Hairball Audio, LLC - DIY Kits and Components. HairballAudio.com

[sodderboy]

I really dig the 1176 switches!  Especially the power grade switch in the meter assembly.  They resurrected an original blue stripe- re-capped, re-switched, and rockin' again.
thanks!
Mike

 

[Ptownkid]

Huh, never noticed that power switch change...when was that done, should those of us without that be worried?

 

[Echo North]

Huh, never noticed that power switch change...when was that done, should those of us without that be worried?

The original was rated for 120VAC @ 1A.  Fine for US/Canada.  It was noted in the documentation that is was not recommend for EU systems but I wouldn't be worried with the current draw of the 1176.

Purple Audio uses the 120V/1A for their power switch.

 

[edanderson]

yeah, this is more of a "why not make it better" type thing.  purple and jbl/urei used the 120V/1A switches for thousands of units and i've never seen one one be a problem, other than the eventual mechanical failure after 20-30 years of use on vintage units.  a while back UA and purple both went over to the new style switch, IIRC -- it only costs a few cents extra, so why not.

ed

 

[Philo]

Hi Guys,

I'll have more technical docs posted in the coming month.

Busy at Hairball!

Mike

Mike--

What would be really useful would be a complete wiring guide for the MNATS D Rev 2 board with the Hairball enclosure and switches.
In other words, for the standard stuff you are selling now.

The attached version is ALMOST complete, except that:

1) the OT wiring has the pinout order for the MNATS Rev 1 circuit board (instead of Rev 2, which uses a different order);

2) the OT wiring shows a RED wire connected to pin 2 of the output jack and a BLUE wire to pin 3 (when it actually needs to be reversed to work); and

3) it would be helpful to clarify that you can/should use a shielded cable for the connection from the DPST switch to the ratio board, with the shield carrying the BLACK signal and the interior wire carrying the GREEN signal.  Maybe you could also clarify that the 22 wire to the DPST is the signal BEING switched by the DPST, and that when it is connected to BLACK the 22 signal is grounded and the compression is turned OFF.

The listed OT pinout in the attached diagram will fry R32, and the reversed wiring to the output XLR means you will get low or no output.

Ask me how I know these things....

The reversed wiring from the OT to the output XLR is particularly subtle, because it is the opposite of every wiring guide I've seen (though clearly evident if one looks at the wiring diagram for the EA5002 posted on the Hairball site a few months ago).

This isn't THAT hard a project, but a complete/correct wiring guide for your parts would have saved me a significant amount of time/trouble.

I think I've finally got it working now, though. 

Philo

 

[tmuikku]

... If you are going to update documents, you could add info how to connect stereo link pcb with rotary version 1176. Stereo link wiring got me scratching my head for few evenings, Ricothetroll has it nailed on the help thread:
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=35656.msg493882#msg493882

 

[Echo North]

Awesome suggestions, thanks guys!

Yes, I'm still working on new "support" section.  You guys will like it and all of your concerns are addressed.  However, it's a lot of work and takes a bit of time.  I hope to have the first docs up before I head to AES in a few weeks.

Mike

 

[narapo]

Mike, what is the current draw for the 5V LEDs supplied with your VU ?

You've given the current draw for the 12V bulbs but not for the LEDs. I must make some calculations for the resistor for some voltage drop from the main PCB.

On the Mnats Rev D board (V2.2), what is the best place to get the DC from for the LEDs ?

 

[Echo North]

Mike, what is the current draw for the 5V LEDs supplied with your VU ?

You've given the current draw for the 12V bulbs but not for the LEDs. I must make some calculations for the resistor for some voltage drop from the main PCB.

On the Mnats Rev D board (V2.2), what is the best place to get the DC from for the LEDs ?

Hi,

It's 20mA.

There's not enough current on the -10V rail.  I've never used the LED in a build, but I would say use the +30V (+30 test point)rail and use ohms law to get the drop you need.

I'll have a little rectifier board for the LED VU's available in a few weeks.  It'll allow easy tapping of the PT.  You could use the PT secondary without a rectifier if you don't mind your LED's flashing on and off 60X a second.

Mike

 

[electron monkey]

Hello everyone, new here, been lurking on and off for a while.

I'm looking at one of these for the new year as a project, doing guitar pedals and easy stuff in comparison right now but I have a few queries.

What else is needed on top of

1). Hairball Kit (and your revision personally I'm going D) + Pot for Attack
2). Bill of Materials from Mouser
3). Choice of in/out trannies

Also on https://nl.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=cedcf00cfd

Mouser No: 512-2N3391A
Mfr. #: 2N3391A
Manufacturer: Fairchild Semiconductor

Is not available and there is one suggested alternative that can be bought in lower quantities, is it suitable?

I'm also wondering, with no instructions manual and it is quite a big project for a first timer, would it be wise to jump in? 

 

[Echo North]

Hello everyone, new here, been lurking on and off for a while.

I'm looking at one of these for the new year as a project, doing guitar pedals and easy stuff in comparison right now but I have a few queries.

What else is needed on top of

1). Hairball Kit (and your revision personally I'm going D) + Pot for Attack
2). Bill of Materials from Mouser
3). Choice of in/out trannies

The D kit comes with the required UTC O12  and 5002 type transformers required for the build.  You'd just need wire (hookup and 2 conductor w/ shield), solder, iron and basic tools.

Also on https://nl.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=cedcf00cfd

Mouser No: 512-2N3391A
Mfr. #: 2N3391A
Manufacturer: Fairchild Semiconductor

Is not available and there is one suggested alternative that can be bought in lower quantities, is it suitable?

Looks like the expect the Central part to be in stock in the next week:
Mouser Part No:   610-2N3391A

I'm also wondering, with no instructions manual and it is quite a big project for a first timer, would it be wise to jump in?  

The 1176 was my first serious build (other than 2 guitar pedals).  I did fine.  You have to move very slow and take your time.  If you are patient and don't freak out you'll be fine.

I mentioned earlier I am working on an assembly guide that will make the build much more accessible.  It's probably still 1-2 months away though, it's a lot of work.

Thanks,

Mike

 

[electron monkey]

Seems like it will be ready in time if I choose to go for it.

But yea, when thing go wrong THEN read the instructions  ;D

 

[Echo North]

Mouser No: 512-2N3391A
Mfr. #: 2N3391A
Manufacturer: Fairchild Semiconductor

Hi All,

This part has been discontinued by Fairchild.  I've replaced it in the mouser cart with the Central 2N3391A.  They are on order and mouser expects to have them in a week or so.

The *N* style mic inputs are coming (EA-10468)!  They'll be up on the site after I return from AES (Nov 8th).  I'll have a price very shortly.

Thanks go to Ed for working his butt off to get these made!

Mike

 

[zayance]

The *N* style mic inputs are coming (EA-10468)!  They'll be up on the site after I return from AES (Nov 8th).  I'll have a price very shortly.

Thanks go to Ed for working his butt off to get these made!

Mike

Good news, Thanks to you and Ed.

 

[dmp]

Awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[oceres]

The *N* style mic inputs are coming (EA-10468)!  They'll be up on the site after I return from AES (Nov 8th).  I'll have a price very shortly.

Thanks go to Ed for working his butt off to get these made!

Mike

Sweet! Curious.. Marinair design?

 

[Echo North]

Sweet! Curious.. Marinair design?

Yes sir. 

The Marinair 10468.

Mike

 

[phatmateo]

great news Mike and Ed!  I can finally finish my EZ1290's

 

[Echo North]

great news Mike and Ed!  I can finally finish my EZ1290's

It's all Ed's work.

My job is to stay out of the way and not touch anything.  I do it well.

Mike

 

[Echo North]

Hi All,

The EA-10468's are safely in hand.

They'll be up next week assuming they test fine.  I'll have a price and pictures for you Monday.  This week has been too AES crazy.

If you're at AES and see a Hairball logo on someone, it's probably me.  Please say say "Hi".

Mike