I have the same boards, bodies, and transformers built up, and I’m just waiting on Guosheng (or @Tim Campbell) to make CK12s for me to purchase!
C414 body + Moby TX Ü54 + Beesneez C12 Capsule + Vami's PCBs =
Better not possible in my Opinion....
https://vamisound.com/kits/v-414-pcb-set/Are those pcbs made specifically for this type of body?
Are they a 414 circuit?
Can’t seem to find those pcbs in Vamisound website
These C414 EB 48V PCBs are exactly made for these Micbody, only for these bodies and 100 Percent according to the original schematic. No difference. Also the Layout is better / less chaotic imo than compared to the original PCBs, it uses isolated Pins for Hi impedance parts.... Noisefloor is really excellent for this low output design of 6mV/Pa - if you use best parts like C0Gs, original Transistors ... It is an ultimative "wow" Mic, the desert Island Mic...... Ask Milan "VAC11" directly.Are those pcbs made specifically for this type of body?
Are they a 414 circuit?
Can’t seem to find those pcbs in Vamisound website
Hi,So, do you guys think a CK12 type capsule it’s the best match for this 414EB-P48 circuit?
Or other capsules are a good choice also?
Thanks
Well they are paying for a white market thread and they have been visiting the site even as late as yesterday.I hope they weren’t scared off by the response to their earlier thread.
Thank you for the kind words about our printed circuit boards.These C414 EB 48V PCBs are exactly made for these Micbody, only for these bodies and 100 Percent according to the original schematic. No difference. Also the Layout is better / less chaotic imo than compared to the original PCBs, it uses isolated Pins for Hi impedance parts.... Noisefloor is really excellent for this low output design of 6mV/Pa - if you use best parts like C0Gs, original Transistors ... It is an ultimative "wow" Mic, the desert Island Mic...... Ask Milan "VAC11" directly.
I wish you would include schematics in your manuals, I very much dislike building anything without one. Particularly regarding future repairs, having the actual schematic to the pcb is much better than having to reference the original one and wonder which part is which. But in general, just soldering parts without knowing for each what it is makes me feel a bit uneasy .There's also a nice manual on our website that I created while building it. You can check it out for inspiration.
“It is indeed an exact replica of the C414EB-P48 circuit. The one without the DC-DC converter to polarization voltage.”I wish you would include schematics in your manuals, I very much dislike building anything without one. Particularly regarding future repairs, having the actual schematic to the pcb is much better than having to reference the original one and wonder which part is which. But in general, just soldering parts without knowing for each what it is makes me feel a bit uneasy .
Ok, but the same goes for all the other pcbs you sell as well. You already drew the schematic in order to design the pcb, just makes no sense to me not to include it.To Volker and studiosleve: Yes, use the original schematic. The components on the boards are labeled the same.... No difference. I'm generally not opposed to sending a schematic from a pcb layout program if you insist on it.
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