CLX-VU Build Thread (DBX 160VU ) UPDATE: REV 3

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G-Sun said:
dandeurloo said:
No they are much to big to fit into a 500 series thing.
PCB with the easy parts smd prefabricated?
http://www.7pcbassembly.com/PCB-assembly-price.php?d3=1&d5=0&c6=10&c8=50&c11=0&c13=1&c18=100&c20=50&c23=10&c25=0&send=Calculate&x=62&y=16
? :)

"SMD, ruining sound since 2010 ;D "
I kidd.... kinda, i haven't found too many smd components that match TH from a sonic perspective, of course YMMV
 
dandeurloo said:
I am now stocking the rev 3 PCB's.

http://collectivecases.com/?product_cat=pcb

:eek: !!!! This is AWESOME NEWS! Dan at Collective Cases is a rock solid dude!
How many people didn't get their boards from Abe? is there a list or? As a community we should try to keep track of stuff like this, and try to help guys who got the short straw straightened out, we all go through heavy shit in our lives, it's just a bummer that decent, smart guys like abe and igor could turn like that ?? you'd have never believed it if you didn't watch it happen with your own eyes, i hold out hope that they will return someday and set things right by the good fella's here at GDIY
 
tonycamp said:
"SMD, ruining sound since 2010 ;D "
I kidd.... kinda, i haven't found too many smd components that match TH from a sonic perspective, of course YMMV
I'm just a newbie here, not knowing much :)
 
tonycamp said:
dandeurloo said:
I am now stocking the rev 3 PCB's.

http://collectivecases.com/?product_cat=pcb
bummer that decent, smart guys like abe and igor could turn like that ?? you'd have never believed it if you didn't watch it happen with your own eyes, i hold out hope that they will return someday and set things right by the good fella's here at GDIY
Which Igor?  The Igor I know on this forum (dirty1_1garry) seems to be a really great guy and is very active/communicative.
 
Bowie said:
tonycamp said:
dandeurloo said:
I am now stocking the rev 3 PCB's.

http://collectivecases.com/?product_cat=pcb
bummer that decent, smart guys like abe and igor could turn like that ?? you'd have never believed it if you didn't watch it happen with your own eyes, i hold out hope that they will return someday and set things right by the good fella's here at GDIY
Which Igor?  The Igor I know on this forum (dirty1_1garry) seems to be a really great guy and is very active/communicative.

Hey Christian, its this Igor as far as i know... http://groupdiy.com/index.php?action=profile;u=3241
 
tonycamp said:
Bowie said:
tonycamp said:
dandeurloo said:
I am now stocking the rev 3 PCB's.

http://collectivecases.com/?product_cat=pcb
bummer that decent, smart guys like abe and igor could turn like that ?? you'd have never believed it if you didn't watch it happen with your own eyes, i hold out hope that they will return someday and set things right by the good fella's here at GDIY
Which Igor?  The Igor I know on this forum (dirty1_1garry) seems to be a really great guy and is very active/communicative.

Hey Christian, its this Igor as far as i know... http://groupdiy.com/index.php?action=profile;u=3241
OK, different guy.  Thanks for clarifying, Tony.  :)
 
Hi guys,

Is there a way to switch  the metering with dpdt switches or using something else other than the 4 push button switches? Or even a lorlin? I also have some 3 gang 11 position switches us it possible with them?
Have I done this right?

Regards

Spence.
 

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Interested in this build.
A few questions:

Meter: Any alternative to Hairball? They charge $50 for shipping 2pcs, and with VAT it just gets ridicules costly.
Cost/parts: I need to check sourcing/prices. Much difficult and costly parts?
Sidechain HPF: Anybody done this? Easy? Would like 1-3 setting.
 
You could have hairball ship the meters to me and I can ship the PCB's and cases and meters all at once.  I have done that a number of times for guys.
 
dandeurloo said:
You could have hairball ship the meters to me and I can ship the PCB's and cases and meters all at once.  I have done that a number of times for guys.
That could be very handy :)
Do you sell just the frontpanel, or do you only sell full cases?
 
To you who has finished a unit:

Can you describe the sound and usability?
Would you say it fits some music-genres better than other?
Some instruments better than others?
 
G-Sun said:
To you who has finished a unit:

Can you describe the sound and usability?
Would you say it fits some music-genres better than other?
Some instruments better than others?
Dan has the full cases.  I have one, they're awesome and look similar to the originals, but nicer, IMO.

  The sound is not a certain instrument/certain genre thing (then again, that's how I feel about any gear).  The sound is pretty much the classic DBX/VCA sound and even though the VU has fewer controls, it has the most musical vibe.  The vibe isn't so much a tonal coloration as it is the compression characteristic.  The auto attack/release has a groove to it that some call "knock".  It's been loved for decades on kick and snare.  I've heard several say that when they have a vocal that doesn't sound good on any  other comp, the 160 usually works.  I've found that they can be great on some types of acoustic guitars.  It's got a lot of uses. 
Tone is pretty transparent, relatively speaking, and the compression character is probably best described "lively".  Not invisible, but it starts with that 'groove' I referred to and can get intense.  You will hear it pump and breathe if you slam it, but the VU has a way of making that sound usable, rather than just cheap.

  I used the vintage DBX black cans in mine, which are a little more "loose" and vibey.  Finding a properly matched pair may be hard (I got lucky).  I've heard the CLX w/ THAT vca compared to an original and the CLX w/ THAT chip is tighter.

It's a fairly inexpensive and easy build and highly recommended.  There is plenty of documentation and the build butler is super-handy.  Calibration is complex but I got mine workable before even calibrating.  Fun vca comp that works on a lot of things.
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Bowie said:
...Tone is pretty transparent...

Of all the compressors I have, this is the last one I would say it's transparent! This is the rock'n'roll beast!
As soon as you dive into the signal with enough treshold it starts to knock signal. Loads of character!
This compressor is instant rock kick and snare! Incredible punch!
 
shot said:
Bowie said:
...Tone is pretty transparent...

Of all the compressors I have, this is the last one I would say it's transparent! This is the rock'n'roll beast!
As soon as you dive into the signal with enough treshold it starts to knock signal. Loads of character!
This compressor is instant rock kick and snare! Incredible punch!
Please don't take offense at this but you missed what I said.  I stated that the compression character has vibe but the tone of the unit (the coloration that happens when passing a dry signal through it) is relatively clean.  "Relatively" being in relation to vintage compressor circuits.  The coloration you get from passing through the circuit and what results from the actual compression action are often two separate things.
 
Have put together a couple more of these units, have made external Psu which outputs 2 X 18v, 0v and Gnd. I tweaked the +\- 15v and 24v rails sit at 25v, then I have put in IC's.
I have adjusted R36 and looked at offset with scope and looks good waveform.
The RMS symmetry is a different story, I haven't done this yet or the level calibration.
Does this all need to be done with R109  disconnected? As this isn't clear at this stage.
The way I've read it, you disconnected R109 after you have done all this?

Regards

Spence,
 

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Thanks Bowie, shot and dandeurloo!

I'll pass this time,
saving up for a elysia xpressor.

If I was running a studio, building a CLX-VU would be a no-brainer,
but, I'm not, and I need to focus a little different.
 
i'm not getting any response from R36, wave form stays the same where ever i go with the pot?
also not getting out put, only getting sinewave up to 100k R26 but nothing it seems after?
i need to trace whats happening and i think my problem lies with the THAT2181 that im using?

Spence.
 
would probably help if i put the THAT2181 the correct way round!!!
getting oscillation on the output, at least something is appearing there now!!! lol.
i seem to remember changing some of the caps on the RMS unit and this got rid of the oscillation, will check.
 
Changing C80 from 5pf to 10pf stopped the oscillation before. I am using the CA3083 and the other changes I've done are the 2N4037 and 2N3053. So hopefully this will work again.
Also I need to make sure I have the 1000pf caps on the output and not make the same mistake of putting in 900R.
 
Had a quick look and have changed 5pf to 10pf and am getting output and compression, just meter and setup to do.
when doing setup i don't get any response from meter at all? hope my 3 gang switch pot wiring is ok? i always doubt what i do.
on the other unit ive done im pretty sure i blew all the LM301, so ive changed them and now get some sort of output, doesnt look good on either unit but signal is getting to the output.
The under LED seem to always be on? this is the case with my other working unit but is this correct? im questioning everything now!!!
when adjusting the threshold the over light does come on and on one unit i can clearly see on the scope that its compressing.
the other unit is a bit weirder and when i turn up the output the signal goes down? but it does compress as well.
ratio control seem to work as well.

Spence.
 
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