, I tried emailing ShuaiYin Electronics Co., Ltd. but never got a reply..

 

[BraFra]

As I said, I'm in for 2, if possible.

 

[soapfoot]

I’m in for one

 

[EarthTone]

Ok cool!

 

[AndTripp]

I’m in for one

 

[neowalla]

I'm in for one.

 

[poctop]

I just finished 2 of these bad boys- U47FET with @poctop PCB's for the case we've been talking about in this thread. I am SO STOKED with the outcome, they really sound awesome. It was a really fun build. I used Dan's D7 capsule and a Cinemag CM-13101 transformer in both. The capsule is really nice, darker than the Heiserman K47 in my H47FET and full bodied. I like it more than that mic. The build was only easy-ish because of @vinylwall 's suuuuper helpful post. Thank you again Vinylwall, that was awesome of you! There were a few things I probably would've done wrong had it not been for that help. As it was, this build was a bit of a challenge, as although I've done a lot of outboard gear builds I have never completely scratch built a mic ordering the parts and sourcing the body all myself. Only done kits before. This was really fun. I feel like I have vintage quality mics now, they really sound awesome. I have attached photos in opposite order, from finished to all the parts laid out on my desk unbuilt. I have also attached a music file here so you can hear how it sounds on my sax. I only play sax so I have to test with that but I plan to use these mics on kick drums, center kit drums, amps, bass, and anything else that needs to sound good. Thanks for the PCB's and capsule Dan!

Some things people might find helpful: It's pretty much impossible to find 220Mohm resistors these days. I just used a 200Mohm and 20Mohm in series for the spot where you need one on the hi-z deck. Put the mounting arm on BEFORE you put the built exoskeleton into the mic case and install the capsule. You can't install the mounting arm once the PCB's are installed. You will need to remove the hex nut at the front of the mic when you install the PCB's. The switches get in the way and it's the only way. Then screw it back in after the switches are past the holes where they live. You'll have to bend that tantalum cap on the top hi-z deck lower than a regular upright installation so it doesn't conflict with the capsule mount plate- It's too tall so just bend it towards the Wima cap near it to clear the capsule mounting plate. Clean the PCB's before you install the styro caps so you don't melt them. I didn't do that on this build, but learned that a long time ago. Otherwise pretty much everything else was covered in Vinylwall's long how-to post on page-3.

Cheers,
Matt

demo file:

Glad you Enjoy the New ToyZs,
Best,
Dan,

 

[klem]

Today I received a package from @BrickByBrick and it's exactly as promised. He was quick with all communication and a pleasure to interact with. Completely transparent and trustworthy. Thanks again for organizing this J!