Official 33609 builder's tread. See 1st page for updates.

[Igor]

Rob, please write here what are these probs, will try to help.

 

[JdJ]

Rob-

Are you having the same voltages show up on both channels? Do you have all control boards hooked up? If so, did you check continuity on all of the cables between control boards and motherboards? As I mentioned previously, if the limit control board is not in the circuit, the voltages on TR1 etc will be off...


Hope it helps-

Josh

 

[Linus]

What are the original transformers for the best known/loved original? Marinair? Which models?

Is the Carnhill the closest currently manufactured replacement to get closest to the original sound? If so, which models work/fit best for this build?

I tried finding the answer in the posts but found all the models listed confusing.

Thanks again.

 

[ruairioflaherty]

[quote author="Linus"]What are the original transformers for the best known/loved original? Marinair? Which models?

Is the Carnhill the closest currently manufactured replacement to get closest to the original sound? If so, which models work/fit best for this build?

I tried finding the answer in the posts but found all the models listed confusing.

Thanks again.[/quote]

It's all in the thread. I answered this question 2 pages ago - http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=26218&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=225

In terms of transformers on the 33609 the earlier models had Marinair /St. Ives style and the later model use the Belclere. Carnhill makes recreations of the Marinair style as outlined elsewhere in the thread.

Take the time to search for info on the Neve 2254 and 33609 here, at Aurora Audio and on Gearslutz. You'll find tons of posts with great info which will clear up all of the differences between the models - look out for info from Geoff Tanner, Tekay, Igor (IJR), Zmix (Chuck Zwicky) and many others.

cheers,
Ruairi

 

[Rob Flinn]

I found one problem with the BA340. The particuar BC214 that I am using need to be installed so the transistor is the other way round to the screen printed legend on the pcb. i.e similar to the orientation of the BC184.

 

[Rob Flinn]

Igor

1st calibration problem

I am using 31267. 10468, 9056 transformer combination.

test procedure 4.2 I cannot turn RV2 down enough to get -20dB output. The best I can get is about -10dB.

any ideas ?

 

[JdJ]

Rob-

This is with 3v on the link pin? With my 31267, VTB9045 and LO1173s I had no problem, but then again, I think I am a bit confused about the proper voltage at -20db. It should be 1/10 of .775v = .0775, right?

Stupid question:

How are those using the AL19 scaling things? Does 100 = -20db reduction?

-Josh

 

[Rob Flinn]

Josh I just printed off a scale that some one put up for the GSSL & stuck that on top of the supplied scale.

I think you are right about 1/10 at -20dB. However I have been using a dB meter that I have that has 2 i/p's so that you can genuinely compare the inut to the output & that is showing a max of -10dB with the trimmer on minimum.

 

[JdJ]

Thanks Rob-

I was doing something similar since I wasn't sure - going back through my A/D to use metering in the box till I saw the -20db drop.

So the GSSL scale is the same? Good to know. I was wondering about Waldorfcave's unit as his pictures have the original scale on them.

Wish I could help you with the trimmer issue. All other voltages check out now?

Cheers,

Josh

 

[AudioCommand]

Hey,

I have a problem by the test 3.2 ...!


I loos on my output 0,7dbu but my trimmer TR1 is on max !

Wath can I do?

Thank's

DOM

 

[JdJ]

[quote author="AudioCommand"]Hey,

I have a problem by the test 3.2 ...!


I loos on my output 0,7dbu but my trimmer TR1 is on max !

Wath can I do?

Thank's

DOM[/quote]

I had a similar problem. It turned out that one of my interstage transformers was bad. I replaced it and all was well. Are both of the channels having problems? If not, try swapping transformers.

Hope it helps,

Josh

 

[loopermc5]

I also had same problem except i had the wrong transformer hooked up to the interstage

 

[JdJ]

Hey folks-

Just re-re calibrated my unit and all is well. Just wanted to mention that with the Elmas for threshold, on calibration step 5.2, I am getting gain reduction in the compressor with the threshold set to 0dB with a 0dB (1khz .775v RMS) signal on the input. No big deal really, +4dB on the threshold seems to be 0. Both channels are the same, and when I drop the threshold to -20dB I get -16dB on the output (.123v RMS).

EDIT: That's not to say my unit is correct - I'm just not ready to start pulling everything apart again for such a simple quirk :roll:

Just thought it might help if someone was scratching their head...

-Josh

 

[SWNYC]

I have a question regarding mounting the Elma rotary switches. I'm using 2 bushing nuts to allow the switch to mount flush with the panel and compensate for the lack of a "key" in the panel cut out. This seems to work well and the length of the bushing is consistent with that of the Lorlins.

Is this what everyone else is doing and does anyone for-see any problems with this method?

 

[JdJ]

That sounds like it should work just fine. I was planning on going that route actually, but I couldn't find the correct pitch nuts. Instead I used star shaped lock washers that I cut one tang off of (radially through to the i.d. of the washer). The slot compensated for the key on the switch, and then I used a couple of washers to space it off of the control plate.


Cheers,

Josh

 

[SWNYC]

Thanks Josh,

I now have to find additional bushing nuts to finish a second unit and although yet to look, I suspected they would be difficult to find. Therefore, does anyone know where to get Elma part # 4124-41 or an equivalent M10x0,75 thread Hex nut?

 

[maxheadroom]

i have almost the transformers for the input and output (31267 and LO1173)
can anybody recommend any trany for the interstage that is available or gettable?

 

[Rob Flinn]

[quote author="SWNYC"]I have a question regarding mounting the Elma rotary switches. I'm using 2 bushing nuts to allow the switch to mount flush with the panel and compensate for the lack of a "key" in the panel cut out. This seems to work well and the length of the bushing is consistent with that of the Lorlins.

Is this what everyone else is doing and does anyone for-see any problems with this method?[/quote]

I just drilled a hole in the galvanised panel for each elma so there was a key for it to lock into.

 

[SWNYC]

Thanks Rob,
Is this why you used M4 nuts to set the galvanized panel back from the front panel? Without the unit in front of me, I seem to remember the Elma bushings more forward than the Lorlins when using the key cut-out. I may elect to do just that if my prospects of getting the bushing nuts doesn't pan out. Thanks again..

 

[JdJ]

[quote author="SWNYC"]Thanks Josh,

I now have to find additional bushing nuts to finish a second unit and although yet to look, I suspected they would be difficult to find. Therefore, does anyone know where to get Elma part # 4124-41 or an equivalent M10x0,75 thread Hex nut?[/quote]

That's why I used washers- couldn't find any nuts. The star washer thing worked quite nicely, then I used 2 additional flat washers so my knobs wouldn't bottom on the shaft. [Insert sick joke at will]

-J