Real fuses, not breakers? So that means the wiring is more than 55 years old? I guess that is consistent with no separate earth on the circuits.
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Real fuses, not breakers? So that means the wiring is more than 55 years old? I guess that is consistent with no separate earth on the circuits.
House is old and cheaply built****. The old fuse box has Edison base fuses. I have replaced all the too large branch circuit fuses with 15A fast blow fuses. I have a smoke detector but rather not have a house fire to test it.
Back several years ago I tried to hire an electrician to drop in a new 4 wire service for my oven when I had to replace it. That electrician never returned my phone calls so I ended up installing the oven myself wiring to the existing service. IIRC the oven owner's manual described a bootleg ground wiring scheme that appears to have worked adequately (for several years now).
JR
**** In a few decades living here I have had to deal with several too cheap to last corner's cut in the original construction. #1- I had to replace the sewer connection when the paper/cardboard sewer pipe collapsed. #2- I replaced the water main when the original galvanized pipe sprung a leak flooding my yard. #3- I am too cheap to rewire the entire house, but have installed GFCI outlets in every room near water/plumbing. Further I ran a separate DIY safety ground wire from the fuse box in the laundry room to my one outlet next to the kitchen sink (so most of my kitchen appliances are both GFCI and real EGC protected). My laundry room outlet, that also powers my kitchen dishwasher likewise has GFCI and DIY EGC. Likewise I have grounded my copper plumbing to my fuse panel (I did have some drama when my old hot water heater rusted through the heater box and energized my shower water). Shock me once shame on somebody else, shock me again, shame on me.
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I am a fan of using UV light to control undesirable microbes. I even located a CFL UVc bulb (similar to the image) inside the 8" air duct circulating air from my main room to my back bedroom. The air circulation helped me heat/cool my entire house with one 2T heat pump. This spring I added another ton and half heat pump to my back bedroom, so the air circulation is no longer needed as much. I recently moved a dehumidifier into the bathroom so it can drain water into the tub. Now the bathroom is getting heated and the dehumidifier is not effectively drying the entire house.Today I made a DIY leaky coupling to the output side of the blower to leak some of the cooled air from the main room into the bathroom and simultaneously push dry warm bathroom air out to the rest of the house for cooling.
I noticed that the 25W CFL UVc lamp inside the air duct was still working but was literally falling apart from even light handling (I unscrewed and discarded it). Even though the lamp appears to have a ceramic base it did not like continuous duty operation inside a closed air duct, despite plenty of air flow.
I bought a 15W replacement lamp that should run cooler.
JR
Hmmm ... not being critical, but I wonder about the propriety of enclosing a light bulb in a closed space with a substantial amount of dust nearby ... but then maybe I am more of a worrier than a warrior.
Are you sure the lower wattage bulb emits sufficient UV to truly sanitize the air as it moves through the duct?
I presume you the old bulb was on all the time ... but was air being forced through the duct all the time? Were there times when the heat pump or fan were off?
Fascinating idea ... Neat notion, as long as the bulb is a) cool enough, and b) has sufficient oomph to really sanitize the air passing through the duct.
Fun stuff. James
worry can be useful, but I do not see much dust accumulation or fire risk. I also run conventional air cleaners in my house.Hmmm ... not being critical, but I wonder about the propriety of enclosing a light bulb in a closed space with a substantial amount of dust nearby ... but then maybe I am more of a worrier than a warrior.
My old black mold problem is pretty much under control after years of mitigation efforts. My strongest weapon is dehumidification. When black mold is dying it releases massive amounts of spores but I am well past that stage. I am not looking for 100% but over time running indoor air past any amount of UVc radiation will reduce the microbial load. I had a similar size (25W CFL UVc) lamp that also made some ozone, but that ozone was clearly too irritating to circulate in my home air. I now use that 25W UVc+ozone bulb for sanitizing my beer fermenter. The replacement 15W UVc lamp should run proportionately cooler.
I have a wall switch that can cut off the blower, and a 3 position blower speed switch on the blower (basically capacitors wired in series with the fan motor).The lamp is wired in parallel with the blower, so lamp is on only when the blower is on.
It is not completely clear why the old lamp fell apart. UV light can destroy some plastics, and prolonged high temperature can degrade anything. One tidbit, the lamp is mounted horizontally FWIW. Perhaps the light/heat degraded the adhesive holding the fluorescent glass tubes to the ceramic base.
Another possible variation is disconnecting the input duct that is now drawing cooled/heated air from my main room, so it could draw air directly from the bathroom and dump it into my bedroom that now has excess heating/cooling capacity.
JR
Today's entropy report was a little unexpected. My pour over coffee rig is a Rube Goldberg hodge podge of several components from different coffee makers combined together to make what I consider "good" coffee. My typical morning routine involves rinsing off the sundry components and maybe once every couple weeks running them through the dishwasher. I use a combination of paper coffer filters and paperless metal mesh filters. I end up with two paper filters in series. One immediately under the paperless melita metal screen, and a second paper filter in the bottom of the rig to catch even more sediment. Yesterday while cleaning one piece, an old paperless steel mesh Melita pour over filter, I noticed that about the bottom 1/4" or more of the metal filter was blocked with caked on coffee sediment slowing the drainage time.
This morning with the mesh now clean and open, the coffee flowed through faster and the coffee tasted cleaner (weaker?), but generally better.
I can't find an identical replacement but there are sundry different modern metal pour over filters, so I ordered two different ones to experiment with. How quickly they empty makes a difference to the coffee end result.
JR
This morning with the mesh now clean and open, the coffee flowed through faster and the coffee tasted cleaner (weaker?), but generally better.
I can't find an identical replacement but there are sundry different modern metal pour over filters, so I ordered two different ones to experiment with. How quickly they empty makes a difference to the coffee end result.
JR
Sheesh! You engineers can sure make things complicated! After all, we are just pouring hot water over coffee grinds - pretty simple, eh? (If you are getting sludge in your cup, you simply need a better filter or a coarser grind.)
These are my pour-over coffee filter holders - none of which is complicated and cost from just $1 to $8 at most. They all work equally well because the filter does all the work! But I don't suppose I will win any engineering awards for my process !
[Ahem ... My cut-off funnels keep my post on topic as a simple DIY project. ]
Just MY take ... your mileage may vary.
James
This is as complicated and as technical as it needs to be!! JHR
Pour over coffee brewing is like a multi-variate equation with too many variables. Extraction of goodness and badness from coffee grounds depends upon temperature and duration (time) the grounds are in contact with hot water (not to mention fineness or coarseness of grounds).
I observed today while rinsing out my recently cleaned paperless melita pour-over filter that it appeared to be clogging up again. No problem, I have two different paperless cone filters on order to experiment with.
Curiously I recall using paper before the metal filter slowed down the flow through vs. metal before the paper. This slower flow through, caused over extraction that reveals more bitterness notes than the quicker flow through using metal first.
JR
PS: Ideally I'd like to just replace the old clog prone metal filter, but it is no longer available, or at least I couldn't find one for sale.
I observed today while rinsing out my recently cleaned paperless melita pour-over filter that it appeared to be clogging up again. No problem, I have two different paperless cone filters on order to experiment with.
Curiously I recall using paper before the metal filter slowed down the flow through vs. metal before the paper. This slower flow through, caused over extraction that reveals more bitterness notes than the quicker flow through using metal first.
JR
PS: Ideally I'd like to just replace the old clog prone metal filter, but it is no longer available, or at least I couldn't find one for sale.
I thought they took those filters off the market because of some kind of toxic problem with them.
Yes ... but you are STILL working too hard at this !!!
My recipe:
* Pour 7 oz (220 g) of 190-195 degree F water over
* 1.5 tablespoon (rounded tablespoon - 15-17 g) fine grind coffee,
* brew/soak grounds 2 - 2.5 minutes.
It is just hot water run through ground coffee for around two minutes - longer if you want more caffeine. It only gets complicated if you obsess over it !
Yep - too finely ground clogs both paper and paperless, which IS an aggravation.
Cool beans. I use paper filters because paperless holders are too dag blamed hard to clean without rinsing spent grounds down the sink (which eventually clogs the drain.) Paper is so much more convenient, just drop in the trash bin. I use the natural, non-bleached type.
I ALSO BREW LOOSE TEA the same way.
Yep - Right - Once again, timing is the essence of good comedy!
BOTTOM LINE - it turns on 1) sourcing good beans with the right roast level, 2) correct grind, and 3) optimum brew time. As I roast my own beans, I control all variables and get what I like every day.
If you don't roast your own, the key is sourcing a good blend of beans properly roasted at an affordable price. As I hate paying big money for anything simple, I source green beans from a local commercial roaster for around $7 a lb. He charges $16 a lb for roasted coffee - so I get the same result for lower cost ... allowing better bourbon.
Good luck with your new filter holders! Tell us what you get and how they work out.
James
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I like to say that life is too short to tolerate inferior beverages. Thats why I make my own beer and coffee.Yes ... but you are STILL working too hard at this !!!
I do not obsess. My coffee making routine is pretty much on automatic pilot. I have a temperature regulated kettle that delivers 1 liter of 200' water quickly.My recipe:
* Pour 7 oz (220 g) of 190-195 degree F water over* 1.5 tablespoon (rounded tablespoon - 15-17 g) fine grind coffee,* brew/soak grounds 2 - 2.5 minutes.
It is just hot water run through ground coffee for around two minutes - longer if you want more caffeine. It only gets complicated if you obsess over it !
I haven't tweaked my grind coarseness for a long time I have a decent burr grinder that works well.
I am not aware of coffee grounds clogging a sink, while I dump mine into my compost heap. Along with the paper filters since they are biodegradable too.
I use the cheapest I can find.
I have a nice Japanese tea pot but don't drink much hot tea in this weather.
Preaching to the chior
or ask him where he gets his? I buy my green beans from Sweet Marias, a major importer located in Oakland (was Seattle). He buys great coffee from all around the world and charges fair prices.
Roger wilco.
JR
As promised I just finished my first brew using a new metal filter. Objectively it seems to empty slightly slower which should result in slightly more extraction (stronger coffee). Subjectively it tastes a little stronger but still good.
Over extraction can cause bitter flavor notes, this brew still tastes very good.
I approve.
JR
My new slow draining metal filter is harder to clean without letting grounds go down the kitchen sink... I'll see how that works out.
JR
JR
I am bailing on the slow draining metal filter, I could have reduced the number of grounds but it is harder to clean because of the slow draining ...
I found some that look like my original (?) clogging up one.
===
My ABS braked idiot light apparently healed itself. Probably an intermittent connection to a wheel sensor. Don't need to fix it until it stays broken. The normal brakes still work. The ABS brakes saved my front end once when some bubba ran a red light cutting me off. The ABS allowed me to hard brake "and" steer, thus avoiding the collision.
JR
deveng
Well-known member
Coffee makers. I love them and hate them. They don't last and by the time they break you may or may not be able to find parts to fix. They aren't cheap anymore for new ones. I have Crux 14 cup unit that has been good for 10 years! Then.....intermittent percolate or none at all. Opened up the controls and found a single 100uf 16v electrolytic. Replaced with a 100uf 25v I had on hand. Works like a charm again. About 20 minutes of work. This is not typical as the last two couldn't be fixed. I saved a place in the landfill and about $100 for a new unit.
I'm old school. I try to fix everything before tossing. Sometimes I win, sometimes I lose but most of time I come out as a winner.
I'm old school. I try to fix everything before tossing. Sometimes I win, sometimes I lose but most of time I come out as a winner.
People typically underestimate the engineering content inside cheap drip coffee makers. The heater that boils water generally pushes it up through a narrow plastic tube to drip out above the coffee grounds. If they manage it right, the water dripping out has cooled down into the 200' ballpark for optimal extraction.
JR
Mine are getting pretty old - but then my Gaggia Espresso Machine only pulls two shots a day!
GREAT you could fix your old friend - that is a win for sure. about $100 for a new unit.
Ha!
Once again you are unduly sticking up for engineers !! While I don't knock any team I am on, methinks you are reaching a little far this time!
Boiling water until steam pressure pushes it through a capillary tube to drip through coffee grinds is NOT complicated! Shoot, traditional simple percolators, and Bialeti mocha pots, do this with no electronics at all. Put the pot on the fire until the water boils and steam pressure pushes it through a tube to drip on ground beans. That is about as simple and as basic as it gets. It complies with the laws of physics, and may be patterned after geysers in Yosemite ... (notice I said geysers, not "geezers" ...) (He typed, all in good humor.)
Maybe I missed something in school, but boiling water until it steams into the upper chamber is pretty basic. Or, is it?
Of course, that is just MY take.
James
(reaching for his Teflon(R) suit, waiting to be scalded for this one!)
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This is my 12 year old Gaggia Espresso machine with small footprint, but commercial grade full size brew group, typically used twice daily. I have a newer one in the kitchen - so this older model is now relocated outside my ham shack. I am confident we agree good coffee is a major food group.
My wife and I bought a couple of fairly large ozone generators to nix the cigarette smell in her Dad's house after he passed away. We use them in our own home every now and then to kill mold and musty smells, and temporarily clear out the unending spider infestation. I turn the central AC fan on so it'll circulate the air and pull ozone throughout the ductwork, then set the ozonator timers to max and leave for 6 or 8 hours. When we return, we'll open the windows for half an hour or so, and all that remains is a clean smell somewhat like the smell after a really major lightning storm (go figure, lol), but stronger. Works very well.
Have you guys ever tried a French press? You get a really thorough extraction yet it's hard to over-extract because (1) the coffee grounds end up bathed in a relatively saturated solution that prevents a lot of additional extraction, and (2) you need to use a coarse grind anyway. Great flavor and very full body, without bitterness, The only issue is that you do end up with a bit of sediment in the bottom of that last cup if you're not careful.
BTW, that's a NICE espresso machine, James! I'd love to wrap my taste buds around a double shot from that thing... ooh lah lah!
The UVc + ozone is uncomfortable to use inside my air duct because of the ozone, but I use the 25w UVc+ozone bulb to sanitize my glass beer brewing fermenter, I have it on an X hour timer.
Been there done that... with french press you can control extraction somewhat by how long you wait before hitting the plunger. Not fun to clean.
When I was a yout my mother had a vacuum pot...
You put coffee grounds in the top and fill up bottom with water. Boiling the water pumps it up into the top and mixes with the coffee grounds. When removed from the heat, it cools and the vacuum created in the empty bottom sucks the coffee back down through a cloth filter. An obvious benefit of both of these is that the coffee does not get heated after the initial boil and brew.JR
