Official 33609 builder's tread. See 1st page for updates.

[Igor]

Hi, it can work with 990' style opamp.
AFAIK JLM opamps are best on +/-(24-28)v...
here it runs on single 24v, but should be OK.

Just install components with index"j", sorry for rough dwg:

 

[Axelerator]

so i will try some jlm opamps for this projekt..
thanks for the drawings!
..mmmhh maybe i should give his trannys a try also..
greets
axel

 

[Axelerator]

just saw that he has a +-16v version..should be almost there!
axel

 

[JdJ]

[quote author="Ghengis"]Hi All,

Just a quick question or 2:

What is everyone using for sockets/pins for the 340? Looking at the PCB picture, they are a little smaller than the standard 2520 footprint pins/sockets. Does anyone have a mouser number?
[/quote]

These seem to fit if you break them into single pins:

506-510-AG90D

That's my plan, but I have yet to solder them in. Should be enough friction to stay in place, but I'm not sure of how it will stay put if the unit is jostled around...

-J

 

[Rob Flinn]

Anyone know a of a UK source for the J109 fet ??

Or is there something a bit more available I can sub in here ????

 

[rob_gould]

[quote author="Rob Flinn"]Anyone know a of a UK source for the J109 fet ??

Or is there something a bit more available I can sub in here ????[/quote]

Hi Rob,

Try this part number at Farnell:

1467947

:thumb:

 

[inputoutput]

some stuff I've noticed in the building process.

The four Toggle-switches (Farnell 9575049) in Igors and the other BOMs point to a ON-OFF-ON switch. The correct switch should be an ON-ON toggle-switch, right?

In the Volt-scheme, the numbers on the signal-output are wrong, compared to the pcb. PIN2 should go to ground.

And, On the main-pcb it says BYP_LINK_MTR over the 6PIN MOLEX. It should be the other way around MTR_LINK_BYP

please correct me if I'm wrong

 

[Ghengis]

Hi inputandoutput,

Re: The four Toggle-switches (Farnell 9575049) in Igors and the other BOMs point to a ON-OFF-ON switch. The correct switch should be an ON-ON toggle-switch, right?

I've already talked to Igor about this and has confirmed that is correct - they are both ON-ON switches which makes perfect sense!

cya
Ghengis

 

[Rob Flinn]

[quote author="rob_gould"][quote author="Rob Flinn"]Anyone know a of a UK source for the J109 fet ??

Or is there something a bit more available I can sub in here ????[/quote]

Hi Rob,

Try this part number at Farnell:

1467947

:thumb:[/quote]

Rob thanks for that !

 

[Igor]

The four Toggle-switches (Farnell 9575049) in Igors and the other BOMs point to a ON-OFF-ON switch. The correct switch should be an ON-ON toggle-switch, right?

In the Volt-scheme, the numbers on the signal-output are wrong, compared to the pcb. PIN2 should go to ground.

And, On the main-pcb it says BYP_LINK_MTR over the 6PIN MOLEX. It should be the other way around MTR_LINK_BYP

Switches should be on-on, this Farnell Nr was supplied by Tat
about a half year ago here:
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=25172&start=0
maybe Franell made some changes in catalogue.
Try this:
9473610
should be OK

Please clarify about signal-output, what do you mean.

I don't see here any mistakes, but.. God knows

Regarding byp_meter cable, just wire and connect, it works.

If you have troubles with this project, will try to help
when have a free min.

 

[inputoutput]

hey Igor, thanks for a making this cool project

If you look at the signal output, on the right of the pic called "33609_SCHEM_VOLT.jpg", the numbers differs from the PCB. On the jpg, nr3 goes to 'screen', but on the pcb - PIN2 seems to go to screen/ground.

On the Byb_meter cable - it's just the writing above the PIN on the main pcb that I think should be the other way around. The two pins at the right - close to the PWR input should be BYP.

 

[rob_gould]

[quote author="Rob Flinn"][quote author="rob_gould"][quote author="Rob Flinn"]Anyone know a of a UK source for the J109 fet ??

Or is there something a bit more available I can sub in here ????[/quote]

Hi Rob,

Try this part number at Farnell:

1467947

:thumb:[/quote]

Rob thanks for that ![/quote]

No probs Rob.

If you or any other European buyer is having trouble finding any other bits, I must give the credit to rhgg2 for his BOM which I've used to get everything so far. I haven't verified it completely, but I've stuffed main boards, BA340s and PSU and I haven't run into any errors so far:

[quote author="rhgg2"]Thanks Igor.

Here is a European BOM with Farnell order codes. Caps are Wima polys, Panasonic & Rubycon lytics. BOM is everything you need for 2 channels, hopefully...

BOM

Richard[/quote]

 

[Igor]

If you look at the signal output, on the right of the pic called "33609_SCHEM_VOLT.jpg", the numbers differs from the PCB. On the jpg, nr3 goes to 'screen', but on the pcb - PIN2 seems to go to screen/ground.

On the Byb_meter cable - it's just the writing above the PIN on the main pcb that I think should be the other way around. The two pins at the right - close to the PWR input should be BYP

YAP...my bad....you mean signal output, right???

1 HI
2 GND
3 LOW

THIS IS CORRECT...THANX!!!!!
I allways use +123- for 3pin Molex connectors on in/outs...
sorry, just a human mistake when automatically placed
numbers in photoshop.
UPDATED ON 1ST PAGE.

I am just a human bean...

Regarding byp_meter cable, 1 goes to 1, 2 goes to 2, etc...
What is not clear here? Please let me know!

 

[inputoutput]

well, Your numbers are correct, but the writings above the Bypass Board 6pin molex made me think twice, cause they are the other way around. So if you'll be making a 1.3 version one day, you could write MTR_LINK_BYP, instead of BYP_LINK_MTR. ....a bagatelle.

 

[JdJ]

[quote author="inputoutput"]some stuff I've noticed in the building process.

The four Toggle-switches (Farnell 9575049) in Igors and the other BOMs point to a ON-OFF-ON switch. The correct switch should be an ON-ON toggle-switch, right?
[/quote]

Anyone care to comment on what'll happen with an on-off-on switch? Signal drop-out in between contact points? I bought on-off-on instead of on-on.

Thanks,

Josh

[EDIT] Okay - I'm stupid. Just looked at the switches - I thought the "off " was momentary, but in fact there is a center detent - BACK THEY GO!

 

[inputoutput]

look at the pcb. as far as I can remember, they are just normal 2 pole on-off switches. So it will work fine, and look the same. But not feel the same.

Anyway, I'm not the one that should be telling you this. My 33609 don't work! Looking at the scope, my signal gets all messed up around the D18 & D19 area. The exact same thing happens on both boards.. there's definitively something I've done wrong. but what can it be?

sending the signal from the second transformer and out, everything seems fine. And the relays work fine. All the voltage-points checked so far are spot on correct compared to the igors volt-schem.- There's no reaction in the signal if I turn the knobs on the front. (except the bypass)

ps : Maybe the ones that have finished their units, could post HIGH-RES guts pictures? To see finished v1.2 boards might help...

 

[Igor]

Anyway, I'm not the one that should be telling you this. My 33609 don't work! Looking at the scope, my signal gets all messed up around the D18 & D19 area. The exact same thing happens on both boards.. there's definitively something I've done wrong. but what can it be?

sending the signal from the second transformer and out, everything seems fine. And the relays work fine. - There's no reaction in the signal if I turn the knobs on the front. (except the bypass)

ps : Maybe the ones that have finished their units, could post HIGH-RES guts pictures? To see finished v1.2 boards might help...

Will post hi-res pics in next hour-two.

So, if you putting signal to pri of interstage trafo it appears OK after output trafo, right?
Did you connected both lim amd comp cables going to front?
Are 4153 diodes installed right? Which type of input trafo used?
Please check twice if TR 3,4, 16, 17 installed correct.
There's 2 types of BC214, one ebc and second bce.
Check all resistors values across.
Check voltages on tr3,4 according to schem.
Try to see if there's signal on secondary of input trafo,
it is completely floated, you have to connect scope _across_ secondary.
It is easy to do on 5-pin connector near trafo.
If you feed 0db, at secondary should be -6 db.
Check waveform on TP A,B, should be -31db one in, one out of phase.
If you can post picture, will help a lot.

(edit: seems after replacing bc184l to 184c you'll get it working

 

[Livingroom]

Hi Igor and thanks for a great project :grin: , I have a simple question for you.
The resistor R44 on the main pcb, should it be of a higher wattage than the main rest of them?
I seem to get 2 of my 340 transistors awfully hot if the trimpot (340) isn't at its ccw minimum and the R44 sometimes goes down as a cause of that. It supplies the amp I see on the schemo.
What about a heatsink on the 340? I seem to recall a discussion about that a while ago.

 

[codered]

Small tip to the US builders- for trimmers Murata has the 25 turn sealed cermet trimmer which is half the cost of the Bourns.The saving is about $10.00.If anybody feels that the Murata is not as good as Bourns please let me know.

 

[Livingroom]

Regarding my last post, I just found a short on my 340's. Fixed it and now things seem a lot better :grin: