Entropy continued

[scott2000]

I posted on a truck forum and texted my neighbor but wanted to ask here too for my impatience and more opinions.
My truck's manual says to make sure the z height is correct before torquing any ball joints or control arms as it relates to replacing. My truck z height wasn't right to start with and the torsion keys were adjusted for leveling after a body lift by the guy I originally bought it from. Angles were always pretty bad and the sway bar links always looked tweaked. CV axles...etc

All my suspension parts are removed (lower control arms stayed but I loosened nuts) and I'm putting everything back but am confused (and a little nervous) on how to start torquing at the correct z height...

I ended up putting the torsion key where it is specified in manual (34mm from bottom of retaining plate to top of adjusting bolt head) because when I tried jacking up the lower ca to get the z correct with it where it was, it would start lifting the truck from the jack stands. Even with the torsion adjustment almost all the way out after setting it per the manual, it takes a lot of force to get the lower control arms up to get the correct z but it's there. Just seems like a lot of tension and makes me nervous torquing everything down while it's like this and I just want to make sure I'm thinking right. I know jacking up the lower control arm is supposed to simulate the truck's load but is it enough? Most videos and advice online don't mention this or have different methods and vehicles.

Doesn't seem right to put the wheels on and put the truck on the ground and trying to get to the ball joints to torque them because everything will be in the way more obviously . I guess the upper and lower arms would be easy enough.

Should I leave everything snug and put the truck on the ground, get the z correct, then torque ? If I put it on the ground with wheels attached, can I leave out the axles (and shocks,sway bar links) and get the z height where it needs to be and then torque. I think the axles would be the most in the way..

I do have a bit larger tires than factory but not much so maybe getting it set with them on might be the way to go?

 

[JohnRoberts]

sorry I don't even know what Z height is? If you are going to get the front end aligned after you finish, they will probably tell you if something is AFU.

JR

 

[scott2000]

what Z height is

It's something to do with the height angle and if it's not within specifications, it's supposed to be corrected before an alignment. But, I've had the truck aligned in the past with goofed up angles so, I guess they don't really care or it's not necessary.idk...
On my truck it's about 6" from lower control arm pivot to bottom of steering knuckle. The first picture.... I can get it there by jacking up the lower control arm but, I'm not sure if I should/or it's better to put the weight of the truck on the ground with it's tires installed and then make sure the z height is right that way before torquing everything.
Just seems like things can get tweaked if I set the truck down and everything isn't already torqued down.... At least the ball joints anyway...Seems the control arms should just move freely enough and not get tweaked...

 

[JohnRoberts]

Does the truck ride funny? Is front tire wear normal/even?

Maybe it isn't a huge problem.

JR

 

[scott2000]

Maybe it isn't a huge problem.

Pretty sure I'm overthinking things. Just figured since I had everything out I'd try to follow the manual for once when putting stuff back. But I don't see anything abnormal from it's life of just having things done however I or anyone else could manage at the time. Except maybe the fact that stuff wears out sooner. Usually I just write that off to "they just don't make things like they used to" or whatever....

 

[JohnRoberts]

Tire wear patterns are an indicator of different front suspension alignment issues, the alignment shop should be able to read your tires.

JR

 

[JohnRoberts]

another entropy failure... my outdoor temperature sensor has been misbehaving for a couple weeks. At first it lost sync, so I replaced the batteries. It lost sync another two times since then... today it is claiming that it is 91 degrees outside , it isn't more like mid 70s.

I ordered a new replacement remote temp sensor last week and it is due to arrive tomorrow. I am almost tempted to take the old one apart but probably won't.

[edit- another day in the 90s, maybe it is true temperature... damn that climate change. /edit]

JR

I received my replacement external temperature sensor and still see major discrepancies between the north and south sides of my house. I have seen as much as 9' differences between N and S, side. The South side that should be warmer isn't always... The S sensor is inside my sheltered car port so warmer when it's cold outside, and cooler when it's hot.

As the old joke goes, a man wearing two wristwatches never knows what exact time it is. Now I almost always get two different outdoor temperature readings.

I figured out what the lost sync issue was, rereading the instructions advised against using rechargeable batteries because their lower nominal voltage 1.2V could be marginal. I looked at rechargeable Lipo cells because they have a 1.5V nominal voltage but my brother, the family battery expert, says that they are fire starters and dangerous. It's not like this is a major expense to use real batteries and I still had almost a dozen left over from my drum tuner business that no longer needs them. So no problem.

JR

 

[JohnRoberts]

For today's entropy event, my kitchen sink side sprayer started dripping/leaking... These cheap POS fixtures only last for a couple years at a time. I already had a new replacement sitting in a kitchen drawer.

I just ordered another replacement to replace the spare.

JR

 

[MicMaven]

For today's entropy event, my kitchen sink side sprayer started dripping/leaking...JR

Well, it appears to be contagious. Immediately after reading the above post, I went upstairs for a glass of water, and BAM, our under-sink water filtration system suddenly seized up, bricking a new set of filters. Um ... darn it. So you are not alone, old man. James - K8JHR

 

[JohnRoberts]

Well, it appears to be contagious. Immediately after reading the above post, I went upstairs for a glass of water, and BAM, our under-sink water filtration system suddenly seized up, bricking a new set of filters. Um ... darn it. So you are not alone, old man. James - K8JHR

yup my RO unit is due for fresh filters too.

JR

 

[JohnRoberts]

more drama from my remote outdoor thermometer. I replaced all the rechargeable aa batteries with old new stock regular AA batteries left over from my drum tuner days. For a time I have two different outdoor remotes working, (right now my side yard is 10' hotter than my car port). Yesterday my new external temp remote sending unit lost sync.. I replaced the old new stock battery and swapped locations to see if that matters. I don't really need two outdoor temperature readings but for now the new sending unit is not more reliable than the old one.

JR

 

[JohnRoberts]

Not sure if this is entropy proper, but it required repair. My bathtub drain has been slow for years/decades but I have been able to keep it draining with help of a plunger (after blocking the vent). But last week it got irreparably clogged and the plunger just packed it tighter. I recall throwing away my tired old snake years ago, so I invested in a new one.

It was not easy but applying constant pressure while turning the crank did what it was designed to do. I pulled out some dark hair from the end of the snake, but my hair has been gray for over a decade.

JR

 

[MicMaven]

. I pulled out some dark hair from the end of the snake, but my hair has been gray for over a decade.

Um ... Err ... that is sorta creepy, JR. I guess it did not all go with the flow ... Anonymous.

 

[Tubetec]

Theres a good drain cleaning product I've used on ocassions , its a foamer , so first you pour a kettle of boiling hot water down the plug hole , then empty the powder down , its foams up ,then you put the plug in , leave it a while , then rinse through with extra boiling water , it contains caustic soda , it disolves hair gunk and soap scum very effectively , even if you've cleared the main blockage it might be worth doing the chemical cleaner to clear any nasty that still remains in the pipes .

 

[JohnRoberts]

Theres a good drain cleaning product I've used on ocassions , its a foamer , so first you pour a kettle of boiling hot water down the plug hole , then empty the powder down , its foams up ,then you put the plug in , leave it a while , then rinse through with extra boiling water , it contains caustic soda , it disolves hair gunk and soap scum very effectively , even if you've cleared the main blockage it might be worth doing the chemical cleaner to clear any nasty that still remains in the pipes .

Most plumbers discourage using caustic drain clog solvents.

I poured several kettles of boiling water down the tub drain to loosen things up but plunging just seemed to be packing the clog tighter. The drain started out slow, then after plunging for a couple days became fully clogged. By the time I attacked this with a proper snake (which only arrived yesterday afternoon $25) there was several inches of water standing in my tub.

This is a picture of the old P-trap from my bathroom sink that I replaced several years ago. I don't use commercial drain solvents myself but may have used a little clorox from time to time. I can't vouch for the previous home owner. This was probably original plumbing that back in the day used really thin wall brass(?). This was so corroded it would literally crumble when touched. Now it is replaced with modern PVC that should outlast me.

JR

 

[Tubetec]

I dont think I ever saw anything other than the usual white PVC trap used here ,
its often easier just to replace it rather than delve into Balina-sludgery-muck .

I did fix up the sink in a buddies bedsit recently ,
the metal plughole insert had rotted out , he seemed to have been using the sink as a convienient place to 'strain the spuds' , poor ould divil is worse the wear from years of hard drinking ,
Not a pleasent job , but you know sometimes we have to grit our teeth and just get the job done .

 

[JohnRoberts]

I ran into my plumber at the post office a couple days after my snake success and we shared about 20 minutes of plumbing war stories. His were better than mine...
===
Today I filled my gas tank for the first time since I fixed my odometer so I could compute my gas mileage... Just over 20 MPG which is pretty good for the speed I typically cruise at on the interstate, in a 25 YO car.

JR

 

[scott2000]

On an episode of Dirty Jobs, Mike asked the plumber for a big plumbing tip he could give the viewers.
He said don't chew your nails....
Lol...true

 

[JohnRoberts]

Back on topic wrt my franken-lights, the last few days have been cloudy and overcast. Instead of staying lit up all night, they have been winking out between 7-8PM. I may need to add a third solar panel in series with the two already there.... (kidding).

I expect them, and the sun light, to return to normal pretty soon...

[edit- yet another cloudy overcast day, so again low expectations for tonight's dark o'clock. /edit]

[edit2] Today the lamps both went dark before 8PM... this is emblematic of trying to use battery back up for continuous solar power... /edit2]

[edit3] after the first sunny day in about a week... my frankenlights made it all the way to the next morning... lights were still on past 3AM /edit]

JR

From inspection you can see how the extra solar cell is attached with hot melt. This has worked effectively for several years until this last week. I had several days with my outdoor remote thermometer logging 100-105'F

The black lamp sitting in direct sunlight probably gets hotter than that. I reattached it with some gorilla glue but when reinstalling it by my driveway I notices that the metal was bent and plastic cracked. Thinking back there was windstorm a couple weeks ago that blew over my garbage can that was sitting by the street for collection... so the hot melt is not the weak link. My second franken lamp is still OK.


JR

 

[JohnRoberts]

Entropy strikes again.... last night as I was retiring to my back bedroom to sleep like a baby , I turned on my main room dehumidifier. For years I run a dehumidifier overnight to keep humidity low to control black mold (it works). Last night the dehumidifier struggled to start and then nothing. I found a blown 20A fuse in my fuse box.

I replaced the blown fuse with my last spare 20A (I ordered some more this morning). After I replaced the fuse the dehumidifier started up. When I returned from replacing the fuse, the dehumidifier was running didn't sound right, speed was unsteady. I decided to turn it off.

This dehumidifier has many hours on it. I've run it every night for well over a decade. Coincidentally depending on what has failed, I have a back up spare parts dehumidifier I can borrow components from. When I first purchased this unit, I discovered that the control circuitry was not operating properly. I suspect the humidity sensor, but never found a replacement for sale. When I tried to return it for warranty the manufacturer told me to keep it, and sent me a new one. So now I have almost new spare parts.

The symptom of blowing a 20A fuse suggests something motor related, either the fan or compressor. Another rare possibility is that voltage sag from a bad service connection causes excessive current draw.

We'll see

JR

PS: I have several 30A fuses that the previous homeowner used. AFAFIK branch fuses should only be 15A or 20A. I replaced those old 30A house fire starters with safer sized fuses.