SSL 9K & 4K (E Series) 500 / 51X NEW BOARDS Mic Pre Thread 2011

[bruno2000]

2 different preamps.
4K series is different preamp style than the 9K..

haha yeah, that I'm aware of, rather talking about height, length etc?

Cutting the steel right now,  though have the wrong pcbs with me (4k) and await the delivery of the 9k boards.

Thought that the 4ks might have the same length etc (boards).

The 9K ad 4K boards are the same physical size, both the main board, and the meter board. 

You can use any of a number of input transformers, although the Haufe pads are upside down.  They can still be used, however by drilling a small hole in the board, and using a jumper.
Best,
Bruno2000

 

[atticmike]

2 different preamps.
4K series is different preamp style than the 9K..

haha yeah, that I'm aware of, rather talking about height, length etc?

Cutting the steel right now,  though have the wrong pcbs with me (4k) and await the delivery of the 9k boards.

Thought that the 4ks might have the same length etc (boards).

The 9K ad 4K boards are the same physical size, both the main board, and the meter board. 

You can use any of a number of input transformers, although the Haufe pads are upside down.  They can still be used, however by drilling a small hole in the board, and using a jumper.
Best,
Bruno2000

thanks bruno.

Could you also tell me what to do in order to leave out both the LED meter and HPF ?

 

[bruno2000]

Here's the scoop on construction without the HPF

Is there a way to get rid of the variable filter bruno?
I want to be sure before commiting.

Sure!  I will get together a list of parts to leave out, and you'll need to put in a jumper instead of the HPF in/out relay.  You'll probably have to use some kind of tray to insure mechanical stability since without the HPF pot, the board will then be attached to the front panel by only the gain pot.
Best,
Bruno2000

OK, if you don't want the HPF, leave out:  C10, C203, C204, C205, C206, R3, R9, R13, R215, R220, R221, R223, R225, R226.  Also leave out IC3, IC205, IC208, and their associated bypass caps, and jumper together the normally closed contact pads of RL2 (left out as well), and leave out the HPF switch
Best,
Bruno2000

To build without the meter, obviously the meter board does not get populated, also leave out:  C7, IC4, and all 300 series resistors, caps, and diodes.
Best,
Bruno2000

 

[atticmike]

since the 9k has the 51x Alliance slot, I suppose if I do the racking myself, it'll run at +/-24vdc ?

 

[culteousness1]

since the 9k has the 51x Alliance slot, I suppose if I do the racking myself, it'll run at +/-24vdc ?

I don't think so. Bruno already answered your question in Reply #210:

Hey,

Great looking project that I've come across

I have a few things on my mind that I'd like to ask on this thread:

1. Assuming that this is a lunchbox format, it runs at 24v since I'll be hooking this up with a whistlerock psu, 19" design?

2. Is it necessary to have the leds connected or can they just be left out, as well as the hpf filter? Rarely prefilter recordings at sessions.

3. Has anybody around here put an order purely from mouser together and would like to share it with me?

Thanks in advance, looking forward to start this build

Greetings,
1.  This build will do fine in an original lunchbox or equal, as it runs on +/- 16VDC.  All you need to do is cut off the 2 extra fingers on the dotted line.  The only reason for the extra fingers was to fit better in a 51X rack.
2.  You can leave out any/all of the LEDs and the HPF and even the meter if you'd like.  To leave out the HPF, you'll need to jumper the HPF relay in the NC position.  If you jumper out the relay, you might as well leave out that relay's diode, cap, and switch as well.
3.  I have not, but maybe someone else has.
Hope this helps!
Best,
Bruno2000

Best,
Carsten

 

[atticmike]

since the 9k has the 51x Alliance slot, I suppose if I do the racking myself, it'll run at +/-24vdc ?

I don't think so. Bruno already answered your question in Reply #210:

Hey,

Great looking project that I've come across

I have a few things on my mind that I'd like to ask on this thread:

1. Assuming that this is a lunchbox format, it runs at 24v since I'll be hooking this up with a whistlerock psu, 19" design?

2. Is it necessary to have the leds connected or can they just be left out, as well as the hpf filter? Rarely prefilter recordings at sessions.

3. Has anybody around here put an order purely from mouser together and would like to share it with me?

Thanks in advance, looking forward to start this build

Greetings,
1.  This build will do fine in an original lunchbox or equal, as it runs on +/- 16VDC.  All you need to do is cut off the 2 extra fingers on the dotted line.  The only reason for the extra fingers was to fit better in a 51X rack.
2.  You can leave out any/all of the LEDs and the HPF and even the meter if you'd like.  To leave out the HPF, you'll need to jumper the HPF relay in the NC position.  If you jumper out the relay, you might as well leave out that relay's diode, cap, and switch as well.
3.  I have not, but maybe someone else has.
Hope this helps!
Best,
Bruno2000

Best,
Carsten

Yup, got that, was rather confused by the X51 rack since I thought it purely ran at +/- 24V.

And I suppose the 130mA for each channel remain?

Mike

 

[atticmike]

do you think it'd be possible to use either of those annotated holes for stabilising the boards in my rack? By what I see on the board, there no leads connecting those.

 

[culteousness1]

do you think it'd be possible to use either of those annotated holes for stabilising the boards in my rack? By what I see on the board, there no leads connecting those.

Assuming you are going to do a 1RU unit,  I think this won't be necessary.
The pots will give you enough stability on the front. YMMV

Best,
Carsten

 

[atticmike]

do you think it'd be possible to use either of those annotated holes for stabilising the boards in my rack? By what I see on the board, there no leads connecting those.

Assuming you are going to do a 1RU unit,  I think this won't be necessary.
The pots will give you enough stability on the front. YMMV

Best,
Carsten

I'm just having a hard time getting the pot placed right at the front plate (already messed the position a bit up that's why I'd appreciate this method of mounting). So I won't create any lead by using either of the holes, given also that I will wire the gain pot to the board which will give me at least one free hole for mounting at the far left / right?

 

[bruno2000]

do you think it'd be possible to use either of those annotated holes for stabilising the boards in my rack? By what I see on the board, there no leads connecting those.

Assuming you are going to do a 1RU unit,  I think this won't be necessary.
The pots will give you enough stability on the front. YMMV

Best,
Carsten

I'm just having a hard time getting the pot placed right at the front plate (already messed the position a bit up that's why I'd appreciate this method of mounting). So I won't create any lead by using either of the holes, given also that I will wire the gain pot to the board which will give me at least one free hole for mounting at the far left / right?

I would drill small holes in the corners of the board, outside of the pot mounting holes.
Best,
Bruno2000

 

[atticmike]

do you think it'd be possible to use either of those annotated holes for stabilising the boards in my rack? By what I see on the board, there no leads connecting those.

Assuming you are going to do a 1RU unit,  I think this won't be necessary.
The pots will give you enough stability on the front. YMMV

Best,
Carsten

I'm just having a hard time getting the pot placed right at the front plate (already messed the position a bit up that's why I'd appreciate this method of mounting). So I won't create any lead by using either of the holes, given also that I will wire the gain pot to the board which will give me at least one free hole for mounting at the far left / right?

I would drill small holes in the corners of the board, outside of the pot mounting holes.
Best,
Bruno2000

Alright, I'll take heed of your advice though what is so wrong about using the unjoined pot mounting holes I've marked at the far right corners?

this would be prolly your option right?

 

[atticmike]

Could some one post a diagram of which two traces to cut and jump? I know its the RL3 relay but not sure were to go from there.

Thanks
Kim

Here ya go!

Why don't you just flip the relay and solder it under the board? oO

 

[bruno2000]

Could some one post a diagram of which two traces to cut and jump? I know its the RL3 relay but not sure were to go from there.

Thanks
Kim

Here ya go!

Why don't you just flip the relay and solder it under the board? oO

Reasons why not to:
It wouldn't fix the issue.  Just cut the traces.
Best,
Bruno2000

 

[atticmike]

Could some one post a diagram of which two traces to cut and jump? I know its the RL3 relay but not sure were to go from there.

Thanks
Kim

Here ya go!

Why don't you just flip the relay and solder it under the board? oO

Reasons why not to:
It wouldn't fix the issue.  Just cut the traces.
Best,
Bruno2000

alright, will do bruno.

also, what will I have to do in case I stuffed the HPF section but yet want it to disable for now?

 

[bruno2000]

Could some one post a diagram of which two traces to cut and jump? I know its the RL3 relay but not sure were to go from there.

Thanks
Kim

Short out the HPF relay in the NC position.
Best,
Bruno2000

Here ya go!

Why don't you just flip the relay and solder it under the board? oO

Reasons why not to:
It wouldn't fix the issue.  Just cut the traces.
Best,
Bruno2000

alright, will do bruno.

also, what will I have to do in case I stuffed the HPF section but yet want it to disable for now?

 

[atticmike]

Could some one post a diagram of which two traces to cut and jump? I know its the RL3 relay but not sure were to go from there.

Thanks
Kim

Short out the HPF relay in the NC position.
Best,
Bruno2000

Here ya go!

Why don't you just flip the relay and solder it under the board? oO

Reasons why not to:
It wouldn't fix the issue.  Just cut the traces.
Best,
Bruno2000

alright, will do bruno.

also, what will I have to do in case I stuffed the HPF section but yet want it to disable for now?

Would someone mind prepping a quick drawing for that?

 

[helterbelter]

ahum....
http://cgi.ebay.nl/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320980322847&ssPageName=ADME:B:WNA:NL:1123

 

[atticmike]

bruno, could you tell me which RL it is (I suppose RL2?) and roughly trace the shorted-out section on a picture to deactivate the HPF. 

---

Also another thing. I've really tried to get my head around the polarity issue of RL3 and your reference that simply swapping the two sides of the relay (under the board positioning) and yet not yielding a flip leads me to think that the issue has nothing to do with swapping both sides but rather with the misallocation of those two pins on the board and redirecting them ?

Could I also just place it the way it was (falsely), and simply swap hot and cold?

That's the way I mounted it of course without the red and black cables:

Mike

 

[atticmike]

Also which op-amp is responsible for the HPF section since I believe that without having the pot connected, it'll cause interference?

 

[culteousness1]

Also which op-amp is responsible for the HPF section since I believe that without having the pot connected, it'll cause interference?

One quick glance at the schematic would solve all of your questions.

Would be quicker than posting and waiting for response too.

To put my 2 cents...