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Last week while doing my grocery shopping my credit card was rejected. I was able to use some of my old fashioned walking around money (AKA cash) to pay for the groceries. This happened once before and I was able to rehab the CC by cleaning the electrical contact on the face of the CC with a pencil eraser.

Today it worked like it was supposed to. I just ordered some RFID sleeves to protect the CC while sitting in my wallet.

JR

PS: I think I read somewhere that you can scrub dirt off the contacts with a clean dollar bill.... I didn't think to try that last week.
 
Perhaps its the flaky ABS controller that's failing to link up?
Possibly. In fact, that's what my mobile mechanic told me when he couldn't connect. But I was able to with a different scanner.
What scanner did you get?
I didn't look into your car but I know my son's kia had some CAN protocol stuff and the scanner I picked up was compatible...
 
Possibly. In fact, that's what my mobile mechanic told me when he couldn't connect. But I was able to with a different scanner.
What scanner did you get?
I didn't look into your car but I know my son's kia had some CAN protocol stuff and the scanner I picked up was compatible...
yes, definitely can-bus and my new Autel AL549 scanner connects and reads the OBD codes, just wont link to the abs system to read abs status.

  • 【2024 Newest Autel OBD2 Scanner Autolink AL549】Autel AL549 is a 3-in-1 multifunctional OBD2 diagnostic solution: ✅Complete OBD2 Diagnostic function including all 10 modes OBDII test, One-click I/M Readiness check, read live data, turn off CEL(check engine light) or MIL and etc; ✅Read and erase ABS codes, turn off ABS warning lights and etc; ✅universal car starting and charging system testing.
  • 【Full OBD2 Functions】As the upgrade version of Autel AL519, AL529 and AL539, Autel Autolink AL549 check engine code reader supports all 10 modes OBDII test such as read codes, erase codes, live data, view freeze frame data, patented one-click I/M readiness test, on-board monitor test, component test, retrieve vehicle info, module present and etc. In addition, AL549 can read Enhanced Codes in Powertrain system for Ford, GM and Chrysler.
  • 【ABS Diagnosing Using Autel AL549】Autel AL549 is also an universal ABS code reader that is able to be used to retrieve and clear codes from the vehicle’s Anti-lock Braking System. It also provides the definition of each code to help diagnosing problems within the system that may cause the Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) to turn on. Note: ABS diagnosis function works for OBD2 standard vehicles that is prior to 2020 only and does not support newer car models after 2020.
===
I've wasted too many hours searching on the WWW for reports of somebody successfully linking up to 97 SVT cobra mustang can-bus and diagnosing ABS idiot light. I did ask the vendor to confirm that it works with my car and their general advice says it works with everything from 1996 to 2020. I am leaning toward returning it, still waiting for their answer.
==
My research suggests that my car uses a 3-port Bosch ABS system. No rear wheel traction control so the two back wheels share one port. There are two ABS versions one for the cobra coupe and one for the cobra convertible. The convertible is heavier so its ABS is likely tuned for different vehicle weight (same type of brakes). The 94/95 mustang ABS systems did not network with the mustang ECU. My 97

No new controllers available (only some wheel sensor parts). I found two different used 97 cobra ABS controllers for sale. One from a vendor for $250 but they report that they are sold out. Another vendor has one for $500. That seems a little high for an almost 30 years old used part and I'm cheap. Used ABS controllers from newer models cost more like $50, not $500.

If I determine that the controller is broken, I might try to repair it myself. The go-fast race boys just remove and bypass the ABS system. As long as it doesn't do anything stupid I can live with the idiot light.

I am still searching for evidence of any scanner successfully reading a 97 mustang SVT cobra

JR

PS: My brother who used to amateur race cars semi-seriously, bragged about using (not owning) high end scanners that cost tens of thousands.
 
I just heard back from the seller and they confirm that it does not read ABS brake codes in my car model (97 SVT mustang cobra). I am returning it for a refund.

I wrote a product review noting that it does not work with my car model.

JR
 
I found another even lower cost suggestion. Reportedly the Bosch ABS system has a built in error code mode. It says to short pin 2 (orange-white) wire to ground, and the ABS light will blink when powered up a specified number of times to indicate different faults.

12 - system ok
19 - anti-lock control module
22 - right front valve
24 - left front valve
26 - rear valve
31 - right front ABS sensor continuity fault
32 - right rear ABS sensor continuity fault
33 - left front ABS sensor continuity fault
34 - left rear ABS sensor continuity fault
41 - right front ABS sensor
42 - right rear ABS sensor
43 - left front ABS sensor
44 - left rear ABS sensor
61 - pump motor/pump motor relay fault
63 - voltage supply interruption
69 - vehicle battery voltage less than 10VDC
78 - ABS sensor frequency fault


I can't imagine waiting to count 78 blinks (caused by mismatched size tires)... but I have seen such built in fault reporting before back years ago when I repaired my old neighbors RIP electric mobility scooter.

I will wait until after this cold wave passes. I also need to identify where the ABS module is and the data connector.

JR
 
Thanks, but I'm still waiting for warmer weather.

JR

PS: My new Breville temperature regulated kettle arrived and today was my first use. It's nicer than the models selling for a fraction of that retail price. 🤔
 
We go through water kettles about one per year. We use it a lot from making tea to kick start a pot of soup on the stove to help dissolve baking soda or dry acid for the pool.

I have a line item for it on my yearly budget. 😄
 
We go through water kettles about one per year. We use it a lot from making tea to kick start a pot of soup on the stove to help dissolve baking soda or dry acid for the pool.

I have a line item for it on my yearly budget. 😄
Maybe you should consider a commercial/professional kettle.

The Breville I just purchased better last longer than one year. But I typically make one or two pots of whatever a day.

JR

PS: I notice that the Breville has buttons for 200' and 190', I think my former kettle used 195'
 
What kind drink do you make by the bottles. Is it coffee?
One of my favorite saying is that life is too short to tolerate inferior beverages. ;) For years, decades, I have roasted my own green coffee beans, fresh ground and brewed my own coffee, home brewed my own beer, and during cold months I brew oolong or green tea.

Up until fairly recently I bottled my home brew beer into glass bottles. I shifted to putting my home brew beer in 5 gallon kegs. I have a dedicated small fridge with a beer tap on top that holds two 5 gallon kegs. I should have made this change years ago. It save me a lot of effort and time.

JR
 
may be in that data on the charm site...I pulled this for example but not sure if it's relevant...
Today was warm enough for me to pop the hood and i found the ABS pump and controller assembly on the passenger side front, down by the bottom of the radiator. I didn't start digging through the wiring to find the one wire to ground that makes it self report.

JR
 
My Peltier technology room dehumidifier fan has started making noise again. This cheap toy(?) advertised low noise but the original internal blower fan failed after a few months in service. The common 120x25 mm sized box fan used a rather uncommon voltage 18V. I never found an exact replacement so a few months ago I put a 24V fan in place of the 18V original. The 24V fan will not even run at the low speed quiet setting, at high speed it runs proportionately slower than the original 18V fan. This dehumidifier pulls so little water it is hardly worth the trouble, now that the replacement fan has started getting noisy it is one step closer to the junk pile. It works, but yawn not enough to be useful.

JR
[update] I just looked again and I still can't find a 12025 18V replacement fan. The 24v fan I put in around one year ago won't run at all in low speed but runs slow in high speed. I just leave this toy in my weight machine room, running 24x7. It pulls a little over one pint a week from that room.

Today I saw my first (smaller 8025)18V blower that looked like it was from the same chinese maker so I will keep looking. Sadly this 24V fan running at 18V will probably last forever. ;)

JR
 
I have a new entropy incident developing... The scale I have mounted beneath my beer keg to track how much beer is left in the keg just started reseting itself to zero, as if it lost power. My mains power did not drop out and the scale even had batteries inside that presumably prevent even power outages from resetting it. But alas it has reset itself a handful of times.

I removed the batteries, unplugged and replugged the connections. Zero'd it with the keg off, and replaced the keg so it's good again, for now. We'll see how long it lasts.. It's only about 7 months old...

[Edit] the batteries measured fine (1.6V ea.) so I replaced the batteries and tested unplugging the power to see if the batteries saved the settings (they didn't.... why have batteries?). I reset it and removed the batteries. So far it's been working solid for a few hours. Maybe the connector between the scale and the control head benefitted from being replugged./edit]

[edit2- I think I know why the cheap scale reset when I unplugged the power despite having batteries. The PS is probably unregulated and many MCU applications are cap coupled from the + rail into a reset pin... If they cared they could have designed it to ignore the reset, but after the reboot it probably works adequately from lower battery voltage. /edit2]

JR
 
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