U67 headbasket foam & dome

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OneRoomStudio

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How much difference do you all think this foam makes? Is it worthwhile to add? If so, what kind of foam would be best to use? How about the dome? Most modern interpretations don't have the dome, and instead have a flat deck, which seems like it could contribute some comb filtering. How much does this matter? Maybe someone more talented than me could 3D-print the dome part?

neumann-u67-vintage-tube-microphone-13.jpeg

7.-Neumann-U67-Capsule-Front-6192_1024x1024.jpeg
 
How much difference do you all think this foam makes? Is it worthwhile to add? If so, what kind of foam would be best to use? How about the dome? Most modern interpretations don't have the dome, and instead have a flat deck, which seems like it could contribute some comb filtering. How much does this matter? Maybe someone more talented than me could 3D-print the dome part?

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Most bodies used for replicas might have flat deck, but they also have grille ring above it that creates a notch in high end response. This is not the case with original bodies where the ring is below the deck.

In this case the dome and foam help. It is possible to avoid this issue by careful adjusting of the capsule height, but you would have to take measurements so you can "tune" the height.

If you are not able to do that i'd say either place the capsule as high as possible, or use the dome + some foam.

I believe @soliloqueen wrote somewhere Neumann fixed the issue by getting rid of the dome and foam by rising the capsule to compensate for this. But again, original Neumanns don't have that 90° ring sticking out.

In my measurements that notch is substantial, often 3-5db, and can ruin otherwise decent capsule response. It is also masked by smoothing the measurement responses, so not visible in most published graphs.
 
Member MSVienna modified some of his mics with domes.
Here are the two threads:

Thanks for the info on the transistor, always wondered what that thing does in there.

So for for the Plexiglas capsule base: That is quite easy to do really if you can use a drill press, basic lathe and preferably a band saw.
First I drilled the holes into the Plexi block.
IMG_2655_zpsdimlvczl.jpg


Then cut it out and sanded it roughly round
IMG_2656_zps92r6gmnw.jpg


Then went to the lathe. Now very few lucky ones may have a stepped ring collet to hold the piece. A simple but convenient solution here is to apply douple stick tape to the chuck jaws and then use the tailstock to center the work and press it against the chuck. Works great.
IMG_2657_zpsqo58doda.jpg


With the domed profile cut
IMG_2659_zpswpmo9do4.jpg


After fine sanding it can easily polished a high gloss, glass like surface. Just take care not to overheat the material during sanding/polishing. To remove remaining polishing compound it´s best to use an ultrasonic cleaner filled with warm water and some mild dishwashing detergent (alcohol would immediately crack the piece).
I also made a new capsule holder from some PVC scrap and bought a threaded rubber element with elasticity suiting the capsule´s weight.
Components of new capsule base assembly:
DSCN3005_zpsxs39eein.jpg


So after all the effort I didn´t wan´t to go with the stock capsule anymore and put in something decent
DSCN3012_zps1or6ypwm.jpg


It´s a K49 and the two sides are matched remarkably well.
Eventually the shape of the Plexiglas base is nothing new at all. It turned out to be pretty similar to a U67/M269-base and of course the dome now starts just at the lower grille entry ( failed to re-invent the wheel in this regard though as someone already was that clever half a century ago).
DSCN3011_zpst7fyx0sa.jpg


The very thin braids that connect the capsule are not my own idea as well. I´ve got that from a meanwhile retired guy of AKG´s manufacturing department who contributed that to the X-series C414´s (which have a fantastic shock isolation of the capsule thanks to it).

I compared the mic to an all original M49(with K49). Overall sound balance is very similar. However the M49 has a juicy sweetness to it and a charme that all AC701 mics I heard so far share. The (Ex-)Brauner is extremely clean and clear throughout it´s dynamic range and stays true even at quite massive SPL´s without any signs of saturation. But if you look for Mojo look somewhere else.
That might not be the end of the story but the "wrongness" that originally bothered me has gone. Quite a step up.
This one has comparison files in post number 7:


https://groupdiy.com/threads/neumann-tlm103-modification-new-plexiglas-capsule-base.63363/
 
How much difference do you all think this foam makes? Is it worthwhile to add? If so, what kind of foam would be best to use? How about the dome? Most modern interpretations don't have the dome, and instead have a flat deck, which seems like it could contribute some comb filtering. How much does this matter? Maybe someone more talented than me could 3D-print the dome part?

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View attachment 140934
Mine completely disintegrated and left foam dust all over the capsule. No ideas what effect the life of the foam.
 

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