Entropy continued

[JohnRoberts]

Yeah ... maybe I need to move. Touche!

West Michigan also has a very low cost of living compared to the rest of the nation. We can buy a lot more house at any price point than nearly anywhere else across the nation. Of course I suppose it is possible that is because it is a depressed slagging market on the skids ... but I do not think so.

Gratuitous Sidebar - I am often amazed at the high cost of housing in other markets - especially what folks pay on those flip-this-house programs on TV to acquire a run down junk property - only to discover halfway through the program it needs an entirely new foundation and has mice and bats in the attic, which would have easily been revealed if only they had ordered a basic $300 home inspection before closing the deal. Those guys (and their stupid lenders) never hire lawyers or qualified inspectors to assess the situation beforehand, and they act so surprised when it proves a huge debacle. They borrow the full cost on 30 day demand notes ( which surely signals they have terrible credit scores) and they blithely plow ahead, always sweating a short deadline to fix and sell before the bank calls the note and take the property in lieu of foreclosure. This clearly indicates they have no money of their own and are merely gambling they can pull it off in time - not a sound business plan!!​

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But I digress ...​

​

FWIW my older and wealthier brother is finally escaping SOCAL and buying a house in NC, that he plans to tear down and build a new house in its place. The picture he shared of the house to be torn down looks pretty good to me. I suspect this is somewhat to keep the Mrs. happy, but he will probably enjoy supervising the general contractor now that he is retired.

One advantage over your bailiwick is our winters keep the bug and pest populations in check. We have fewer and smaller bugs, poisonous snakes and spiders, and other critters than most Southern states. And I doubt you guys enjoy downhill and cross country skiing and ice skating very often.

I was born and raised in the north east so I understand winter weather. Cold weather didn't really bother me until I had to pull guard duty at FT Riley KS. guarding empty buildings in the deep of winter. I definitely have a preference for warmer rather than colder weather now. MS winters are already cold enough for me.

But as an old ham radio operator I admire says, "It's all good."

73s

(Gee - I hope none of this comes off as sparring - just commenting back and forth as we go along.) _ James

PS - I would sign off as JR, but you already claimed that moniker! JHR

Careful, my middle name is Harry, so I am also a JHR. When I was playing pickup basketball I used to get confused with a guy called "junior" who also signed up for games using JR.

Speaking about coffee some more, I made my coffee using third wave coffee water additive for the first time in several weeks. I do taste a subtle improvement.

I hear tell dripping cold water on the top of a hot pot of cowboy coffee causes the grinds to sink to the bottom. Have you guys ever tried that? If it works, I might try it on Turkish coffee, which is really thick with finely grind coffee. I filter it, notwithstanding that is sacrilege to Turkish coffee aficionados.

I, too, would have to make it by the mug as my wife loves the fragrance of freshly ground and brewed coffee - but won't consume a single drop!

Any experience or traction on the cold water trick? James

As I already shared, when I was in the field on NATO maneuvers back in 1970, thats how the mess sergeant made coffee for the mess hall... Boiling water was pored over coffee grounds in the bottom a large metal tub, stirred, then cold water poured on top of any grounds still floating on top after several minutes the good coffee gets decanted out leaving the grounds behind. The coffee wasn't that bad considering, surely better than the C-rat instant coffee.

JR

 

[MicMaven]

Careful, my middle name is Harry, so I am also a JHR.

No kidding. Spooky coincidence.

cold water poured on top of any grounds still floating on top after several minutes the good coffee gets decanted

Thanks for the uptake. I will try it on French press and Turkish style when I can. James (thanks for the 73)

 

[MicMaven]

regarding Bialeti express moke pots ... JR said ... "I think those are what we call percolator coffee makers."

Um ... er ... perhaps not. A Bialeti express moka pot is sorta quick boil and infuse process. Boiling water in the lower chamber makes steam which, eventually, pressures it up and through the coffee in the middle, finishing in the upper chamber. It flows quickly once it has enough steam. In contrast, a percolator boils water in a single changer, which slowly bubbles up through a tube to drip on coffee grinds in a basket at the top of the chamber. A percolator cycles the water through the coffee for several minutes, which is why it is so dag blamed easy to over cook and scorch the finished beverage. I stopped using a percolator because, all too often, I would get distracted cooking the rest of my breakfast, while the percolator continued brewing and, eventually, scorching the coffee. I am reminded that a self-inflicted wound hurts the most!

As with so many things in life - timing is the essence of good comedy! James

PS - I like the Bialeti guy on the side of the pot.

 

[Tubetec]

A coffee percolator is similar in some ways to above , the hot water rises due to steam , and falls back down through the coffee grounds , over and over .

I used have one of the pots above , usually a lot of residual particals end up in the cup ,
I wouldnt go back to it , my Lidl espresso maker saved me thousands so far and its still going strong .

 

[Mr. Moscode]

For an update on my new improved side sprayer, unexpectedly I am learning to deal with much higher spray pressure/volume. Since the water source is coming from the same feed I can only ASSume that the cheap side sprayers restrict their water flow. This can be surprising if spraying into a dish with rounded bottom as the water flow shoots back up and out of the sink. I sprayed myself more than once.

The water flow can be modulated by how far you depress the lever, so it is possible to regulate how hard it sprays, but that takes retraining. I am thinking about maybe wrapping some foam around the body of the sprayer to limit the travel of the lever. Soft foam that could be squeezed to increase flow might work. Having excess water pressure is not exactly a bad problem for a side sprayer.

JR

I don't know if it would be convenient but you could install a valve in
series as a current limiter. You might still get hard burst of water for a moment if the hose can expand.
Nice looking gadget. Our faucet has all of that in it. Just pull the sprayer out.

 

[MicMaven]

Back on topic, Entropic Case No. 29833 -

Today, I dismantled and nursed an old strereo receiver back to health. And I designed and built a prototype portable field antenna for the Handiham program that assists disabled persons enjoy amateur radio.

Of course, this is no big deal for the rest of you, but I am feeling stud because this is a hobby for me, as my career was in a completely different field. So, imagine I am enjoying that heady sense of self satisfaction that comes from completing a successful home brew project. So, I should be able to take the rest of the month off and rest, eh? James

 

[MicMaven]

you could install a valve in series as a current limiter.

I agree. I would put the valve on or as close to the main line as possible, before the point where the spray hose attaches to the main water line.

Sidebar -- I have considered doing that, myself, in my kitchen. Maybe I can overcome the intertia which has heretofore prevented me from doing that. Um ... I will sleep on it, as I am no procrastinator! James

 

[JohnRoberts]

I have already had some success putting some soft foam under the trigger. If I actually want the high pressure spray I just squeeze the trigger harder, compressing the foam. The problem is from the high pressure spray when you don't expect it. The higher pressure/flow is nice when you want it.

[edit- I just completed my first experiment with some adhesive backed insulation foam . My judgement is that it is too soft to last. It is already deformed. I need a different durometer foam /edit]

I did a similar modification to my battery powered string trimmer trigger that extends fresh string when trigger is bottomed. Before the mod it consumed too much trimmer cord. Foam under the trigger makes it easier to modulate.

I just ordered some adhesive backed foam insulation. I can share a picture if it works out as expected.

JR

 

[Mr. Moscode]

Back on topic, Entropic Case No. 29833 -

Today, I dismantled and nursed an old strereo receiver back to health. And I designed and built a prototype portable field antenna for the Handiham program that assists disabled persons enjoy amateur radio.

Of course, this is no big deal for the rest of you, but I am feeling stud because this is a hobby for me, as my career was in a completely different field. So, imagine I am enjoying that heady sense of self satisfaction that comes from completing a successful home brew project. So, I should be able to take the rest of the month off and rest, eh? James

No. Take the year off and go to Cancoon.

 

[JohnRoberts]

congrats ....

the entropy hits keep coming. Today I ordered an 18' roll of 4mil vinyl sheeting to recover a few of my failing red neck (indoor) storm windows. While real glass storm windows are pretty common in colder climates, in the deep south, on a cheaply built house, they barely have screens let alone storm windows.

Well over a decade ago I rolled my own cheesy (red neck) storm windows to fit inside the standard windows. I noticed that the windows in bedroom used for my weight machine has torn and started falling apart. UV sunlight tends to degrade polyester a well known mechanism, so I need to recover these window. This bedroom is not heated/cooled so not a major efficiency issue, but it's time to reskin. Likewise another closed off back bedroom that is mainly used as a storeroom for old parts has some windows also in decline.

JR

PS; For TMI about coffee making the new batch of of 3rd wave coffee water additive was described as for "medium roast", my judgements after two pots is that it is buffering too much acid. A little acid gives the coffee some bite... I will try diluting it 50%

[edit- update diluting the water additive 50% added back in some bite. /edit]

 

[MicMaven]

[edit- update diluting the water additive 50% added back in some bite. /edit]

Two quick rejoinders:

1) My wife made indoor-mounted winter window insulators out of quilted poly-cotton fabric that hang between the window and the blinds/curtains. They are good insulation and look like shades behind the blinds or curtains and are quickly and easily removed in warmer weather. Low cost, yet effective, and easily changed out.

2) Perhaps you are obsessing over your water. I mix filtered tap water with distilled water, but only to minimize scale in the boiler. If your local water has a lousy pH value, you might try a gallon of drinking water from another source, and maybe mix that with local water to get the click. I just cannot bring myself to use distilled water (to eliminate minerals) only to add other minerals with an aftermarket product. I know we are supposed to end up with the "right" minerals in the end, but it seems too gimmicky to me ... but then, it's your call.

Good luck with your storm window project. James

 

[JohnRoberts]

Two quick rejoinders:

1) My wife made indoor-mounted winter window insulators out of quilted poly-cotton fabric that hang between the window and the blinds/curtains. They are good insulation and look like shades behind the blinds or curtains and are quickly and easily removed in warmer weather. Low cost, yet effective, and easily changed out.

in my bedroom windows besides the red neck storm windows (wooden frames wrapped in clear plastic trapping insulating air between the two film layers). I also hang some bubble wrap behind the cloth curtains for extra thermal insulation.

2) Perhaps you are obsessing over your water. I mix filtered tap water with distilled water, but only to minimize scale in the boiler. If your local water has a lousy pH value, you might try a gallon of drinking water from another source, and maybe mix that with local water to get the click. I just cannot bring myself to use distilled water (to eliminate minerals) only to add other minerals with an aftermarket product. I know we are supposed to end up with the "right" minerals in the end, but it seems too gimmicky to me ... but then, it's your call.

I start with RO water so some argue it is too clean. In my judgement the magic water additive buffers acid in the coffee to make it smoother... some would call that mild flavor bland.

Good luck with your storm window project. James

The red neck storm window project is pretty much an old success, but after all these years some of the plastic sheeting has deteriorated from UV sunlight. These are windows in rooms I do not heat/cool or actively use much. The window plastic needing a refresh is in the room with my weight machine, I need to use that room more.

JR

 

[MicMaven]

also hang some bubble wrap behind the cloth curtains for extra thermal insulation.

the magic water additive buffers acid in the coffee to make it smoother...

Ha! Good move using bubble wrap - cost effective and surely all that trapped air is a good insulator, which also lets some light into the room. A "renewable" resource.

I get your point about water conditioning. It is difficult, if not impossible, to generate any sort of rule on water because water varies so much from one place to another. I agree RO or distilled water can be too "clean" as you say. Espresso machine vendors often advise consumers to mix some tap water with distilled water for best results. Ultimately, it all "boils down" to what works best in your location.

Gee ... all this chatter about coffee moves me to roast beans today ! Imagine me roasting beans while sipping java and eating a huge sticky caramel cinnamon bun. James

 

[JohnRoberts]

Interesting example of reverse entropy.

Last summer during the 105'F for multiple days heat wave, my heat pump air conditioner was only marginally holding indoor temperature under control. During that period, while I tried adjusting settings to squeak out a little more cooling, the indoor unit's air steering vane stopped working. Since it was still blowing cool air and cooling the house, I let it go as yet another appliance/gadget that stopped working completely, and forgot about it.

This week when I switched my heat pump from cooling to warming, the air steering vane magically started steering again.

JR

PS: My intermittent LED light bulb in my bedroom still continues to randomly light or not with no discernible pattern. The old school incandescent bulbs stay burned out when they fail.

 

[JohnRoberts]

Today's entropy episode regards my old electronic thermometer(s). A few weeks ago I noticed a step change in the temperature reading. I measure my body temperature under arm. This reads about one degree lower than mouth measurements but is not affected by drinking hot coffee or cold beer. I noticed a series of consistently 2' low readings. I became suspicious of low battery but there was no definite low battery indication.

I ordered two new batteries, and a new thermometer, since it was unclear that low battery was the actual problem and these are cheaper than dirt. The two batteries cost $1.70 including tax and shipping, the new thermometer was $3 something. The new thermometer arrived first and it has a larger display that makes it easier to read.

Today I put the new batteries in two of my old electronic thermometers. Now I have 3 working thermometers. The two newer thermometers are reading the exact same temp. The 10+ year old thermometer reads only 0.2' different. Not significant IMO.

So in conclusion the state of the battery matters to these cheap electronic thermometers, and the current cheap thermometers are very consistent, probably accurate too.

[edit - I ran anther test of all three and again the two newer ones measured quite close within 0.2'F, the old one measured 2 degrees off, I repeated the test and old one was still not consistent maybe 1' off /edit].

JR

 

[JohnRoberts]

The squirrelly LED bulb in my bedroom ceiling fixture continued to randomly turn on and off.... I am pretty good at ignoring such things but this finally motivated me to take action.

The first problem I encountered is that I couldn't reach the light fixture from standing on the ground... WTF. My good bathroom scale has a height measuring feature and I appear to have lost 2" of height vs my younger numbers. Thats life and getting old sux, but its better than the alternative.

So I dragged in a ladder from outside and grabbed a random LED bulb from my used but still working bulb stash. The first LED bulb I swapped in was a different color... too much for even me to ignore. I swapped out both bulbs and got them the same color.

All good for now....

JR

 

[cyrano]

Ha! Good move using bubble wrap - cost effective and surely all that trapped air is a good insulator, which also lets some light into the room. A "renewable" resource.

I get your point about water conditioning. It is difficult, if not impossible, to generate any sort of rule on water because water varies so much from one place to another. I agree RO or distilled water can be too "clean" as you say. Espresso machine vendors often advise consumers to mix some tap water with distilled water for best results. Ultimately, it all "boils down" to what works best in your location.

Gee ... all this chatter about coffee moves me to roast beans today ! Imagine me roasting beans while sipping java and eating a huge sticky caramel cinnamon bun. James

When I was working in the water treatment business, we had polyester resin water treatment systems for coffee machines. They got less minerals out of the water, were smaller, cheaper, but needed new resin at least once a month, even when the coffee machine wasn't used much. I can't remember the type of resin, but it was different from the one used for laundromats.

The biggest risk with those is when the water contains organic particles, leading to rotting. It reeks (usually after holidays), is possibly dangerous. That case needed a complex pre-filter. But these cases were extremely rare over here.

 

[JohnRoberts]

That reminds me my RO sediment pre-filter is past due to be replaced.

I will do that while I replace the flow restrictor to correct my imaginary water leak.

JR

 

[JohnRoberts]

I replaced my toilet tank float valve this morning. That should nip that slow water leak.

One thing I like about free market capitalism is how competition drives development of better new products. My new float valve has two adjustments (the old one only had one). The new second adjustment controls the level of water in the bowl after a flush. I dialed both down to lower levels than before.

Doing my best to save the planet.

JR

 

[scott2000]

The new second adjustment controls the level of water in the bowl after a flush. I dialed both down to lower levels than before.

Dang...Sounds like you still had the floating ball on a stick for your old one......