EQU47 Mic Bodies | Orders open on January 19th 2013

[Soeren_DK]

Is it still possibly to order the capsule?
Will it work for the G7 project?

Cheers
Soren

 

[david-p]

Got mine.  Thanks!  A really nice job!

I have some (probably dumb) questions:

Body:

1. Although the struts are vertical, I am having difficulty lining up the two side screws that go into them to hold the head basket onto the body.  Any hints?

2. Am I right in thinking that the perspex spacer is not needed for the Equinox capsule?

3. I am wondering why the screws with the allen key are used to attach this spacer.  What would have been wrong with regular screws? This method, with a thread cut into both the plastic and the metal makes it difficult, if not impossible, to avoid a gap between the plastic and the metal.  I would be pleased to be corrected if I am doing this wrong.

Capsules: Mine came with two little screws and six washers.

1. How are the washers intended to be used?

2. What is the purpose of the third hole on the capsule?

3. If for for pressure equalization, why is it tapped?

Thanks, again!

David

 

[techix]

Got mine.  Thanks!  A really nice job!

I have some (probably dumb) questions:

Body:

1. Although the struts are vertical, I am having difficulty lining up the two side screws that go into them to hold the head basket onto the body.  Any hints?

2. Am I right in thinking that the perspex spacer is not needed for the Equinox capsule?

3. I am wondering why the screws with the allen key are used to attach this spacer.  What would have been wrong with regular screws? This method, with a thread cut into both the plastic and the metal makes it difficult, if not impossible, to avoid a gap between the plastic and the metal.  I would be pleased to be corrected if I am doing this wrong.

Capsules: Mine came with two little screws and six washers.

1. How are the washers intended to be used?

2. What is the purpose of the third hole on the capsule?

3. If for for pressure equalization, why is it tapped?

Thanks, again!

David

The majority of your assembly questions are answered in the two products manuals located here:

http://equinoxsystems.net/support/manuals/

2. Am I right in thinking that the perspex spacer is not needed for the Equinox capsule?

If you prefer the same capsule height as the original U47, it is necessary.  If you like a lower capsule placement, it is not.  You may want to experiment and see if there is any noticeable difference in sound and see what you would prefer.

3. I am wondering why the screws with the allen key are used to attach this spacer.  What would have been wrong with regular screws? This method, with a thread cut into both the plastic and the metal makes it difficult, if not impossible, to avoid a gap between the plastic and the metal.  I would be pleased to be corrected if I am doing this wrong.

The heads on regular screws would be in too close proximity to the screw that attaches the capsule to the capsule plate.  Set screws, even though they are quite a bit more expensive, were a requirement.  Try inserting and the set screw into the spacer first, and once the tip starts to emerge from the other side, screw into the capsule plate.

The 3rd hole on the capsule is for your ground wire; see the capsule manual.

The washers can be placed between the capsule mount and the mount screw as illustrated in the capsule manual.

Hope this helps,

Justin Jones
Equinox Systems

 

[soundcollage]

Referencing the manual, I believe David was wondering why 6 washers were given when only 4 are accounted for in the assembly photo. I also believe he was asking about the center tapped hole which according to the diagram's dotted line implies the screw holding the mount to the circular plate goes into it-though it is neither long enough or small enough. In the assembly photo the back plate wire is attached to one of the screws mounting the capsule. I was choosing to ignore the center tapped hole as a screw was not provided to mount the backplate wire there, but I can see why questions could arise about the assembly illustration.

 

[david-p]

Thanks for your helpful response, Justin.

I did read the manuals!

> Capsules: Mine came with two little screws and six washers.

>2. What is the purpose of the third hole on the capsule?

The 3rd hole on the capsule is for your ground wire; see the capsule manual.

Not in the manual I am looking at...

If all three holes are meant to be used (including the centre one for the solder lug -- which is actually shown in the manual as attached to an outer screw), I am puzzled why you did not provide three screws.  And yet, you provided six washers.

Try inserting and the set screw into the spacer first, and once the tip starts to emerge from the other side, screw into the capsule plate.

I will try this.  It is, however, confusing that the set-screws are shown in the manual as starting from underneath, rather than from above, as your advice would indicate.

Thanks, again!

David

 

[Skylar]

Is it still possibly to order the capsule?
Will it work for the G7 project?

Cheers
Soren

Yes, there are capsules available.
They will work with the G7, but I recommend changing the capsule polarization scheme IF you run into issues with back plate sticking.
The G7's stock polarization voltage (80V) is on the high side. I recommend 60V.

So if you run into problems with the default polarization voltages, you can take the back plate voltage down to 60V by adjusting the voltage divider circuit in the mic.
Change the lower 470K resistor to 282K or whatever standard value is close to that.


Then you'll have to alter the polarization switching circuit in the PSU. Here's a suggestion. I added a resistor and changed how the switch is wired.



I just now whipped this together, so somebody check my math and such...

 

[Le Roux]

[/quote]

Yes, there are capsules available.
They will work with the G7, but I recommend changing the capsule polarization scheme IF you run into issues with back plate sticking.
The G7's stock polarization voltage (80V) is on the high side. I recommend 60V.

So if you run into problems with the default polarization voltages, you can take the back plate voltage down to 60V by adjusting the voltage divider circuit in the mic.
Change the lower 470K resistor to 282K or whatever standard value is close to that.


Then you'll have to alter the polarization switching circuit in the PSU. Here's a suggestion. I added a resistor and changed how the switch is wired.



I just now whipped this together, so somebody check my math and such...
[/quote]

I plan on using a G7 with a Dale M7 capsule in the EQU47 mic body.  Would you recommend this mod for the Dale M7 capsule also?
And what exactly do you mean by back plate sticking?

Thanks
Neil

 

[Skylar]

I plan on using a G7 with a Dale M7 capsule in the EQU47 mic body.  Would you recommend this mod for the Dale M7 capsule also?
And what exactly do you mean by back plate sticking?

Thanks
Neil

Yes, I would recommend it for the Dale M7, but you really need to check with Chuck or Dale if they've tested with 80V polarization to be sure.

If you apply a high enough polarization voltage to a capsule, the diaphragm will be attracted to the backplate to the point that it actually sticks. At this point, your microphone will be not be usable.

We recommend 60V polarizing voltage for the Q47-D. You may be able to polarize it higher, but we cannot offer support in such an application.

Most importantly...the mod above is untested, so use at your own risk.

 

[Skylar]

Got mine.  Thanks!  A really nice job!

I have some (probably dumb) questions:

Body:

1. Although the struts are vertical, I am having difficulty lining up the two side screws that go into them to hold the head basket onto the body.  Any hints?

2. Am I right in thinking that the perspex spacer is not needed for the Equinox capsule?

3. I am wondering why the screws with the allen key are used to attach this spacer.  What would have been wrong with regular screws? This method, with a thread cut into both the plastic and the metal makes it difficult, if not impossible, to avoid a gap between the plastic and the metal.  I would be pleased to be corrected if I am doing this wrong.

Capsules: Mine came with two little screws and six washers.

1. How are the washers intended to be used?

2. What is the purpose of the third hole on the capsule?

3. If for for pressure equalization, why is it tapped?

Thanks, again!

David

I'm working on some videos I shot of how I build up these bodies and capsules. This will hopefully clear up a lot of questions.

 

[Skylar]

more coming soon

 

[david-p]

This first video is excellent -- indeed, beyond the call of duty!

Thanks!

David

 

[MagnetoSound]

I'm gonna do a group buy of latex gloves!

Who's in?

 

[Skylar]

 

[Skylar]

 

[0dbfs]

I'll be the first with this question..

What type of glue is best to re-fasten the nut that holds the capsule mount if it comes loose?

Careful!

Thx,
jb

 

[Skylar]

Loctite 410
Mcmaster 74765A72

 

[david-p]

I am trying to figure out what cable to buy.  There appear to be two excellent ones, designed specially for tube amplifiers:

1. Gotham 20101 GAC-7 has 7 conductors and good shielding, and an outer diameter of 6.2 mm

2. Mogami make W3172 Tube Mic Cable which has three pairs of different wire diameter, for heater, HT, and audio (twisted pair).  Outer diameter is 6.5 mm

Both of these cost around $2 per foot.

3. There is also Mogami W2642 which has 7 26AWG conductors and is 5.0 mm outer diameter.  Price is c. $1.05 per foot.

Does anybody have experience of any of these cables?

Would there be insoluble problems in trying to get 6.5 mm cable through the hole provided by the Binder connector?

David

 

[Skylar]

I am trying to figure out what cable to buy.  There appear to be two excellent ones, designed specially for tube amplifiers:

1. Gotham 20101 GAC-7 has 7 conductors and good shielding, and an outer diameter of 6.2 mm

2. Mogami make W3172 Tube Mic Cable which has three pairs of different wire diameter, for heater, HT, and audio (twisted pair).  Outer diameter is 6.5 mm

Both of these cost around $2 per foot.

3. There is also Mogami W2642 which has 7 26AWG conductors and is 5.0 mm outer diameter.  Price is c. $1.05 per foot.

Does anybody have experience of any of these cables?

Would there be insoluble problems in trying to get 6.5 mm cable through the hole provided by the Binder connector?

David

Have you read the earlier pages of this thread?
Start with this message and read the next page or two if you haven't already.

 

[david-p]

Yes, I did, but it was a long time ago!  Thanks for reminding me.

David

 

[Marc Duchesne]

The Wagner shockmount is very nice, it is AUD 225...