Official 33609 builder's tread. See 1st page for updates.

[Rob Flinn]

[quote author="rob_gould"]The only thing I've discovered about these caps now they've actually been delivered is that they are too tall to go on the front of the switch boards. They will hit the switch mounting bracket if mounetd that way. Soldering to the back of the board works OK though.[/quote]

You could perhaps bend them so they lire sideways to the pcb ??

 

[rob_gould]

Hi Rob,

Yes I considered this but because I haven't received my case yet, I decided to go for the option that I knew would work.

When I laid the boards out 'by eye' to gauge the distance between them based on some of the photos Igor has taken for us, I thought that there was a possibility that one of the caps would clip the board above / below it.

 

[mtw]

Greetings,

I am slogging my way through an order with Mouser, working off of DJD's 33609 BoM. I'm looking up part numbers for capacitors and, having only one DIY project under my belt, am trying to navigate the byzantine maze of capacitors. :shock:

I'm looking for a suitable part for CJ2, a 33p silver mica cap. Is this "Mica Radial Lead Capacitors 33pF 300V +/-2%" suitable?

Also, how about this part for C19, C20, C21 - 100p silver mica caps.

Thanks in advance!

-mtw

 

[rob_gould]

[quote author="mtw"]Greetings,

I am slogging my way through an order with Mouser, working off of DJD's 33609 BoM. I'm looking up part numbers for capacitors and, having only one DIY project under my belt, am trying to navigate the byzantine maze of capacitors. :shock:

I'm looking for a suitable part for CJ2, a 33p silver mica cap. Is this "Mica Radial Lead Capacitors 33pF 300V +/-2%" suitable?

Also, how about this part for C19, C20, C21 - 100p silver mica caps.

Thanks in advance!

-mtw[/quote]

Hi MTW

You know you only need to populate the 'J' components if you're using a 990 op amp as opposed to building a BA340 which Igor supplies theboards for?

 

[rob_gould]

And it'll be much cheaper to use something like these for the other caps you mentioned

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=H7Zs1csUUyjNfrW%2f%2fdVPDQ%3d%3d

Wima sound good, and they're a load cheaper than the silver mica option

:thumb:

 

[mtw]

[quote author="rob_gould"]
Hi MTW

You know you only need to populate the 'J' components if you're using a 990 op amp as opposed to building a BA340 which Igor supplies theboards for?[/quote]Well I did not know that. Thanks for the clue!
I will be building the BA340 so I'll forget about all the 'J' components.

Aaaand, thanks for the tip on the WIMA caps! :thumb:

 

[mtw]

Greetings,

One more parts question... :green:

Will the Amveco 62062 power transformer do the job?

Thanks again!

 

[tommypiper]

Sorry, I've looked everywhere I can't figure this out. What voltages are available from the PSU for meters and illumination? I can't find a PSU schematic. I've only seen the PSU overlay. It shows -24 and + 24v. What is the -24v for? How do we power the 12v relays? Sorry if this is obvious, I can't seem to find it. I'm ordering parts.

 

[JdJ]

[quote author="mtw"]Greetings,

I am slogging my way through an order with Mouser, working off of DJD's 33609 BoM. I'm looking up part numbers for capacitors and, having only one DIY project under my belt, am trying to navigate the byzantine maze of capacitors. :shock:

I'm looking for a suitable part for CJ2, a 33p silver mica cap. Is this "Mica Radial Lead Capacitors 33pF 300V +/-2%" suitable?

Also, how about this part for C19, C20, C21 - 100p silver mica caps.

Thanks in advance!

-mtw[/quote]

Hey if you are going off of my BOM, there are some errors. I'll try to correct and re-upload, but for starters you do want ON-ON switches. I ended up using some from Mountain. It's a minor quibble, but the finish is definitely not as nice on the Mountain switches as it is on the C&Ks.

I also would double check the specs on the 470uf 25v electros. I had KZs listed, but they are pretty big for C15,C16 and C18. Some of the resistor values are not available in the Xicon brand. I just went down the line with the Mouser part number substituting the correct value, but it didn't always work... Lastly, double check the leads on the WIMAs I have listed. They work, but you'll have to do some lead tweaking...

When I ordered my parts, I double checked the quantities against Richard's BOM - it would be smart to do the same.

Best of luck (and sorry for all the caveats...)

JdJ V5 BOM

J

 

[loopermc5]

I don't now about lighting for the meters but theirs jumpers on the board for 12v and 24v relays so you can use both

 

[mtw]

At the risk of muddying the waters with another BoM, I worked up one combining jDj's and rhgg2's, with some added formatting. I've sourced from Mouser because working with their BoM import tool is easier than using DigiKey.

You can download it here

 

[Igor]

What voltages are available from the PSU for meters and illumination?
I can't find a PSU schematic.

PSU gives +24v and (optonal) 3...5v for adjustment.
You can connect 12v lamps in series with resistor(to lower
each lamp's voltage to 10v-longer life and more "intime" lighting).

I've only seen the PSU overlay. It shows -24 and + 24v.
What is the -24v for? How do we power the 12v relays?

-24v is -24v pin of 990-type opamp. I posted some time ago in this tread schematic. See page 10 of this tread.
Opamp works on single 24v, parts with index "j" are used for
feedback and 12v to tie opamp's + input to half-power supply voltage.

 

[Rob Flinn]

The J109 Jfet can be had from RS part no. 626-3140

 

[JdJ]

Just about done! I am a bit confused about the limit/bypass board - is the +24/-24 a tap to power something, or is it supposed to be an input connected to the PSU?

I can't tell if the 6 pin header for the limit/bypass board is connected to the +24 trace that runs right by it...

Hopefully it isn't too stupid a question...


Thanks,

Josh

 

[loopermc5]

yes you connect the limit bypass board to the psu board I beleive this supplies the switch for the relays it's how have mine anyway and it works

 

[Rob Flinn]

[quote author="JdJ"]Just about done! I am a bit confused about the limit/bypass board - is the +24/-24 a tap to power something, or is it supposed to be an input connected to the PSU?

I can't tell if the 6 pin header for the limit/bypass board is connected to the +24 trace that runs right by it...

Hopefully it isn't too stupid a question...


Thanks,

Josh[/quote]

You definitely need to hook up 24v to the relay bypass board, or else your unit will in in permanent bypass.

 

[JdJ]

Thanks guys - I figured it out by hooking up the limit bypass cable and noticing the lack of voltage at the +24/-24 pads...

Anybody figure out a good way to deal with the lip on the case interfering with the lip on the control mount plate? I kinda buggered up my bottom plate nibbling and bending it to fit
:sad:

-J

 

[Rob Flinn]

[quote author="JdJ"]Thanks guys - I figured it out by hooking up the limit bypass cable and noticing the lack of voltage at the +24/-24 pads...

Anybody figure out a good way to deal with the lip on the case interfering with the lip on the control mount plate? I kinda buggered up my bottom plate nibbling and bending it to fit
:sad:

-J[/quote]

Not understanding your problem here. I used 4 M4 nuts to space the control plate back a bit.

 

[JdJ]

[quote author="Rob Flinn"][quote author="JdJ"]Thanks guys - I figured it out by hooking up the limit bypass cable and noticing the lack of voltage at the +24/-24 pads...

Anybody figure out a good way to deal with the lip on the case interfering with the lip on the control mount plate? I kinda buggered up my bottom plate nibbling and bending it to fit
:sad:

-J[/quote]


Not understanding your problem here. I used 4 M4 nuts to space the control plate back a bit.[/quote]

Maybe I have everything backwards somehow... Do you have the control mount plate's lip facing back towards the interior of the case? Is the control plate inside of the lip on the bottom/top of the case? On mine, the lip on the bottom plate of the case doesn't afford enough room for the control plate to sit inside it, and you cant put it outside due to the lip on the control mount plate...

Any ideas what I'm doing wrong?

Duh- (slaps head) - I think I see what you are doing - putting the control plate outside of the the black inner case entirely - I ordered a few cases, so I didn't realize all of the nuts were to go to this one...




Thanks,

Josh

 

[Rob Flinn]

Josh,

That's what I'm doing. I never quite managed to work out what those angle strips that Purusha supplies are for or how to use them. I tried but it all looked a bit sloppy> SO I just used some M4 nuts as spacers on the inside of the black case then the switch panel then more M4 nuts. It's very fiddly putting it together, but seems to be much better than anything I did with those angle strips!