All things G1176 - the new "repost" thread.

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gyraf said:
There is VERY small difference to the new version:

- extra R/C filter in psu
- extra +12V point for light and relays
- option for a simple sidechain filter insert (by a single switchable capacitor)

..all other is kept as always.

Jakob E.

I think Jakob got the threads mixed up - Those are the changes for the GssL.

I believe the G1176 changes are

pnp/npn transistors changed to commonly available types
On the old board, we used to cut a trace to avoid hum - trace removed.
Trafo has been rotated.

Not sure theres anything else, but Jakob can correct me.

Gustav
 
Hi

I've a 1176 to fix in my bench... It's a long story, somebody built it, my customer bought it, some years later he brings to a "technician" to fix something (I don't know what, the customer says he doesn't remember), and then the "tech" brings it back to customer with much less gain and some kind of hiss (white noise?) going up with the output pot.

The board looks like home etched, not so bad, it has varnish or something (Flux? there are some yellow drops near the solder points...) that makes it so sticky in the solder side, it says Rev G near the holes for the input transformer, and it was using 5532 for the input. Looking further in the mnats site, it looks like a Rev H board, I'm not sure because the holes for Q8 & Q9, but the rest of the board looks like the same.

About the working state, It passes audio, it compress, but the customer says he used to work with the input and output pots pointing to 10 O`clock or so, and after the "tech" he has to raise them all the way up. I didn't make so serious measurements, but with both pots up and feeding it about 0dbus it gives me something like +24dbus or so (read in my mackie 24/8 meter) So I'm not really worried about that, I think there's level enough to work.

The hiss is what really cares me, tracing the signal I found it starts somewhere between Q2 & Q3, both of them BC107B, I replaced them and Q4, but the noise is still there. Voltage looks fine according to gyraf site's schematic, resistor values looks fine too, grounding looks ok, the only point from the board going to ground is through the input xlr (Actually I ran a wire from GND point to the mains earth and it made some kind of ground loop or something that made the unit Hum). I tried an OEP for the input  and it's the same...

Any ideas? Maybe replace all the transistors? Thanks in advance
 
dirtyhanfri said:
Hi

I've a 1176 to fix in my bench... It's a long story, somebody built it, my customer bought it, some years later he brings to a "technician" to fix something (I don't know what, the customer says he doesn't remember), and then the "tech" brings it back to customer with much less gain and some kind of hiss (white noise?) going up with the output pot.

The board looks like home etched, not so bad, it has varnish or something (Flux? there are some yellow drops near the solder points...) that makes it so sticky in the solder side, it says Rev G near the holes for the input transformer, and it was using 5532 for the input. Looking further in the mnats site, it looks like a Rev H board, I'm not sure because the holes for Q8 & Q9, but the rest of the board looks like the same.

About the working state, It passes audio, it compress, but the customer says he used to work with the input and output pots pointing to 10 O`clock or so, and after the "tech" he has to raise them all the way up. I didn't make so serious measurements, but with both pots up and feeding it about 0dbus it gives me something like +24dbus or so (read in my mackie 24/8 meter) So I'm not really worried about that, I think there's level enough to work.

The hiss is what really cares me, tracing the signal I found it starts somewhere between Q2 & Q3, both of them BC107B, I replaced them and Q4, but the noise is still there. Voltage looks fine according to gyraf site's schematic, resistor values looks fine too, grounding looks ok, the only point from the board going to ground is through the input xlr (Actually I ran a wire from GND point to the mains earth and it made some kind of ground loop or something that made the unit Hum). I tried an OEP for the input  and it's the same...

Any ideas? Maybe replace all the transistors? Thanks in advance

Have you check that the qbias is still set correctly? Might be dumping a ton of signal to ground which could create noise floor issues if the gain has to be cranked.
 
Thanks! i was trying to avoid touching the calibration, but it looks necessary, I also installed an input transformer and the noise is better.

Great compressor BTW
 
I just put together my 1176 rev J and I am scoping right after the Lundahl input trafo and it is decidedly not a 1 to 1 ratio. do the 12k resistors in parallel purposely drop this down?

I tested the trafo out of circuit by building the suggested block on the Lundahl datasheet and it is definetly working correctly.

I have a feeling this might be the source of my problems
 
jwrightzz1234 said:
I just put together my 1176 rev J and I am scoping right after the Lundahl input trafo and it is decidedly not a 1 to 1 ratio. do the 12k resistors in parallel purposely drop this down?

I tested the trafo out of circuit by building the suggested block on the Lundahl datasheet and it is definetly working correctly.

I have a feeling this might be the source of my problems

Is ut supposed to be 1:1?  The original was a step-up transformer wired in reverse.  It has a 500:200 ratio.

Mike
 
I bought the Lundahl LL1540 and wired it in what i would assume to be the expected manner, with the earth pin going in the hole towards the center of the board in the only hole large enough for it to go in.

When i run my function generator into the leg of the input pot, the circuit seems to function as normal, with good output and enough signal to get over the comression threshold, but when i put the function generator in before the input trafo the signal virtually dissapears.

-----EDIT------

I figured out that it was not in fact the transformer stage, but when i attach the signal to the input pot it dissapears. If i just short the input pin 1 to input pin 2 the signal is passed through the 1176. Ive used 2 different pots and both seem to have the same problem

EDIT EDIT------

I built the simulated input inductor and it works perfectly.... i think im just going to take the lundahl out for now.
 
One last final question!

Using the 4 pole 3 pos rotary switch, I get Gain Reduction and output on my meter but no input.

It looks like point 4 on the ratio pot is the bypass channel on the ratio pcb correct?  It does not seem that pin 4 is making it to the metering node on the 4 pole 3 pos switch.

I have been scouring the meta and i see some different wirings for the metering pcb but they all seem to pretain to the pushbutton metering or nuke mode. 

If there are any posts that someone could point me to or if there is something im not understanding please let me know! thanks a bunch
 
Hi,
I just finished stuffing my G1776 board, was going to start wiring, but I was unable to find any wiring diagram and there are lot of things that are not marked on silkscreen at all (for example the two tripple headers next to the output transformer). I got the boards from Gustav long time ago. Can't find the version/revision number on them, only 06/22 in the lower left corner.
But generally, there seems to be a lot of wiring and seems like a lot of opportunities to make it wrong, some wiring diagram would be very helpful. Does such thing exist?

also, the BOM says:
2M SHIELDED MOUNTING CABLE
4M STANDARD MOUNTING WIRE

can anybody tell me where do I use which? also how thick wire is recommended? is AWG26 ok, or should I get something thicker?
 
Hi. I'm pretty new to this forum and to the DIY World. So sorry if I'm posting in the wrong part of the forum.

My question would be; Is the G1176 (specifically referring to this kit - http://goo.gl/pzFW7L) a suitable beginner Project for a novice.
My soldering skills are Ok. But I have never tackled a project such as creating a Preamp,EQ,Compressor etc. Just the odd broken wire repair.

Any suggestions or advice appreciated.

Thanks.

[Update]

After some reading I've decided to look at the GSSL as my first build instead.
 
Ok so I know this is a stupid question, and will be completely obvious to anyone who knows anything about electronics but seeing as I haven't a clue I'm going to ask you all anyway. 1176 seems to be ok, everything's in and all the voltages I've checked look good, but I've been trying to get my meter light working and I'm a little stuck. I've managed to get the lamp running nicely directly from one of the secondaries of the transformer with a 240ohm 5w resistor on it.  My question is how do I hook this up and the PCB at the same time?? I assume I have to make some sort of parallel circuit but I'm not sure where to start. As I say I'm sure this is really obvious, I'm a total beginner at this sort of thing (I've done lots of DIY projects recently with a good success rate but I'm not going to pretend I have a clue about the electrics!). I'll be very grateful if anyone could point me in the right direction, or at least tell me what it is I need to learn!! Thanks
Jamie
 
You're just tapping off the PCB.  So if you have a 3 pos header at your PCB AC-0V-AC pads, you hook your secondary up as described in the wiring guide (Center tap with two 25V secondaries) then you power your meter lamp from one of the 25V (resistor in series) pads and the 0V pad.  So your 0V pad and one of the 25V pads/headers have two wires coming.
 
Hey guys,

I'm calibrating my 1176 (mnats rev J) and there is one thing that bugs me when reaching step 6 "Remove pad 22 to ground and observe the drop in meter reading". It sure does drop, but after adjusting to -10 the needle does not move at all when grounding pad 22 and it doesn't help to adjust output level so that the meter reach 0vu again. The needle won't move unless I re-adjust the input level to 12o'clock and output to zero (starting values).

I'm applying the -10dB signal from my daw's signalgen.

Any ideas?
 
Looking for some pointers. My 1176 was working fine except one thing which i'll come to soon. But after a while the VU just gets pinned to the right in G.R mode and i get about +6vdc on it. It was working perfectly before so i dont think i have any values messed up. Could it be Q10 that broke? Or something else?
Also what havnt worked at all is the Q. Bias adjustment, nothing happens when i turn it. I've swapped the trimpot but nothing.

If anyone could point me in the right direction i would be happy. I'm sorry if it's been discussed before but i couldnt find anything when i searched.
 
HI All,

just putting together the final stages of this 1176 and hit a slight snag, wanted to use a balancing board instead of the output transformer but need to find +18 -18 0v to power it, does anyone know where or if there is points for this, i can see there is a point for +17.25v which is fine but no -17v.
Obviously if i cant i'll have to make up an adjustable psu pcb and do it that way but just wondered if there are points already there.

Also i have VU meter and im not entirely sure where to connect it? and do i need a resistor in series to it?

regards

Spence.
 
Nobody seemed to have same issue as my Gyraf 1176. It compresses like a charm and everything sounds nice (audio goes thru).

Symptoms:

- VU meter doesn't move at all at +4 setting. Except when turning input gain full clockwise it moves needle a little bit around -20dBvu, but it returns to -20 immediately. -> imbossible to make Q-Bias calibration.
- GR seems to do it's job (even it's not calibrated yet)

I've looked for bad soldering for a while, but everything looks fine.. All cabling is correct.. Maybe bad BF245A? How I can test it?

/Henrik
 
- VU meter doesn't move at all at +4 setting.

Your VU-meter is not really a VU-meter then.

A real VU-Meter will show 0VU when fed with +4dBm through a 3.9KOKm resistor. This is what is specified for the 1176.

Yours is probably a DC-reading meter, with no internal rectifier bridge. That is, if it shows GR correctly (and I guess it does, as you don't include this in symptoms list).

And yes - we've had this question several times before...

Jakob E.
 

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