Official 33609 builder's tread. See 1st page for updates.

[Igor]

Hi guys, sorry, a way overloaded. Will have more time on weekend.
BTW, for people who using ungaped version of 1166
(2567 IIRC), +4 instead of +8 db:

There's resistors arround gain switch.
OLD-->NEW
1m0-->2k4
2k4-->820
820-->390
390-->240
240-->160
160-->91
91r-->75
75r-->51
51r-->43
43r-->36
130-->91

 

[Igor]

I have everything hooked up, but I'm getting some weird voltages on my channel 2 board - specifically around TR1:

TR1
E= 23.76
B= 23.21
C= Starts around 8v then drops over 10 min or so to below .1

Check out wiring. Seems wires going to byp_meter swaped...maybe...

TR13
E=apprx 9v then drops
B=apprx 9v then drops
C=23.22

Every time I power off and back on, TR13 E & B start back at 9v as well as TR1 collector starts back up at 8v and the meter pegs and stays. I have yet to calibrate, but my channel 1 doesn't do this. I have checked all solder joints and component orientation.

Ideas?

Pull out tr9 and/or tr 13, this way you can know which of
detectors (limiter or comp.) causing a prob.
If both tr9 and 13 out of schem, you don't
have gain reduction at all.

EDIT: Replaced TR1 no difference. Flipping the link switch to "IN" causes meter 1 to peg. Same problem even with Byp_Link_mtr board disconnected from channel 2 motherboard...

EDIT 2: Strangely enough I am getting a difference measuring resistance from the emitter to the collector on a bunch of the transistors between channel 1 and 2. On channel 2 (the screwy one) it seems like the ohm-meter is charging a capacitor causing the resistance to climb. On channel 1 this doesn't happen. Unfortunately all of the caps are correctly installed. Anyone know what would cause this "charging" effect?? Should I just start replacing caps at random? I'm not sure what to do... already lifted a pad replacing TR1...

Check out bc184 and 214 pinout, they should be c-b-e.
Check out wiring. Maybe there's wrong resistor's value like 47r instead of 47k...

 

[JdJ]

Thanks for checking in Igor

[quote author="Igor"]

I have everything hooked up, but I'm getting some weird voltages on my channel 2 board - specifically around TR1:

TR1
E= 23.76
B= 23.21
C= Starts around 8v then drops over 10 min or so to below .1

Check out wiring. Seems wires going to byp_meter swaped...maybe...

[/quote]

This is with the byp_meter cable disconnected too.

[quote author="Igor"]
Pull out tr9 and/or tr 13, this way you can know which of
detectors (limiter or comp.) causing a prob.
If both tr9 and 13 out of schem, you don't
have gain reduction at all.

[/quote]

I'll try this to isolate the problem. I have yet to run any signal through either channel.

So far I have replaced:

TR1
TR13
TR12
TR9
R6
TR8
TR14
TR7
D19
D11
TR15
C13
C14

I also checked to make sure that all of the pinouts were correct on transistors. (There was a 184 with the wrong pinout in the box of c's!!) Checked resistance of all resistors in side chain/meter circuits against working channel - all were same. Have yet to do top of board... All of electrolytics were pulled and checked with ohm meter.

Any more ideas?

Thanks!

Josh

 

[Underthebigtree]

I'm trying to order the toroidal power supply transformer through Avel Lindberg (the best place here in the U.S. to get them from).

They are out of the 30VA versions, but have 25VA. They won't have any more 30VA until August. Does anyone know if 25VA is enough current for the power supply?

I answered my own question. For other U.S. builders who might be looking, Igor specs 24V, 1A. You can buy the Avel Lindberg 25VAC/50VA, which will give you 1A. Part number #Y236206, avellindberg.com. As of June 17, 2008, they have them in stock.

 

[mtw]

Underthebigtree, how are you sourcing the AA144 Diodes? Are you going through Newark?

 

[Underthebigtree]

Underthebigtree, how are you sourcing the AA144 Diodes? Are you going through Newark?

Actually, another very kind DIY'er from Europe had an extra pair, and threw 'em in the mail for me. I have not found a good replacement here in the states.

However, I have been putting together a BOM for some of the hard to source stuff in the states. It isn't ready for prime time yet, but here are the tough to find transistors. You can buy substitutes from Mouser.

Tough to find transistors: Mouser Number
BC441 (2N3053 equiv) 610-2N3053
BC461 (2N4037 equiv) 610-2N4037

And to make things clear as mud, I found more BC441 information in another posting. There, a user recommends the following, as the current characteristics are a better match for the original:

BC441: 2N5320 (Mouser 610-2N5320)
BC461: 2N5322 (Mouser 610-2N5322)

 

[Rob Flinn]

Igor

How are you matching the diodes for the bridge. My friend bought a kit that arrived recently, & has asked me to assemble, which didn't have the diodes with it.

I tried using the ramp on my scope across some diodes, but I don't seem to be able to get a good enough resolution. Even 4148 diodes all seem to have the same curve.

 

[mtw]

[quote author="underthebigtree"]However, I have been putting together a BOM for some of the hard to source stuff in the states. It isn't ready for prime time yet, but here are the tough to find transistors. You can buy substitutes from Mouser.

Tough to find transistors: Mouser Number
BC441 (2N3053 equiv) 610-2N3053
BC461 (2N4037 equiv) 610-2N4037[/quote]Wow, I had come up with Mouser P/N 526-NTE324 for the BC441 but those are 4.04 a pop. Your alternate is only .47.

[quote author="underthebigtree"]And to make things clear as mud, I found more BC441 information in another posting. There, a user recommends the following, as the current characteristics are a better match for the original:

BC441: 2N5320 (Mouser 610-2N5320)
BC461: 2N5322 (Mouser 610-2N5322)[/quote]Maybe 2N5320 is the right way to go? Better current characteristics and only $1.34.

If you're interested I've pulled together my own BOM, which can be downloaded from a post I made a few pages back.

 

[Igor]

How are you matching the diodes for the bridge?

Use common digital multimeter in "diode" mode, and don't
touch diodes with fingers (Vf changes with temp.)
If your diodes say in range 0.775-0.780 it is just fine.

@JdJ : just go carefully throughout everything.
To fix the unit, I need it on my table, otherwice just can suggest.
I have no any extrasensoric abilities.

Just try to find where from the problem comes.
Pull out t9/13, check all wires, etc.

 

[JdJ]

I finally figured it out - I thought that I had both the limit and comp controls out of the circuit when I was comparing the working board with the one that wasn't working. Turns out I wasn't comparing apples to apples.


The working channel had the limit control board still attached. When I removed it, it behaved just like the "broken" channel 2.



So as a heads up to anyone who's measuring voltages against the schematic, if your limiter control board is not working/passing signal, TR1 will have the incorrect voltage on it's collector. In my case I hadn't finished soldering all of the pins on the header to the limit control board....




On to calibration!

:guinness:

[quote author="Igor"]


@JdJ : just go carefully throughout everything.
To fix the unit, I need it on my table, otherwice just can suggest.
I have no any extrasensoric abilities.

Just try to find where from the problem comes.
Pull out t9/13, check all wires, etc.[/quote]

You need to work on those abilities Igor... I think you were already sensing it was something stupid...
:grin:


Edit: Channel 1 works!!! This thing kills!!!! Marinair in & out - Carnhill interstage & original BA340's. Unfortunately my interstage transformer on channel 2 is bad - too bad I didn't check it when I received them ...
:evil:

 

[JdJ]

Okay- I'm celebrating even though I have 1 of 2 channels working...
Thanks to that bad 9045...

Thanks to all!



:guinness:

-J

 

[delaymix]

Great work! Where got the knobs? I would get these too.

 

[JdJ]

They're Sifams - I copied Waldorfcave since I liked the look of his so much. Got em in the states from Selco.


-J

 

[Igor]

@JDJ: I am happy with your unit...nice work!
Go carefully throughout testproc.,
and you have perfect baby in your studio.
Regarding extrasensoric abilities...ok, I will think about this

 

[tommypiper]

OK, I got the Carnhill 9056 outputs. How do you mount these? Is anyone in the States using U-brackets on them? If so, what's your source?

 

[Rob Flinn]

[quote author="tommypiper"]OK, I got the Carnhill 9056 outputs. How do you mount these? Is anyone in the States using U-brackets on them? If so, what's your source?[/quote]

I just used piece of angle aluminium. The transformer standson its side with it's pins on the up side, but pointing to the front of the case. I cut a slot out of the aluminium to accomodate the windings, & the screws through the laminations screw the transformer to the bracket.

I was a bit unsure whether this would feel strong enough, but it seems very solid.

 

[Rob Flinn]

double post

 

[tommypiper]

Thanks, Rob. Yes, I thought of that -- using sheet metal. I don't have aluminum brackets. I don't like the idea of having to cut a hole in it for the windings. Then you have to buy more nuts for the bolts. Are they metric, what size? Time consuming. Not looking forward to more metal work.

Seems u-brackets would be easier. If we can find a cheap source I bet others would use them too.

 

[Rob Flinn]

[quote author="tommypiper"]Thanks, Rob. Yes, I thought of that -- using sheet metal. I don't have aluminum brackets. I don't like the idea of having to cut a hole in it for the windings. Then you have to buy more nuts for the bolts. Are they metric, what size? Time consuming. Not looking forward to more metal work.

Seems u-brackets would be easier. If we can find a cheap source I bet others would use them too.[/quote]

I didn't use sheet metal I used angle aluminium, & only had to cut a U shaped slot out of it to accomodate the windings. It didn't take long a all, & it is easy to do. The nuts are M3.

I bet you've spent more time thinking about where to get the U brackets than the 1/4 hour it took me to have mine mounted in the case !!! :guinness: :guinness:

 

[Rob Flinn]

I'm having real problems with the 2 units I'm building. I have used the 9056, 10468, 31267 combination of transformers. Has anyone managed to calibrate a unit with this transformer combination ?

But many of the test voltages are not what I'd call within spec. The are kind of close but not close enough.

I'm wondering if someone who has a finished & working unit has a list of the erratas or other tweaks, because I'm wondering if I have missed something in that area ?