PASSIVE RELAY-BASED CONTROLL ROOM KITS BUILD/SUPPORT TREAD

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Talkback combiner can be supplied from digital (12v) power supply, I used for this purpose $10 1W DC-DC converter (12->+/-15V).
In this case, TB combiner's ground fully separeted from digital ground.
Igor, can you tell me which DC-DC converter U used?
 
Igor said:
Are the trim settings lost when the unit is plugged out?  If so is there any way around this - a battery backup or a cap perhaps?
 

Yes and no. You can store current settings as initial, by pressing TRIM for 10 sec. System will start from stored settings as default.
All offsets, level, system state will be saved as well.

This is all I need, once the unit boots with saved settings that is good enough.  It's mainly for the Mono button and the various speakers that you want it to be always the same.  For other level matching during a session it will always be changing anyhow.  Good solution as usual Igor!

Igor said:
i know this is a budget minded controller so I don't expect miracles, the important thing is the audio quality and we know that is good.

HMMMM.....I'd say it is not budget quality-wise...

Sorry I was not clear.  I have no doubts about the quality, I just want you to know that I do not expect the sun, moon and stars for €340!  I think this is an amazing kit.  I hope my questions will have been of use to other interested people too.

Stay well Igor,
Ruairi
 
Jeremy.Starseed said:
Hi.

Did I see the word "kit" somewhere toward the end of this thread? :p

I am curious...maybe not enough to build this thing from scratch, but a kit....niiiiice :)

What is included, and what would a rough estimate of cost be ?

Very nice example a few posts above btw. drool-worthy, even B)

Jeremy

All details are in Igor's Black market Sticky

Ordering:

http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=29771.0

Look our for Purusha's cases on offer too.

Total would be very approx €500 depending on shipping (kit, case and PSU)

Cheers,
Ruairi
 
OOPS...Just started to print and you answered better than me and on better english:)
Thanx!
 
Igor, can you tell me which DC-DC converter U used?
Hi Moby, this one:
http://il.farnell.com/murata-power-solutions/mea1d1215sc/converter-dc-dc-sil-1w-15v/dp/1671264?_requestid=533100
farnell p/n 1671264
All info regarding talkback combiner:
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=31609.0
 
This looks pretty awesome. I'll be ordering a kit as soon as I figure out some details for putting the whole thing together.

I've got a question:

What is the audio connector labeled "TBK/MTR" for? I'm assuming that stands for Talkbalk and Matrix, but on Purusha's cases it is labeled external phone amp. Can this output be used for different purposes?

Also, does the price for the CRM kit include the talkbalk combiner or is that an independent kit?

Thanks!

-Josh
 
What is the audio connector labeled "TBK/MTR" for?

It is monitored signal before level control and "talkback_on" logic output.
Can be used to connect VU-meter or phones amplifier.

Also, does the price for the CRM kit include the talkbalk combiner or is that an independent kit?

No, talkback combiner pcb is not included in kit. I can combine shipping for both.
 
Hi!
I've started soldering on my pcb's. They look amazing!
However I couldn't find the reset button and photo resistor in the kit.
Since I am still a bit unexperienced with this stuff I was hoping someone could give me a link or something
on the Farnell pages or parts number since I am about to order some stuff from them anyway?

Thank you!
 
Hi Henning, it is all optional stuff. Power on/off in case to reset, unit will start from initial
settings, you can store every setup as initial by pressing down for 5-10 sec "trim" (offset) button.
Instead of LDR, just use 5k6-7k5 resistor.
 
Got my kit! Thanks Igor!

However, I am missing 5 of the relays. I haven't been able to source the same relay part # from Newark or Mouser (two places I will be ordering from soon.) I'd rather not place a separate order for these. Will any 1A/24VDC DPDT relay with the right footprint work?

-Yosh
 
Hi Igor,

Is it assumed that the "talkback combiner" can be used independently from the "CRM"?
And do you have any talkback combiners left?

Sylvain


(p.s. please ignore my PM.  this was an error :-[)
 
Got your PM, yes, I have some tens left, but prefer to sell them with CRM kits.
Here is the thread for tech info, questions like this please pm or black market.
 
Hey Igor,

Just finishing off the soldering for this, and I have a couple of questions:

1.  I got 2 x 220uf caps, and 2 x 150uf caps, but the boards have space for 4 x 220uf caps (C6, C7, C8, C16).  Have I got the wrong caps, or is there an error on the boards?

2.  I have 4 x 7k5 resistors remaining, and the only spaces left on the board is for RL1 - 4, which is designated as 4k3.  Is 4k3 correct here?

3.  I'm missing the heatsink for one of the 7805s, and I see that the audio board in your photos doesn't have one either.  Is it a risk to leave it out altogether?

4.  I'm thinking about changing the  green LEDs for red LEDs.  Can you tell me whether the ones you sent are common anode or common cathode?  These are the ones I'm going to get:

http://www.rapidonline.com/Electronic-Components/Optoelectronics/LED-Displays/10.9mm-(0.43in)-LED-Display/29382

Thanks!

Rob
 
Hi Rob,
1.  I got 2 x 220uf caps, and 2 x 150uf caps, but the boards have space for 4 x 220uf caps (C6, C7, C8, C16).  Have I got the wrong caps, or is there an error on the boards?
Use higher voltage at 12v side, lower at 5v side. IIRC 150uf for 5v. There's no matter capacitance, should be something in (470-100uf) range.
2.  I have 4 x 7k5 resistors remaining, and the only spaces left on the board is for RL1 - 4, which is designated as 4k3.  Is 4k3 correct here?
4k3 is right value. Let me know if your amp impedance less than 10k.
3.  I'm missing the heatsink for one of the 7805s, and I see that the audio board in your photos doesn't have one either.  Is it a risk to leave it out altogether?
Unless talkback combiner used and feed from 5v, no need for heatsink on 7805 at audio board.
I have some tens of 5->+/-15 V converters and used this on proto to feed talkback combiner,
however, 7805 was pretty hot but tolerable without heatsink. Better is to feed talkback combiner from 12->+/-15 converter.
P/N's were discussed before IIRC.
4.  I'm thinking about changing the  green LEDs for red LEDs.  Can you tell me whether the ones you sent are common anode or common cathode? 

Common anode, please compare datasheet to schematic by pin Nr's. Pin 14 common anode, 1=A, 13=B, 10=C...pin9=DP...etc.
Here's Farnell p/n's:
http://uk.farnell.com/avago-technologies/5082-7650/led-display-0-43-he-red/dp/1175577?_requestid=353990
http://uk.farnell.com/avago-technologies/5082-7651/led-display-0-43-he-red/dp/1175582?_requestid=354031

http://il.farnell.com/jsp/level5/module.jsp?moduleId=en/206269.xml
 
considering I dont know anything about DIY:

I want to buy the cables for inputs/outputs. my question is will a standard 8 channel cable (25 pin to xlrs) work alright? or do I need the schematics of the pins and make it custom by myself?
 
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