MixBuzz1 Build/Support thread

[Igor]

Hola Igor,
is it right? on the picture, red wire goes to ATK 1, black one is ATK 2
But on "wiring diagram" picture is not same ?

Hey Umit!
The electrons doesn't care what is the color of wire.
Just go with wiring diagram. I can post wiring diagram and help with troubleshooting,
but hey, you have to so some homework as well.
If this diagram is not comprehensive enough, just write, will try to represent it in other way.

Sorry if I am bothering you with lots of email, but I am not getting any
feedback from you and I am wondering if you receive them at all?

I had some very busy days, sorry, now passing on emails etc.

I'm Building MIXBUZZ kit with MATA_HAZE here in Italy, he will send you an email with all the missing components from both our kits.
Would you be so kind to send them all to my address ?

Of course. We will work this out.
If somebody have missing components, please send me the list to email.

ANyway, we have a question regarding the RATIO:
can you confirm that the plug in board will give the compressor 6 ratio settings like on the one in your pictures? 1.5,2,4,6,8,10.

Please check the docs, Control_sidechain:
There are 3 ways to stuff the RATIO board. Default is 1.5-2-4-6-8-10.
Please check the files: front_btm.png
All parts for full ratio option are included, resistors-bag5 of basic kit, the rest (switch, diodes etc) in basic kit as well.

I would like to add the standard compression meter (8027-B Meter from Hairball) to the kit. Can this be done? Specifically,
can I drive BOTH meters at the same time. If not, can I have the G.R. switch to the meter? Thank you, David.

Please download Corel file with front panel stuff, it located with the other documentation for MixBuzz1.
PCB outlines etc are on layer "Centers". You can play with front panel layout, just check everything fits fine.
I sure it is possible to fit small Behringer GR meter at the left side. With some squeezing, 8027
(or Sifam AL19) should fit as well.

 

[Igor]

- Mix  is working but I can't control it with the pot! I move it but nothing change!

I cannot understand the question. I.e. compressed signal is mixed with clean but no control?
Please check the MIX pot wiring, I assume the MIX control is ON.

- Vu LED is working but didn't do the calibration
- VU Gr doesn't work

5-10 min, will add cal proc

The rest is matter of wiring, if the wiring diagram is not clear, lemmie know, will try another way.

 

[Igor]

Meter calibration added to 2nd post of this thread.

 

[piano]

My question has still gone unanswered.

Hello Igor,

I would like to add the compression meter (8027-B Meter from Hairball) to the kit. Can this be done?  Specifically, can I drive BOTH the 8027-B Meter as compression and the LED meters at the same time. See my picture to get an idea.  If not, can I have the G.R. switch to the meter? Thank you, David.

 

[Igor]

My question has still gone unanswered.

Reply #60 on: 2011-01-09, 15:52:37

Please download Corel file with front panel stuff, it located with the other documentation for MixBuzz1.
PCB outlines etc are on layer "Centers". You can play with front panel layout, just check everything fits fine.
I sure it is possible to fit small Behringer GR meter at the left side. With some squeezing, 8027
(or Sifam AL19) should fit as well.

To summarize:
Both analog and LED meters can be connected. Both can fit with some front panel layout squeezing.
Analog meter goes to 4-pin connector METER at the bottom right side of PCB
(+/- meter, +/- VU backlight LED).
This way, analog VU-meter shows gain reduction, and LED meter shows IN/GR/OUT.
It is possible to use 2-pos (on-on) switch for LED meter instead of ON-OFF-ON (3 pos),
this way, LED meter serves for IN/OUT indication and analog meter for GR indication...
Hope, it is clear.

BTW.
To get correct reading from both of'em, RM33 (10k, 1/4W resistor) on LED meter PCB
should be changed to trimpot 10K and need to cut one trace on LED meter PCB.
Or, even easier, cut trace on mother board and put trimpot 2K to analog meter instead.
In other words, to adjust GR meters separately, just add a trimpot and cut trace.
Let me know to post the picture of how-to, if somebody going to make "dual-metered" MixBuzz1.

 

[Winetree]

Please post picture for dual meter Mix Buzz

 

[AW_music]

Hi Igor, have you received  MATA email???

Another question about main trafo:
It's OK to use +/- 18V ???  , or it's better to use +/- 25V  ???

(In the TG build i had to change the +/-25V trafo for a +/-30V trafo, because the regulators were not happy !!)

Thanks

 

[tomcat]

+/- 18V is ok if you have enough VA (see igors answer some posts back). Otherwise the regulators have to do a bigger stepdown which will result in more heat (on my normal SSL i use 18V/25VA and have a idle voltage of 26 volts after the bridge rectifier which puts already some strain on the 7812 for my bypass relais!)

 

[piano]

IGOR:

CAPACITOR ELECTROLITIC LOW ESR in Bag 2
2  4.7...10UF/25..50V  2.5 OR 3.5 MM PITCH, UP TO 8MM DIAM.  C32L, C32R
-Board says 10u 35V --- Caps supplied are 10uf 50V - Is the board wrong and the supplied caps correct?


2  33..68UF/25..35V  2.5 MM PITCH, UP TO 7MM DIAM.  C33, C36
-Board says 47u ---- Caps supplied are 33uf 50V - Is the board wrong and the supplied caps correct


2  330...680UFX25V..35V 3.5 OR 5 MM PITCH, UP TO 10.5MM DIAM  C34R, C35R
-Board says 470u 25V --- Caps supplied are 330uf 25V - Is the board wrong and the supplied caps correct?

What are the mouser numbers for the toroidal and extra items needed I will need to order?


 

 

[zayance]

CAPACITOR ELECTROLITIC LOW ESR in Bag 2
2  4.7...10UF/25..50V  2.5 OR 3.5 MM PITCH, UP TO 8MM DIAM.  C32L, C32R
-Board says 10u 35V --- Caps supplied are 10uf 50V - Is the board wrong and the supplied caps correct?

No problem, if BOM says 10uF and you have 10uF then it's ok, and you can see in the BOM it's written 25...50V it's for 25V to 50V, so you're good.

2  33..68UF/25..35V  2.5 MM PITCH, UP TO 7MM DIAM.  C33, C36
-Board says 47u ---- Caps supplied are 33uf 50V - Is the board wrong and the supplied caps correct

Same rule as above but for the uF range, and if you have more than 35V it's not a problem, more voltage will make the cap last longer in the circuit.

2  330...680UFX25V..35V 3.5 OR 5 MM PITCH, UP TO 10.5MM DIAM  C34R, C35R
-Board says 470u 25V --- Caps supplied are 330uf 25V - Is the board wrong and the supplied caps correct?

I think you got the point now 

What are the mouser numbers for the toroidal and extra items needed I will need to order?

If you add your location to your profile, i will be easier to send you links of what's needed or can work in this project.

 

[piano]

Thank you so much!

I am in East Coast USA for mouser numbers.

 

[zayance]

Thank you so much!

I am in East Coast USA for mouser numbers.

You can add your location in your profile, it's the button right next to search (usefull stuff there too) and so location will be right under your nickname.

What are the mouser numbers for the toroidal and extra items needed I will need to order?

For transfo i think this one will do the job, a 36V CT at 25VA.

http://fr.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Triad-Magnetics/VPT36-690/?qs=wkKrz7WmEgMur335Y%252benyA%3d%3d

For the wiring of the transformer here is a link of a usefull diagram of how to wire Transfos primarys or secondarys.
Be carefull when wiring it, for reference of the color code for primary and secondary, there will be a little sticker around the transfo telling you that, well hopefully, don't get fooled by other colors, the one written on the sticker is the one and only.

http://www.diyfactory.com/data/transformer_connections.gif

For the extra items, well i don't know them, but Mouser website is pretty easy to surf on, i always find what i need, well most of the time, but you'll get better at it don't worry....

PS: Always check PSU first before attempting to connect it to Mother board, so you know all is good with the juice, and PSU is working fine, only then you'll connect to mother board with chips out, and will check votages on each socket pins to see if V+ and V- on each chip is correct.
Most of all the infos are explained on page 1, but maybe you haven't seen it....

 

[briomusic]

Hi Igor,
firstly thanks for this kit, this is such a pleasure to build.

Today I got as far as getting the PSU running, everything seems to be working fine except for the -12Volt terminal.
At this stage the PSU is not connected to the Mainboard, should I even be seeing -12Volt yet? (looks to me like those regulators are on the mainboard?).

Second question, I seem to be missing C29L/R which is a 33pF in the feedback path of the TL072 straight after the control VCA. Can I replace this with 22pF or 47pF? I don't have the exact same value handy.

Last Question, what is the deal with the components labelled 'fb'? What value for R39L/R and R4L/R (these are both in series straight after the VCA)?

(figured this one out - all ferrite bead 0Ohm)

Very last question, how are the VCA replacement boards connected to the main board? just sitting on wires?
Thanks,
Briomusic.

 

[jandoste]

Mix  is working but I can't control it with the pot! I move it but nothing change!

I cannot understand the question. I.e. compressed signal is mixed with clean but no control?
Please check the MIX pot wiring, I assume the MIX control is ON.

Thanks for the reply ! I checked all wires connection and are not wrong. Strange  ??? because  all voltages are right ! 

 

[briomusic]

Hi Igor,
while the build up of the individual sections is very well documented, I am still unclear about how to connect all the PCBs:

On the side of the PCB are the following 4-pin molex connectors:
Bypass (switch and LED) - this goes to the EAO (bypass) switch - correct?
CNB - this is for the leftmost toggle above the meter named 'Mix'?
Link - just guessing here....'Turbo'?
Meter (+/- MTR, +/- LED) - signal and illumination for analog meter, not needed for LED meter??

In the C&B parts bag was another 4pin molex M/F what is this for?

Since writing the above I mananged to get the MixBuzz up and running.  ;D Have jumpered off C&B and S/C Filter for the time being, as I am missing the dual 10k lin pot. The biggest problem, however are the 10 pin dual row connectors. I find it hard to see on the photos how the two terminals are meant to be connected for Sidechain and LED meter connection. This really could do with clearing up in the documentation! Also the dual row connectors that go on the ribbon cable keep breaking - any tricks as to how to close these over the ribbon? Do I need a special tool?



Thanks,
Briomusic

 

[chefducuisine]

Jandoste,

just a thought - did you install any of the jumpers JP2L / JP2R? They are only neccessary if you did NOT built the C&B option.
Same is for JP1L / JP1R. Those are only neccessary if the Sidechain option is not built.

Regards,

Christian

 

[briomusic]

christian, did you build a mixbuzz1? can you clarify orientation of the ribbon cables/dual row connectors? thanks!

btw, if using the jumpers I would advise to also pull out the IC's of that relevant section as it appears a feedback could be created, which probably isn't something the opamps would be enjoying in the longterm.... 

 

[jandoste]

Jandoste,

just a thought - did you install any of the jumpers JP2L / JP2R? They are only neccessary if you did NOT built the C&B option.
Same is for JP1L / JP1R. Those are only neccessary if the Sidechain option is not built.

Regards,

Christian

Thanks Christian
I didn't put any JP1|2! I got a very strange problem

 

[chriss]

Hi Igor and Forum,

since I tried to understand a bit of how these VCA-cards work and the documentation has not that many info on it I tried to reconstruct the schematics. I hope this is o.k. Igor? If not, give me a sign.
You can find them here:
VCA-module with 1 THAT2181
VCA-module with 4 THAT2181
I found the component's numbering quite confusing but tried to keep it synchronus with the boards.
If there are any mistakes, please report them to me.

Igor, the schematics differs in many ways from the THAT2002T-1-module. What version is your module actually based on?

Chris

 

[tomcat]

Also the dual row connectors that go on the ribbon cable keep breaking - any tricks as to how to close these over the ribbon? Do I need a special tool?

Use a small vise.